Spoiled for choice - help me prepare for a gloat

[Shaun Mahood]

So Lee Valley is bringing me a pile of tools in a week or so... http://www.leevalley.com/en/home/page.aspx?p=69543&. I'm pretty happy with the tools I have, but there are a lot (especially joinery related) that I have no experience with and no idea what to look for.

I need help choosing what to buy! Here are some specific things I am wondering
- What sizes should I be looking at for tongue and groove planes?
- What are the most useful planes for doing the joinery for drawers?
- What should I be looking at in terms of size for a rabbet plane, and should I be looking skew or not?
- Are there any other planes I should buy? Specifically, I've never used any hollows or rounds, or any
- I have the Veritas carcass (2-3/8" depth of cut) and dovetail saws. What other depths of backsaw should I be looking at?
other sort of molding planes.
- I've got a couple handsaws (26") and am very happy cleaning up and sharpening them. Right now I've got a 4 ppi ripsaw and 11 ppi crosscut, what other sizes (either length or tooth count) should I be looking for to get my stable increased a bit?

I'm not planning on adding power to my shop at any point in the future, so if there's anything I should take advantage of here for that will be useful in the future I would be very happy for the advice. Going to be a great weekend!

[lowell holmes]

Boy, they sure know how to stir the pot.

[Jim Neeley]

Shaun,

To each his own but I like the look of a small half-round bead on the face of a board, where it meets the edge. It is a really simple (half-round) profile to sharpen and, I think, adds a nice discreet accent to a board.

An example of where I like them are along the bottom of a drawer front.

Just my $0.02.. YMMV..

[Shaun Mahood]

Jim, thanks for that. I wouldn't have thought of it.

[Derek Cohen]

T&G sizes? I think that they are more useful in the 1/2" - 3/4" range, more so closer to the 1/2" end. This is my preference anyway for boards that form the back of a cabinet.

See if you can find a skew-bladed filister. That would be good for rebates across the grain. Any wide skew bladed plane is useful across the grain, such as for raised panels.

Molding planes are always handy.

As Jim noted, a couple of beading planes for edges.

Look for a T&G plane that may be used to plough grooves for drawers (one that cuts a 1/4"wide groove that is 1/4" in from the side). You can fine tune it for the depth of cut later.

For starters. I am sure others will chine in.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

- What sizes should I be looking at for tongue and groove planes?

If you want a center tongue, then you want it sized to the work piece. A 1/2" T&G pair will put an off center bead on 3/4" piece.

- What are the most useful planes for doing the joinery for drawers?

If you like to use a shallow rabbet on your tail board when dovetailing, then a small rabbet plane is handy. Something about the same width as your usual pin board and a skew blade is desirable.

- What should I be looking at in terms of size for a rabbet plane, and should I be looking skew or not?

See above and also consider a 2" rebate plane. It can be used to make smaller rabbets.

- Are there any other planes I should buy? Specifically, I've never used any hollows or rounds, or any

I like having a hollow soled plane for rounding edges. My most used one is about 5/8". I also have one that is about 1-1/2" that comes in handy on bigger pieces. Having a few H&Rs is fun for making simple molding shapes. Beading and fluting planes can also add a nice touch to projects.

- I have the Veritas carcass (2-3/8" depth of cut) and dovetail saws. What other depths of backsaw should I be looking at?
other sort of molding planes.

It seems like you may have the depth covered. You might think about lengths.

- I've got a couple handsaws (26") and am very happy cleaning up and sharpening them. Right now I've got a 4 ppi ripsaw
and 11 ppi crosscut, what other sizes (either length or tooth count) should I be looking for to get my stable increased a bit?

Depending on your needs and strength, you might want to consider Rip saws in the 6, 8 and 10 ppi. For cross cut you have an 11, so maybe a 7 and 9 ppi. One ppi is not that much difference, but if you end up with a lot of saws, you can start experimenting with rake and fleam.

My 4 ppi rip saw has taught me a few things. For that kind of tooth size a heavier saw plate is better. They also wear a person, at least of my age, down a bit quicker without cutting that much faster than a 6 ppi saw.

The lighter the stock, the higher the tooth count is my preference. ymmv.

jtk