Waterlox Questions

[Jeff Paxton]

I recently turned a pretty large Box Elder vase and an article in Woodturning Design recommended Waterlox as the finish to produce a nice mirror finish. I have never used it before so I was wondering some things.

1. Will it better maintain the white of the wood or turn it more yellow like WOP tends to do?

2. The Waterlox website states that if using Waterlox as a wipe-on finish, use only the original sealer/finish which is not a high gloss finish. Can the high or semi gloss be thinned and used as a wipe-on?

3. Should I wipe it on or brush it on?

4. What should be done between coats?

5. It really seems expensive for such a short shelf life, but I want the best possible finish, but was wondering if there were any other comparable products that work as well?

6. Anything else I need to know or suggestions?

Thanks,

Jeff

[Mark Levitski]

Jeff, you'll like Waterlox, but if you want to try a comparable product, try MinWax Antique Oil in the red can. It seems to have a better shelf life than WL. Starts drying quickly upon application (not a s fast as shellac).

Never used WOP, but Waterlox colors the wood a bit, but not overly yellow even over time. Most oil varnishes will do that, more or less depending on the resin mostly.

The Original formula can be applied in more coats to get a more glossy finish. I have always used it for a less shiny one.

Can wipe or brush. If you have a bark edge, then a small brush helps.

No need for anything between coats if you go light, but light 320 or 400 grit sanding won't hurt if the coat is fully dry.

I'd suggest reposting on the the Creek's finishing forum. There are a lot of more experienced people there to answer your questions.

Mark

[Dennis Ford]

Any of the oil based finishes will add an amber hue to light colored wood. I prefer lacquer for white woods.
The water based finishes usually have the least affect on color, someone here will likely suggest a good water based finish.

[David Gilbert]

I've used Waterlox on my flat board projects but not on turnings. My go to finish is Minwax Antique Oil (MAO). It is easily applied and wiped off before it sets up. Once I have a nice finish (3-4 coats) I go back three sanding grits (280, 320 and 400 if I had sanded up to 400) and resand the entire piece and apply a last coat (and wipe it off too).

My response here is in regard to points 5 and 6.

Both Waterlox and MAO (as well as all the other hardening oils) react with oxygen to polymerize. This is great when it happens on your finished object but not so good when it hardens in the container. My experience is that finishing a bowl or most turned objects doesn't take very much of a varnish or oil so in order to preserve the remaining material you need to remove the oxygen from the can. There are a couple of methods. I have seen folks who simply squeeze the air out of the can. Others will transfer the finish to a glass bottle and then pull a vacuum on the bottle. I tried this with a bit of success until the vacuum developed a leak and let the air back in and polymerized the finish.

My approach is to transfer a small amount to a small bottle and work from that. I then use bloxygen or a wine preserver gas (argon) to push out the air. Every time I open either container I always spray in the argon to push out the air when I put the cap back on. I am able to keep a can of MAO for several months until it is used up and my working container easily lasts for a week or so. Plus if the small container polymerizes, it's not a big deal.

Cheers,
David

[robert baccus]

As Dennis relates, an oil will pop color but gloss comes really hard if at all. He and i were recently chatting and i was bragging on the results of a new Mohawk pre-cat. laquer. it is colorless(which i left out) and 2 "double coats" leaves a good buffable finish. this is over 2 coats of heavy sanding sealer which sands like chalk. takes 2-3 hours on a dry day. PS. how's the fishing out there Dennis