Screws stuck on D-8 rip saw

[Mark Baldwin III]

I have a D-8 in need of rehab. One issue with it is that a couple of the screws are frozen into the nuts. They just spin in the handle. Best I can tell is that this is a 1940's era saw, based on the medallion. I have thought about drilling them, but thought I'd ask here before I did anything like that. Plus, if I did that, I'd have to hunt down some new screws and nuts.

[Dan Andrews]

Once the nuts have spun, I don't think there is a way to get them apart without leaving some marks on the nuts, wood or both.
What I would do with a saw that is a good user, but not valuable as a collector saw is to apply a little PB Blaster rust penetrant around each nut on both sides. I would do this once or twice per day for 3 days. Then lay the saw on a flat hard surface and rap either end of the saw nut firmly with a hammer 4 or 5 times. This should break the rust loose if you are ever going to. Now you still don't have a way of holding the smooth side of the nut from turning so if possible use a metal working cut off wheel of about 3" diameter ( I think a dremel tool would work but be slow going) and cut a slot in each smooth head. Now with two screwdrivers you should be able to get the nuts apart.

You will stain the wood a little with PB Blaster and you have altered the nuts, but if you must remove the handle, I can't think of a better and damaging way to do it. Which brings up the question, must you handle off? Unless the handle is loose on the blade I would do all refinishing, cleaning and even wood repair with the handle on the saw if the nuts had already spun.

If you don't already have a wide, but thin tip screwdriver, grind one down for a precise fit in the screw slots, or you will have a new problem with stripped slots.

[Chris Griggs]

This works fantastically well. http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/unloc...en-sawnut.html

[Jim Paulson]

Thanks Mark for the post. Chris the link you provided was great too.

My approach recently was to wedge a small slotted screw driver under the bolt head so it couldn't turn. There was some minor denting on the handle around the saw bolt, but I easily repaired it. The saw bolt was recovered and can used again.

Food for thought,
Jim

[Joshua Byrd]

I've held the smooth head of the bolt in place by laying a piece of coarse-grit sandpaper on the bench and pressing or clamping the saw handle against that. Maker sure that the offending bolt is atop the sandpaper, and apply as much force to it as you're able while you unscrew the nut.

[Acharya Kumarswami]

I use a wooden screw clamp for this as it is a common problem. I Use the 6" size old fashioned kind, and in one of the jaws I have drilled a hole just a bit larger than the head of the saw screws. I locate this modified jaw over the head of the screw head. I locate the opposite jaw over the other side of the screw set, making sure it is centered on the head. Tighten securely an insert the screwdriver in the hole in the jaw and unscrew the screw. This method causes no damage to the screws or the handle. Plus modifying a screw clamp doesn't really dissallow its use for other purposes. Marv Werner told me about this technique. Any chip-out around the screws hole is unsightly and virtually impossible to undo. Sanding the handle to remove it is not such a good option, as it will make the grip thinner and spoil the shape. If you work a lot on saws, it is also worthwhile to get a proper saw screwdriver. such as those sold by Lie-Nielsen. The wide blade of correct thickness prevents potential damage to the slot caused by using ordinary screwdrivers.

[Mike Allen1010]

If the saw isn't especially collectible and I'm going to refinish the handle anyway, my quick fix is PB blaster on the rusted nut and apply a few drops of liquid superglue around the head of the bolt. After it dries it usually provides enough friction to allow you to break the saw nut loose.

A quick tap with a center punch from the other side usually fractures the superglue and pushes the Sawbolt out with minimal damage to the surrounding wood.

[Jeff L Miller]

Another vote for the wooden screw clamp. You may be able to offset the clamp enough to hold the stud tight against the wooden handle while leaving room for the screwdriver to work on the stuck screw side. Kroil works wonders on rusted things as well.

Jeff

[ray hampton]

why not use super glue and glue a bolt to the saw handle bolt to hold the saw bolt, heat will separate the two bolts

[Jim Matthews]

Have you tried this? It sounds simple - but I have a doubt about the adhesive shearing under the force of turning.

In this case, you would need to do this on both sides, as the works are spinning.

[Mark Baldwin III]

Time to drill some holes! I'll let you know how it goes.

[ray hampton]

Jim, I did not try the idea ,just repeating a hint that I read somewhere

[Mark Baldwin III]

Thanks for the tips, everyone. The clamp idea worked out great. One was stuck really bad, so I put a piece of sandpaper between the screw and the clamp, and that gave me enough grip. It looks like at least two of them were cross threaded and are now junk, so I'll have to replace them.

[ray hampton]

I am glad that you were able to remove the screws , I have been in this fix untold times and had to use clamps with other tools, one problem with the clamp is the jaws, place one jaw on the bolt head and the other jaw are too close to the nut, a clamp with two jaws on one side would improve the access to the nut or screw head