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Thread: Gluing ebonized red oak.

  1. #1
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    Gluing ebonized red oak.

    Hello. Can red oak that has been ebonized with vinegar and steel wool solution be glued afterwards?
    Steve Garrison

  2. #2
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    The vinegar may cause a little bit of glue problems; as porous and open as the grain is on red oak, I would not worry too much about it.

    What are you building?
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the response, Scott. I am building a World globe. The base sphere is red oak and the continents will be other hardwoods glued on the surface. I would like to be able to ebonize this sphere before adding them on, but I am concerned about whether the glue (regular Titebond) will hold. Would a different kind of adhesive work better?

    I used the vinegar / iron solution before on a different project with walnut and had problems later with a hazy finish in the poly I used on top of it. I don't know what happened there, have you seen that problem before?
    latlong.jpg
    Steve Garrison

  4. #4
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    Steve, Nice looking globes.

    Why not skip the steelwool and vinegar?

    You can use the easier and more consistent water soluable dyes available at most woodworking stores and on the web. A 1 oz. bottle of dye is only about $9 and makes a couple of quarts.

    Even India ink or RIT brand fabric dye from the local grocery store will be more consistent than the steelwool and vinegar.

    Don't get me started on poly...

    Your wrold globes can be finished with any NON POLY varnish; or even a water-borne finish.
    Last edited by Scott Holmes; 11-01-2011 at 12:48 AM.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  5. #5
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    Thanks, Scott. I am trying to avoid the vinegar / steelwool after the trouble I had with it in the past and looking for an alternative. The RIT dye and the India ink are both available locally. The ink wouldn't fade over time, but what about the dye? Thanks for the help.
    Steve Garrison

  6. #6
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    I would go with the India ink over the fabric dye.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  7. #7
    RIT dye dries a little blue/purple. Beware.

    Ebonizing with vinegar and steel wool is tricky, since the results can vary. I will say that it gives a good 'pure' black color when strong enough. It stinks though for a little time afterward.

    I've also used Transfast black powdered dye, India Ink, and printer toner ink. I find the India and printer toner to be the 'most pure' black.

  8. #8
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    Yes, I tried the RIT on a sample this morning and it does have a purple cast to it - so that's not an option. Last night I glued a piece of bare wood to a piece that I had blackened with India ink and clamped it overnight. This morning I tested the joint and it popped apart with just hand pressure . There is another option - aniline dye which I would have to order, but at this point I think my best bet is to just color the oceans later with India ink after the continents have been glued on. I might try that option because it will be a little while before I have those pieces made.

    I also like the color and texture produced by charring with a propane torch and rubbing with steel wool, but the glue joints can't take the heat.
    Steve Garrison

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