Wood to Corian: T-88, Gorilla, or CA?

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have to glue small wood blocks to the underside of Corian countertop.......dishwasher installation brackets broke, and I need the blocks to receive screws through the remaining bracket sections.

The adhesives shelf shows T-88, Gorilla Glue, and CA Thin-Med-Thick.

I'd just as soon use something I already have on-hand........a certain amount of foot-tapping, "The Look", and pressure on me at the moment. Overnight cure not a problem.

[Jamie Buxton]

T-88. It'll be stronger on Corian than those others choices.

[Kent A Bathurst]

That was my thinking, but I have never fooled with Corian before, so figgered I'd best ask around......thanks

[Bill White]

Not familiar with T-88. I'd use a two part epoxy.
Bill

[Kent A Bathurst]

Bingo - that's what T-88 is. System Three stuff - not the fast set, tho...........sorry for the short-hand.

[Keith Outten]

Silicone adhesive is your best bet. This is what counter top shops use to adhere wooden supports under the tops they install and it is recommended in the Dupont Corian Installers manual.
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[Larry Edgerton]

I keep Kangaroo glue around for anything synthetic. Better bond than silicone for the situation that you are facing. It was formulated for Melamine but has proven to be an awesome go to adhesive for many applications involving man made materials in my shop. If you can find a small bottle try some. I buy gallons and have not seen it in stores, so if you come up empty handed I will send you some to try. It keeps well, will be fine for years unlike Gorilla glue. Not a Gorilla glue fan myself.

Larry

[Glenn Ancona]

Typically the edge build up on solid surface is only 1-1/2 inches from the front. Does the d.w bracket hit behind that?If so - run a full width block from cabinet to cabinet on each side. Always silicone as the solid surface needs to flex - expand and contract especially over heat producing items like the dishwaher. If you can get the block to each cabinet on eather side attach the block to the cabinets and d.w. to the blocks with no ahesive. Glenn

[Mike Wilkins]

I used Polyurethane glue with no problems at all. Make sure you wear gloves when using this stuff; unless you like brown spots on your hands.

[John A langley]

Kent. The guys are all right to some extent. I would use the two part epoxy and solid surface blocked, not wood. We have done several under mount sinks with solid surface in this way. We have never had a problem. A sink full of water is pretty heavy and I don't trust silicone. Email me if you need some scraps of solid surface or if you need more information.

[Kent A Bathurst]

John - thanks for the input and kind offer.

It's all done - simply a couple chunks of WRC epoxied to the underside of the corian top, to receive two SS screws through the install bracket [or, what was left of it after the already-installed "ear tabs" broke].

The only symptom of the problem was that with the door in the down and open position, and then roll out a partially filled rack of dishes, the weight would cause the entire unit to tilt forward a couple inches.

So - all I needed to do was to epoxy the block and fire some screws, to keep the unit from tilting.