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Thread: DIY Router Table Fence with Micro-Adjust and Dust Collection

  1. #16
    Thanks Ole. All I've done for the better part of a year and a half is work on the shop, but it's only temporary. I figure if I do everything right the first time, then I won't ever have to upgrade and I'll have a LONG time to build furniture.

  2. #17
    IMG_2738.jpgIMG_2739.jpgIMG_2740.jpgI prefer aone piece solid fence. So I used 2”x3” box aluminum with a vacuum chamberaround the bit. Put a sub fence on that with 6 short T-tracks segments. Thatway I always have a straight line, strong no flex fence. I put 2” angle on theback of the box too for strength. On thefront of the sub fence I mount a left and right split fence. I used a 10”machine way as my forward & aft micro (.001) adjustment. My own invention was to use a bar set parallelto the bit and put the left fence on top of the right fence. That way I can usethe router table as a jointer and also cut to width at the same time by movingthe fence back. The bar locks at the table edge and via a slot, bolts to myhome made plate. I use a straight ¾ bit for jointing. I did not use any slot inthe table because I don’t want to weaken it. I preferred a free floatingfeather board setup, plus I can use it for other things too, like on my saw, drill oretc. All indexing is done off the fence not a sloppy t-track that may not bethe right distance from the fence for what I’m doing. I made everything exceptthe machine ways and the t-track. 9" of range on the fence. The fence glides on 6 nylon pads on the bottom of the box so there is little friction and no maring of the table top.

  3. #18
    Tim, that's one heavy-duty fence! Looks good.

    I've been trying out mine with some raised panels and mortise & tenon joints. So far it's working great! The dust collection couldn't be better and the micro-adjust on the fence is working perfectly. So far so good

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