Lee Valley Front Vise Dimension?

[Paul Macias]

I'm getting ready to build a bench, and I like the basic (non-quick-release) front vises sold through Lee Valley. However, I'm going to use the front vise on the end of the bench and therefore need to know exactly how much room I'll need underneith for the guide rods and screw. The "regular" front vise gives a dimension of 14 3/4" overall length, but I'm thinking this includes the front jaw and tee. So I'm wondering: if the dimension for the front vise says 14 3/4 " overall, how much of this is actually behind the end-cap and underneith the bench?

[ian maybury]

Hi Paul, as it happens I have one of the Lee Valley large front vises (item 70G08.02, not the quick release model) on the table as I write. It's possibly the smaller one that you are planning to use, but I don't have it. This one measures 18in exactly from the back face of the front casting (that links the screw and the two guide rods, and that rests against/is screwed to whatever wooden jaw you fit) to the ends of the guide rods. The guide rods project a bit further under the bench than the screw.

Lee Valley list it at 21in overall - that's presumably with the thickness of the front casting and the 'T' fitting to take a handle added to the above 18in. It's quite likely that this 3in is pretty much the same on the smaller vise. i.e. deduct 3in from the listed overall length to get the equivalent figure for the smaller vise.

Plan B is probably just to call or e-mail Lee Valley and ask them for the equivalent to my 18in measurement - their customer service is excellent and very helpful.

How far it actually projects under your bench will also depend on the thickness of the wooden moving jaw you fit, and of the fixed rear jaw if (as isn't reckoned by many to be ideal as it removes the option to without a packer clamp a long piece along the front face of the bench top) it's standing proud of the edge of the bench top.

The quality of the vice seems to be fine, but it's maybe worth saying that this type of vice (and there's lots of makers) will as a result of its design rack if used to clamp something to one side of the jaw, or to carry a dog out near the end - especially if you fit it with a wooden jaw covering the full width of the bench. They tend to need the use of a packer of similar thickness to the clamped piece to stop this happening...

ian

[Paul Macias]

Thank you, Ian, so helpful. Now I've got a new problem: my space is small, so my bench is going to be small (60" X 27"), and if I use this front mechanism for the end vise I'd have to recess the legs and top rail 12" on each end, making the base only 3' total long, which seems too short. I could bore holes in the top rail to accept the screw and guide rods, but I'm afraid of weakening that area, which the top will be bolted to. Based on what you said about the racking and such, maybe this mechanism wouldn't be the best to use as an end vise . . .

[ian maybury]

Try some other opinions Paul - I'm only finding out about vises too. This type does rack unless you use a packer, but there's lots in use and people seem to get by just fine provided they take care. If you want a very wide vice that doesn't rack at all then a chain drive twin screw like those done by Lee Valley or Lie Nielsen seems to be the option. Against that they are quite a bit more expensive.

Another more moderately priced alternative which probably doesn't rack so much, but is by no means proof against it seems to be one of the old style cast iron woodworkers vises along the lines of the Record 52 1/2 fitted with large wooden jaws. I have one, and it's definitely stiffer than a traditional front vise, but would still need packers with offset loads on a wide jaw.

The big question is whether or not you need dog holes on both sides of the bench. Those using a tail or wagon vise to hold down stock for hand planing seem to do just fine with a single row of dog holes near the front edge, and a few to the rear for hold downs etc.

On the other hand it seems to me that if the plan is to assemble complicated frames needing multiple clamping points there may be an argument for a grid of dog holes - which invites the question of whether a wide jawed vise is a good move, with a line of dog holes in the jaw.

An alternative in this regard is to avoid the wide jawed vise, and use some of the Lee Valley dog based holding devices (or home made equivalents) instead. An advantage of this route is that you don't have to drill all the dog holes at first - you can rather find your way along as needs arise...

ian