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Thread: My furnace died last night.

  1. #1

    My furnace died last night.

    I posted a question a couple months ago about using a back up heat source in case the power goes out to keep the water in my lasers from freezing. Last night the pressure switch in my furnace quit working so the building went without heat all night. Luckily it was warm last night (only got to about 20F) so it didn't get below freezing in the building. Does anyone know of a back up heat source that can be set to a thermostat to kick in around 50 degrees but not require electric to run? I am thinking of a kerosene heater with a battery powered ignition.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  2. #2
    How about antifreeze in your water?
    Shenhui 1280 100W RECI

  3. #3
    I am running yags which require deionized water so antifreeze is out of the question (it may work for water cooled co2's)

    I would like to come up with a system that could light itself unattended and have a 3 day supply of fuel incase for any reason my furnace can not run (could be because of electric outage, mechanical problem or a very unlikely case of a natural gas outage)
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Victor, NY
    Posts
    1,288
    Hi Joe;
    Not sure what your budget is but you can get a small (8KW) natural gas powered generator for under $2k plus a couple hundred more for autosense/switch electronic.
    Best Regards,
    George
    Laserarts

  5. #5
    George, That is quite a bit over my budget, I would like to keep it under $500. Although your idea wouldn't have helped last night because the electric didn't go out it was a mechanical problem in the furnace.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Gig Harbor, WA
    Posts
    1,157
    You are asking a lot of a system to sense temp, start a heater and be of substance to last over 72 hours.... why not just get an alarm that calls you and says.... "Hey the temp is dropping below 45*"

    http://freezealarms.com/
    Mark
    In the Great Northwest!

    Trotec Speedy C25, Newing-Hall 350 (AMC I & HPGL), NH-CG-30 (Carbide Cutter Sharpener)
    Sawgrass 400 Gel Ink Printer, CS5, 5/9/x6 CorelDraw

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Sipes View Post
    You are asking a lot of a system to sense temp, start a heater and be of substance to last over 72 hours.... why not just get an alarm that calls you and says.... "Hey the temp is dropping below 45*"

    http://freezealarms.com/
    Never heard of them, that might be the way to go.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Victor, NY
    Posts
    1,288
    Joe;
    I think you have to back off and look at the big picture. I estimate you have at least $50 K of laser equipment-probably more. Do you want a system that just alerts you or automatically starts backup services because you can't be there-be it a mechanical problem with the furnace or an electrical outage or whatever? easy to connect a temperature sensor to a relay to start an electric space heater if thats all you are worried about.
    Best Regards,
    George
    Laserarts
    *twin 80 watt Shenhui 1280
    *60 watt Laserpro Mercury -42ips
    *(2) 30 watt Laserpro Venus-42 ips
    *whole bunch of woodworking/metalworking machines
    *128 screwdrivers (all needed)
    *wonderful wife (1st) of 53 years who allows me to collect screwdrivers

  9. #9
    George,

    I think that the alarm may be the way to go because it alerts me to a problem whereas with any other system if the furnace for any reason stops working on a Friday night I won't know about it until Monday morning. And another problem with a back up generator, it wouldn't have done anything last night because it was a problem with the furnace rather than an electric outage.

    I think that the alarm is a good way to go or possibly a direct vent propane heater with a 20 lb tank and thermostat if I can find one that uses a battery for ignition (kind of like the old kero heaters) rather than a pilot light.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Gig Harbor, WA
    Posts
    1,157
    If you read his spec....it can't be 110v......... Depends on whether you are heating just a pipe or the whole room.... Heatline.com might work 12 v dc car batteries with a thermostat...... not sure how much of the laser needs to be heated........and for how long.....
    Mark
    In the Great Northwest!

    Trotec Speedy C25, Newing-Hall 350 (AMC I & HPGL), NH-CG-30 (Carbide Cutter Sharpener)
    Sawgrass 400 Gel Ink Printer, CS5, 5/9/x6 CorelDraw

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Hillmann View Post
    Does anyone know of a back up heat source that can be set to a thermostat to kick in around 50 degrees but not require electric to run?
    You can get a direct vent natural gas or propane wall furnace with millivolt thermostat from Grainger for about $600-$700. Item ID # 1RD25 or #e588.
    No electricity required unless you want to add the optional blower.
    They have a sealed combustion chamber as an added benefit.
    Even a 15,000 btuh one will keep a medium shop above freezing.
    Dennis

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Sipes View Post
    If you read his spec....it can't be 110v......... Depends on whether you are heating just a pipe or the whole room.... Heatline.com might work 12 v dc car batteries with a thermostat...... not sure how much of the laser needs to be heated........and for how long.....
    The whole shop, there are two lasers and one of them has its chiller in the basement and the laser it self upstairs.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Rech View Post
    You can get a direct vent natural gas or propane wall furnace with millivolt thermostat from Grainger for about $600-$700. Item ID # 1RD25 or #e588.
    No electricity required unless you want to add the optional blower.
    They have a sealed combustion chamber as an added benefit.
    Even a 15,000 btuh one will keep a medium shop above freezing.
    Dennis
    Does that light itself from a battery ignition or does it have a pilot light?
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Gig Harbor, WA
    Posts
    1,157
    Mark
    In the Great Northwest!

    Trotec Speedy C25, Newing-Hall 350 (AMC I & HPGL), NH-CG-30 (Carbide Cutter Sharpener)
    Sawgrass 400 Gel Ink Printer, CS5, 5/9/x6 CorelDraw

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Upper East TN, in the mtns
    Posts
    140
    We have three ventless LP wall heaters which requires no electricity. The one at our shop/showroom has an electric blower, but it will still heat without power. They all have pilot lights (which you may not want?). They're not expensive (but the gas to run it can be!) and they can be set very low. When we are away from home in the winter, we will set it around 45 or 50, and if our electric heat pump doesn't work, we know the wall units will keep the pipes from freezing.

    Google: infrared plaque wall heater

    Some allow you to adjust how many plaques to heat up, as well as setting the temperature on the thermostat. Our new one only allows for all the plaques to burn. I asked our gas company about the blue flame, and he didn't recommend it because it causes more moisture/condensation on the glass. We leave our pilot light on when it's cold. I don't think it uses much gas.

    My inlaws had a kerosene heater unattended, and it ran out of fuel and caused black sooty smoke everywhere.
    ULS X-660 CO2 50 watt (July 2008), Corel X7, Photograv, GX 7000 for dye sub, Graphtec vinyl plotter, Rayzist Sandcarving system (Nov 2018), JPT MOPA M6 30 watt Fiber Laser (May 2019)

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