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Thread: help with tool path window

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    help with tool path window

    I need some help with the tool path window. What I want know is when I load gcode and goes into the tool path window, how do I know were this picture is in relation to the material?, say the middle, left or the right. And how do I change this position? Also how do I know how deep the engraving will be? And how do I change this depth? Thanks Dom
    Last edited by maria galligan; 01-12-2012 at 5:30 AM.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by maria galligan View Post
    I need some help with the tool path window. What I want know is when I load gcode and goes into the tool path window, how do I know were this picture is in relation to the material?, say the middle, left or the right.
    Just by looking at the toolpath, you don't. When g-code is loaded, the toolpath zoom to a position where it can display both the g-code file and the current tool position.

    When you create you g-code in a CAM program, you define where the origin (X0 Y0) is. Then, in Mach3, you zero the X and Y axis at the same location of your part that you set in your CAM program. THis can be done several different ways. Some use probes to locate the stock. Some use laser pointers to jog the tool into position.
    Personally, I use home switches to zero my machine, and always place my parts in the same location, using stops.


    Also how do I know how deep the engraving will be? And how do I change this depth?
    Depth of cut is also set in your CAM program. There is no easy way to tell how deep something will cut without reading through the g-code, which can be very tedious.

    If the depth is the same throughout the program, you can open it in notepad and use find and replace to edit it.


    The program limits DRO's on Mach3's Toolpath page will give you the size of the part, and the -Z limit will tell you the maximum depth of cut. But it won't tell you if you have cuts at different depths.
    Gerry

    JointCAM

  3. #3
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    What design software are you using?
    Are you using Mach3 or WinCnc?
    Hardware:
    CAMaster 508 ATC + Recoil
    2013 Trotec Speedy 100, 60 watt, rotary attachment, vector grid.
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    Mick Martin Woodworking

  4. #4
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    RTM & watch the video tutorials, understand what the controller does and how it functions - many if not all of your questions will be answered. You must walk before you run.

    http://www.machsupport.com/videos/
    oops ....1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 - yup all there, whew!

  5. #5
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    Dec 2011
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    Brisbane Qld Australia
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    Hi I use Mach3 and I have not got any design software yet was just getting the road runner gcode and trying to figure out the system with that. I have watched the videos but could not understand how to do these things, have watched them again and again. But if it is easier to do things in a design software I will buy one. What I need is a simple step by step guide from opening gcode to starting the cut with all the steps involved in the process. My machine does not have home switches, does that make it easier or harder? All I know is it is a 3020 machine I got off ebay from a local seller ok.

  6. #6
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    It has to have some type of home switch, else any time you went to the edge the motors would try to drive the gantry past the edge... never a good thing.
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

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  7. #7
    Many people don't have home switches, so you can get by without them, but they can make things easier, and definitely safer. A workaround is to jog the machine to the lower left corner (-X and -Y direction) as far as you can. Then click the ref all button. This will set the "Home" position at that spot. Some people jog right into the hard stops ans use that for their home position, so that it's repeatable. Be careful, as you might damage your machine if it has enough power.

    Design (CAM) software is not going to help you with pre existing g-code. The only thing that will help you is knowledge of g-code, and cnc operation. If you want to run the roadrunner, do this:

    Load the roadrunner file, then go to the Toolpath screen, and look at the program limits.
    The left column is the minimum, and the right column is the maximum.
    X and Y minimums are zero. This means that neither axis will go to a negative position during the program. The X axis max is ~7.7, and the Y max is 6.4.

    So during the program, the X axis will always be between 0 and 7.7, and the Y will always be between 0 and 6.4.

    Now, if you look at the Z min, you'll see it's at -0.1, which is the deepest that it will cut. In the roadrunner file, it happens to be the same depth throughout, but if there were multiple depths, the Z min Limit will only tell you the deepest cut.

    Now, when you place your part on the machine, you need to zero the tool in relation to the part. You jog the machine so the tool is centered over the lower left corner, and zero the X and Y axis, by clicking the Zero X and Zero Y buttons next to the DRO's. (You should be on the Program Run screen)

    You now need to zero your Z axis. Normally Z=0 is set to the top of your part. This is the case with the roadrunner. So what you do is set your jog speed very slow, and jog the Z axis down until the Z just touches the part. Press the Zero Z button to zero the Z axis, then jog up a safe distance.

    You are now ready to run the file.
    Gerry

    JointCAM

  8. #8
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    Brisbane Qld Australia
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    Thanks for this advice I will go and have another play with the machine and see what I can figure out ok. Maria

  9. #9
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    Dec 2011
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    Brisbane Qld Australia
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    Please forgive me if this sounds stupid but once I have referenced thex and y in the lower left corner do I, will I have do this again? Or once it is done does the machine remember that home position?
    Now another question about clamps. The clamps that came with this 3020 machine are not very good. What are good clamps to use?
    Thanks Maria

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Watch the Mach videos again. Then play around in Mach and try what you just watched. Then go back and watch the video again. Once you get over the initial learning hump,it will get easier.Practice makes perfect.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Brisbane Qld Australia
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    I have already watched those videos again and agian and they didn't answer my questions. That's why I came here and asked. Hopefully with Gerry's thread in hand I have this thing worked out, no gurantee because I had watched the27min video on homeing the other day and all it did was confuse me and the manual is not much help either, I don't understand it, it's too technical for me. Us dummies need a step by step guide. So if anyone knows of one Ill use it.
    Thanks Maria

  12. #12
    Seems to me what you need to do is to hire someone in your area to take you step by step through it. Its going to be hard to get a step by step off the web as every machine and software is different.

    In my last book, I did a step by step on the operation of the machine, but it only applies to the KRMx01 and the software I used. When I finish with my new book project, I plan on doing a step by step through my work flow. But again its only going to apply to my machines and the software I use.

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