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Thread: Solvent for Formby's

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Solvent for Formby's

    OK you finishing experts, I have a question for you.

    I like to use Formby's Tung Oil finish as a first coat before I finish with WOP. It seems to seal the wood better than starting with WOP, which seems to want to soak in a lot before it builds up.

    My dilemma. I have a can which is still about half full, but it is getting thick and I would like to thin it a bit so I can keep using it.

    What solvent can I use to thin it out a bit? Can I use regular paint thinner (mineral spirits)? Or do I need to use a laquer thinner or other solvent?

    What do you suggest?
    Quando Omni Flunkus - Moritatem!

  2. #2
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    I'm not real familiar with Formby's but I'd think mineral spirits would help you out. But, first, read the back of the can and see what it says to use to clean it up with. That might be the ticket.

  3. #3
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    Chris- I use a slightly thinned lacquer for a sealer before final WOP finish, and suggest it would be a much easier and faster method for your consideration.

  4. #4
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    I've use the Tung Oil a lot and would think it is thinned with mineral spirits. I would suggest mixing up a sample and trying it on a piece of scrap.
    Member Illiana Woodturners

  5. #5
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    Formby' is primarily Varnish and Tung Oil. Either Turpentine or Mineral Spirits will work.

    Personally I think you would have better luck with Shellac as a base for the WOP. You can use multiple coats of Formby's by itself as a final finish. Just keep adding coats until you get the gloss you want. Be aware that over time it will get more yellow.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Beaver View Post
    Formby' is primarily Varnish and Tung Oil. Either Turpentine or Mineral Spirits will work.

    Personally I think you would have better luck with Shellac as a base for the WOP. You can use multiple coats of Formby's by itself as a final finish. Just keep adding coats until you get the gloss you want. Be aware that over time it will get more yellow.
    After some experimentation, here is the routine I have settled into:
    1- flood with shellac until saturated and sealed
    2 - steel wool (between all coats)
    3 - 1 coat Formby's tung oil finish. (can use WOP but it takes 2-3 coats to achieve the same results)
    4 - WOP. It only takes a coat or two if used after the Formby's.

    This seems to work well, even on thirsty woods like Cedar (Juniper). I have yet to try it on Sycamore, which is like trying to seal and finish cork! That is my next test.

    Thank you all for your info and advise. I will try the mineral spirits and see if I can save the last half of the can of Formby's.
    Quando Omni Flunkus - Moritatem!

  7. #7
    Chris, my advice is to get rid of the can you have. Once the coagulation starts (polymerization) thinning is not really doing what you think. The finish is already starting to set up, and you are just thinning the mix of microscopic lumps of polymerized finish. Eventually, you are going to get a coat of finish the remains gummy. Not worth it!

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