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Thread: Deck Design Discussion

  1. #31
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    Here is a very crude drawing on how I envision the pergola over the deck. It will be supported by 4x4s in the corners of the planter boxes. There will be 2x6 beams between these posts. Maybe some tounge and groove jointery? Then I will lay the 2x4 or 2x6 stringers on top of the beams (lap joints?) extending on both sides of the rail.

    Dan
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    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  2. #32
    Alright, Dan. I see what you're up to. I'll try drawing that out. What about that lower right corner of the pergola in your drawing> Do you want that to be open as you've drawn it or do you want the pergola to continue over that area as well?

  3. #33
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    It would be nice to cover that area as well. It will be interesting to figure out how to do the woodworking to make that possible. Maybe put the stringers at a 45?

    Would it be easier construction wise to do it this way? It will definately provide more shade.

    Dan
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    Last edited by Dan Mages; 03-08-2005 at 5:22 PM.
    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  4. #34
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    Dan,
    Have you given any consideration to some type of sun screen on the west side? When we built our house we had some choice in lots, and chose one facing west so we could use our deck int the summer. Some friends have a deck that is almost useless because of the afternoon/evening sun.

    Mark

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Stutz
    Dan,
    Have you given any consideration to some type of sun screen on the west side? When we built our house we had some choice in lots, and chose one facing west so we could use our deck int the summer. Some friends have a deck that is almost useless because of the afternoon/evening sun.

    Mark
    Mark.

    Good point. I am planning a pergola over the western and southern side to provide some shade. There is also a large silver maple in the back yard that will provide some shade.

    Dan
    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  6. #36
    Rails need work, yet. How's this pergola?
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  7. #37
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    That is absolutely perfect!!! That is good enough for my needs for the politburo and for this discussion. Thanks for you assistance with the drawing.

    Dan
    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  8. #38
    Glad to help, Dan.

    Do you want other views of this version? Or shall I delete it?

  9. #39
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    Dan,

    Looks like a great plan so far. I have just one teeny suggestion:

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Mages
    The piers will need to be 40 or 48" below grade, according to local code. This is the one part of the job that I will contract out.
    Any chance that instead of digging posts you could dig out the entire area and put in a perimeter foundation?

    16' x 16' would make a nice little shop addition...
    ---------------------------------------
    James Krenov says that "the craftsman lives in a
    condition where the size of his public is almost in
    inverse proportion to the quality of his work."
    (James Krenov, A Cabinetmaker's Notebook, 1976.)

    I guess my public must be pretty huge then.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom LaRussa
    Dan,

    Looks like a great plan so far. I have just one teeny suggestion:


    Any chance that instead of digging posts you could dig out the entire area and put in a perimeter foundation?

    16' x 16' would make a nice little shop addition...
    VERY TEMPTING!!! But I am not sure if that will be in my budget

    Dave, can you also give me a birdseye view of the deck? I think those two will be good for the politburo.

    Dan
    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  11. #41
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    Now that the general design is settled, I want to discuss the technical details. I am a firm believer in the "code plus" construction mentality, bulding beyond what code will require. Here are my considerations.

    1. I agree with Jim, 6x6 posts add more stability and strength to the deck. They will be 3 across and at 8' and 15' ft intervals.

    2. I will use 2x10 ledger and joists. 2x8 will do just fine. but again, I am going beyond code requirements.

    3. I will use 2x12 beams between the posts. The posts will be notched to support the beams. Ditto on the oversizing.

    4. I am considering stainless bolts and hangers. This will help prevent oxidation with the ACQ lumber that I will be using.

    5. The joists will be spaced 12" apart. This will require 4 additional joists. I figure this will add less than $100 to the cost of the deck. A small cost for additional strength.

    Any comments on these decisions?

    Dan
    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  12. #42
    Here you go. Last one unless you tell me otherwise. I'll plan to delete this model and the 2D images Friday morning unless you need something more from it. Have fun building.
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  13. #43
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    Thanks again for the work on this. What program do you use for this? would it be possible to send me a copy of the file with the design?

    Regards,

    dan
    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  14. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Mages
    Now that the general design is settled, I want to discuss the technical details. I am a firm believer in the "code plus" construction mentality, bulding beyond what code will require. Here are my considerations.

    1. I agree with Jim, 6x6 posts add more stability and strength to the deck. They will be 3 across and at 8' and 15' ft intervals.

    2. I will use 2x10 ledger and joists. 2x8 will do just fine. but again, I am going beyond code requirements.

    3. I will use 2x12 beams between the posts. The posts will be notched to support the beams. Ditto on the oversizing.

    4. I am considering stainless bolts and hangers. This will help prevent oxidation with the ACQ lumber that I will be using.

    5. The joists will be spaced 12" apart. This will require 4 additional joists. I figure this will add less than $100 to the cost of the deck. A small cost for additional strength.

    Any comments on these decisions?

    Dan
    You can always use it as a tornado shelter.

    Bob
    Spinning is good on a lathe, not good in a Miata.

  15. #45
    Dan, I drew it with SketchUp. If you want the SketchUp file, I can e-mail it to you. Send me an e-mail so I get your address. Even if you don't have SketchUp now, you might get it later and then you could use this file.

    You could also get the free SketchUp viewer and then use it to look at the model. That would let you orbit around the model but wouldn't let you edit.
    Last edited by Dave Richards; 03-10-2005 at 9:41 AM.

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