Ldd

[Ken Hill]

Ive seen Mr Reed and others discuss the LDD soaking method, but cant seem to nail down which LDD to buy. Im an hour + from the Costco/Sams so I need to see if something the Wally world carries will work.

I am using the DNA soak and Anchorseal methods with success, but want to make sure im not missing out on the LDD method haha!

Any help is much appreciated!

[Roger Chandler]

Ken,

I have read that the Kirkland brand from costco works best............maybe it was because to the person who wrote it that it was the cheapest for them....................,most likely some of your better brands would work also.

[Ken Hill]

So basically any LDD? What mix or concentration seems to be the go to formula?

[Roger Chandler]

I have never used the method personally..........however, I did read a paper on it about a year ago............I think it said 50/50 ratio..............that is from memory, so your mileage may vary on this..............try it and see if the drying gets good results. I think you have to soak it for a few days to get complete penetration in the wood fibers.

Maybe someone else on this forum will chime in that has used the LDD method of preventing cracking in wood turnings.

[Todd Bin]

Ok, can someone help me out here. I know the DNA method and the boiling method and the anchorseal method but what the heck is LDD?

Thanks,
Todd

[Steve Braman]

For some reason I was under the impression that liquid dish detergent made the second cutting and sanding easier but did not decrease drying times. Please advise if this is the case it not.

[Peter Elliott]

Here is a wealth of articles:

http://www.ronkent.com/oaq.php
You'll see the Google link to a ton of articles at the top of the page

http://www.ronkent.com/techniques.php

[Todd Bin]

Steve, Thanks for spelling it out for me. The link posted by Peter doesn't seem to work. Not sure if this is a moderator thing. So you soak the wood in pure LDD or diluted with water? I can see how the LDD would help remove the free water from the wood blank and rapidly reduce its weight but I am not sure if it would get the bound water out of the wood cells. I will try to find some articles.

~Todd

[Roger Chandler]

Steve, Thanks for spelling it out for me. The link posted by Peter doesn't seem to work. Not sure if this is a moderator thing. So you soak the wood in pure LDD or diluted with water? I can see how the LDD would help remove the free water from the wood blank and rapidly reduce its weight but I am not sure if it would get the bound water out of the wood cells. I will try to find some articles.

~Todd

Todd,

You must dilute the dish detergent with water.........and let soak at least a couple of days from my understanding.

Okay, in the link above, Ron Kent sometimes soaks as little as half a day, and is able to turn to finish the same day, and says he has good luck with none cracking.........he uses the Kirkland brand from Costco............must be something about that mixture that makes it work good!

[Reed Gray]

I use it a lot. 50/50 mix of soap and water. Soak for 24 hours. Rinse off sludge, then air dry for a few minutes before sealing or wrapping. I turn green to final thickness. The LDD and DNA soaks do nothing measurable or observable to drying times, stability, or crack control. DNA seems to harden the wood. LDD makes it easier to sand out. The soap will pull some color from the woods, especially some thing like Black Walnut, which can color what ever goes in next. I have never tried it on twice turned bowls, and can't remember ever twice turning a bowl, so don't know what it does to them. The colored soaps can color the wood. Any fragrance will evaporate out in a day or three.

robo hippy

robo hippy