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Thread: Band Saw Wheels - Cast Iron or Aluminum ???

  1. #1

    Band Saw Wheels - Cast Iron or Aluminum ???

    Looking at the Grizzley 17" band saws, one item that seems to change the price between models is the material that makes up the upper and lower wheels. What can you tell me about the differences between the cast-aluminum and cast iron wheels?

  2. #2
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    Paul, The cast iron wheels add mass to dampen the vibration. Steel saws transmit rather than dampen so the wheels offset that tendency. The old cast iron saws often had cast aluminum upper wheels and cast iron bottom but the frame itself
    absorbed the vibration. The lighter wheel also took weight off the top of the saw. Until someone can give me a good reason for aluminum I would prefer the heaviest best balanced cast iron wheel. Of course the strength of the machine and frame
    is what supports the wheels and determines the tension that can be handled. Bandsaws are pretty simple mechanically so it is all about the materials. Dave

  3. #3
    Paul, I have the Grizzly 513P bandsaw, that model has the aluminum wheels. I have used it to resaw 8" walnut and it cuts like butter with the timberwolf 1" blade. The saw and blade has NO vibration, As a hobby workshop the cast aluminum wheels work great for me. Save a little cash on the saw and buy some nice blades.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Noterman View Post
    Paul, I have the Grizzly 513P bandsaw, that model has the aluminum wheels. I have used it to resaw 8" walnut and it cuts like butter with the timberwolf 1" blade. The saw and blade has NO vibration, As a hobby workshop the cast aluminum wheels work great for me. Save a little cash on the saw and buy some nice blades.
    +1. I believe the 513Ps wheels are computer balanced, so they're very smooth. Certainly it takes a while for the blade to spin down.

    I wish the guides were better, but they work. Good value for money, and I'm happy with mine.

  5. #5
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    One item I don't see mentioned here is that a cast iron wheel due to its mass, will behave like a flywheel, which means that it takes more energy to GET it moving, but once moving, it stays moving easier due to inertia. Translated into usable terms, it should theoretically take more to stop or stall a band saw with cast iron wheels than aluminum. This can be a HUGE help when resawing, particularly hard woods...
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  6. #6
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    David makes a very good point. I wonder whether that momentum piece could/would be offset -- even if only a bit -- with more horsepower, though ... I'm guessing ... with more horsepower, you tend to GET cast iron wheels.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Brooks View Post
    David makes a very good point. I wonder whether that momentum piece could/would be offset -- even if only a bit -- with more horsepower, though ... I'm guessing ... with more horsepower, you tend to GET cast iron wheels.
    Another good point! You get what you pay for. The Grizzly 513 can be had as a basic saw or with lots of letters after the number, and a price tag to match the features. One is $825, one is $1225. The extra 50% gets you more cast iron, better guides, fence and a brake. They're both 17" 2HP bandsaws though.

    The Polar Bears had quite a bit off when they were introduced, my 513P was $695, the present 513X2BF is approaching twice that cost.

    I wasn't sure when I bought it, I took a bit of a punt. I'm glad I did.

  8. #8
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    Although it would appear that the increased inertia with cast iron wheels would allow you to use a smaller motor, it's not the case.

    As soon as the wheel begins to slow down the motor will start developing more power to keep the wheel speed as close to the no load speed as it can. If you're resawing that would mean that the cast iron wheel would give a benefit for a part of a second, and then the motor would have to take over.

    That said I have a band saw with cast iron wheels, and the mass of the wheels helps dampen vibration. That would be the reason I would pay extra for a cast iron wheel...........Regards, Rod.

  9. #9
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    I have a Laguna serie 3000, 16", This has bif cast iron wheel for satbility, & anti vibration.
    Big inerty too.

    I love it

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Noterman View Post
    Paul, I have the Grizzly 513P bandsaw, that model has the aluminum wheels. I have used it to resaw 8" walnut and it cuts like butter with the timberwolf 1" blade. The saw and blade has NO vibration, As a hobby workshop the cast aluminum wheels work great for me. Save a little cash on the saw and buy some nice blades.
    +2 here on the 513P! Experienced NO problems whatsoever in hardwoods. Does everything I've thrown at it without fail.
    Last edited by Randy Dutkiewicz; 10-22-2011 at 10:20 AM.

  11. #11
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    Adding to what Rod said about cast iron wheels. Once the flywheel reserve has been used up, not only does the motor need enough power to keep sawing, but it needs enough power to bring the saw back up to running speed while sawing. I don't think there is any real power advantage to cast iron wheels.

    John

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