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Thread: Shop lighting......

  1. #31
    I recently moved into a lifelong dream dedicated shop. Using Ken's info, I designed the lighting program for the general shop and the separate finishing room. My general and electrical contractor folks were, at first speculative of "overdone", but when complete both were impressed with the result and cost effectiveness. I'm a very happy camper. THANKS Ken.

  2. #32
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    Bill,

    Thank Jack Lindsey the retired lighting engineer who wrote the article. All I did was help get the new, updated version published here at SMC. The credit goes to Jack.
    Ken

  3. #33
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    I hate replacing light bulbs. One room in my current shop has 11 recessed lights, groan. Thus I like the idea of LED's. My temporary answer to the issue has been LED task lights:

    TaskLighting2.jpg
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 05-19-2016 at 4:06 PM.

  4. #34
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    Apr 2006
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    Phoenix AZ Area
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    Another thing that hasn't been discussed here is color accuracy. In lighting there is color temp and color accuracy. Most people easily pick out color temp. See the bright white daylight bulbs on some driveways at night and the neighbors have warm incandescent. Less obvious is color accuracy. You've probably noticed how cheap fluorescent bulbs make everything greenish. That's not color temp, it's color accuracy. Incandescent bulbs and sunlight have very consistent intensity across the color spectrum. Cheap fluorescent bulbs and most LEDs do not consistently light all colors.

    I am an avid photographer and color balance is critical to pleasing photos. Super hard to do in reality. The lighting impacts it, the camera has inaccuracies, the computer display, and the printer. Photographers go to great lengths to calibrate and adjust for each step.

    Here is a link to an article, there are many. https://www.cnet.com/news/shining-a-...cri-led-bulbs/

    CRI is one measure of color accuracy but sadly the bulb makers, especially LED can game the test. They add different materials to the LED to change the colors. If you dig deeper you will find that LEDs have output peaks at the colors that are tested for CRI results. there is a movement to move to a new more stringent test. Also, the higher the CRI rating, the lower the efficiency, so accurate color comes at a cost from an energy perspective. http://indiecinemaacademy.com/comple...i-cqs-tm30-15/

    I think color accuracy is important in the shop, especially for finishing. Just today I was spraying a clear (ish) finish on walnut. I am trying to match other furniture. I tinted Endurovar water based poly and in daylight the color is nearly a perfect match. In my shop I have 87 CRI fluorescent bulbs and the same two samples, original and new finish look very different with the new one looking slightly greenish. Unfortunately I'm not sure what lighting my friend will have where the makeup desk is going.

    I have CREE High CRI LEDs by our chairs in our main room. They aren't too bad. Every year or so I try the latest high CRI LEDs for our landscape lighting and all so far look pretty greenish.

    I am building a new shop and I will for sure be putting in the latest high CRI lighting.

    Just found this link too. http://www.accessfixtures.com/color-rendering-index/
    Last edited by Joe Jensen; 04-23-2017 at 12:56 AM.

  5. #35
    I bought 4 sylvania 4100k led bulbs for replacement of bulbs in a 4 bulb troffer. Can't seem to find a wiring diagram. These bulbs have pins on both ends. The salesperson said these bulbs eliminate need for a balast.

  6. #36
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    You just wire one end hot and the other neutral. Tie all the wires at each end together
    Last edited by Jerome Stanek; 03-27-2018 at 6:32 PM.

  7. #37
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    Jim,

    Did you get your bulbs installed?
    Ken

  8. #38
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    Here's the installation information according to Sylvania for their T-8 ballast-free led bulbs http://assets2.sylvania.com/media/bi...de%20(002).pdf .
    Ken

  9. #39
    Couldn't get the Sylvania bulbs to work, so returned them. Picked up some GT-lite 2packs GT-2pk-T8- 3IN1 and wired them with 1 hot wire to one end and 1 neutral wire to the other end and they WORK! Light is pretty similar to the other daylight t-8 fixtures I have, but my idea was to eliminate the ballasts so I could add another layer of insulation without cutting holes over the ballasts.

  10. #40
    I ended up getting several Honeywell-branded 4' LED fixtures shaped like normal shop lights at Sam's Club for $30 each. Love them. The chain drop is actually useful in my space, which has 10' ceilings.

  11. #41
    Nicely written Ken, I think I can use it even now. Thank you

  12. #42
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    I am in the process of moving to a smaller home, as the kids have moved on, and we just need less to maintain.

    The new space is an actual log cabin, made from logs designed to fit together. The inside of the home is all wood paneling. Most of the existing lighting was installed circa 1997. The wife and I are still negotiating on enclosing and expanding some of the “outside” deck areas. One of these areas is slated to be a shop. I am not sure exactly where yet, as the area will serve multiple functions.

    There are obvious challenges in this space, due to solid wood walls and the wood paneling. I recently bought two Sylania 1”, T8 LED light bulbs. They do not work in the existing 4’ T8 florescent light fixture. I believe I am suffering with the same issue the poster above did. There are also T12 fixtures in a garage/temporary shop area and a closet.

    I am wondering if I shoukd swap out the existing T8 & T12 fixtures for ones that can use T8 LEDs? The box the bulbs, I bought, came in says they last 45 years, which if it is true may justify the cost. The box also says they use 12W vs 32W, which I suppose translates to an enrergy saings. I guess the other alternative is track lighting strips that can handle multiple cheaper LED bulbs, which could be directed to specific areas.

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 06-19-2018 at 11:25 AM.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Pegal View Post
    Nicely written Ken, I think I can use it even now. Thank you
    John, the author, Jack Lindsey rewrote the article, not I. Give Jack the credit. I just helped get it published here at SMC. The original article was published in Fine Woodworking magazine.
    Ken

  14. #44
    I bought a box of 25 led T 8 bulbs, which are made to replace the bulbs and ballasts in my 4 bulb fixtures. The directions were to pull out one of the wires of each tombstone, and run hot to one end of the fixture and neutral to the other. All the bulbs work. So far I am about 1/3 of the way to replace all the bulbs in my shop. Hope the change will get rid of the fluorescent buzz on my radio. Last night when I changed out the 7th fixture, just turned it off before starting to remove the bulbs, and they were HOT. Should help with the AC bill when you consider I have 19-4 bulb fixtures heating the shop up.

  15. #45
    Just finished rewiring and installing LED bulbs in my 17th fixture. The shop is bright!. Just 2 fixtures to go.

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