"Fissures"

[John Keeton]

While at the OVWG (Ohio Valley) symposium, like some of the others, I took advantage of the wood dealer that was closing out his inventory in order to move back to California. The business is Nature's Antiques, and he is presently in Zenia OH if any of you are interested in some really unique wood at unbelievable prices. Most all of it is from Tanzania as I recall, though I have little knowledge of the exotics.

In any event, I bought three pieces of Eucalyptus resin gum burl. Two of them were full of the voids you see in this piece - each of those blocks cost $2.50!! The other block was smaller, but solid burl - I think it was $4.

Without doubt, this was the most challenging wood I have ever turned. Not that it was hard - the wood turned very well. But, the number of voids kind of kept my attention!

It is turned relatively thin - around 1/8" for the most part, and surprisingly, it held together for the whole trip - well, almost! When I parted off the piece from the waste block, I turned a cone on the remaining waste to fit the 7/8" opening in the top so I could drive the piece. With very light tailstock pressure, I turned the base. Just as I was deciding the "nub" was small enough to remove easily with a chisel or sanding, the nub gave way and the piece bounced across my shop.

The integrity of this thing was already in question, and I quickly discovered it had cracked 3/4 of the way around the form. I could flex the thing like an oyster shell! Not to be defeated, I sprayed it with shellac to avoid staining, and mixed up some 5 minute epoxy. With some quick maneuvering I was able to achieve a good, solid glue up. Most of the cracks are barely visible - a couple of them can be seen in the first and last pics. Just kind of adds to the nature of the thing!

5" x 5", with a satin lacquer finish that has been sanded with 1200 and hand buffed with a towel. No Beall buffing on this one! The Holly finial is a little different style, as is the form used for this one.

As always, all comments are appreciated.

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[John Spitters]

John

Nice piece as always, though I think to my eye I like it standing with the base up as in the last pic. Hmmm maybe that's because I just turned one very similar in form yesterday, today I'll work on the finial and hopefully post in a few days with a finish applied.

John

[Scott Hackler]

What a great piece of wood and what a bargain! I also prefer the narrow portion on the top and if that is an option, I would like to see what the finial looks like on the form in that orientation.

[John Keeton]

John, Scott, thanks for the comments! A couple of the more recent forms I have done were, in fact, oriented "the other way". I thought I would "flip" it and see what kind of effect I got. I like the "squatty" forms both ways, I think. I suspect the other piece of this stuff will take some other shape - seems to be where I am at the moment. I have nearly abandoned viewing other forums and the turnings of others, and I would have to say it has vastly improved my self satisfaction. Not sure what it is doing for my turning, but the enjoyment factor is way up.

[David DeCristoforo]

Ok... I like it upside down better! It would have never occurred to me except for that last pic! But either way, it's a nice intro to air turning for you. BTW, how well does it roll? Or does it just bounce?

[Curt Fuller]

Well, although I can't argue that it would be a nice form upside down, I like it better just as you've done it. Sometimes I don't care much for that reverse curve in the foot but the combination of the wood and the finial and all seems to make this look really nice. It seems to sit up very proud on that foot. The finial is beautiful too. As to the cracks from the accidental launch, I've done that myself on more than one occasion. The nice thing about a rugged looking piece of wood like this is that it's hard to tell the man made cracks from the natural ones. No one but you will ever be able to see which is which. Very nice piece of work John!

[Thom Sturgill]

John, I think that this is an excellent example of the two-thirds rule. If you look only at the body, the wide area appears to be one third of the distance from the top or bottom depending on orientation. Either orientation is pleasing if the exposed curves are.

Now add the finial, the one you turned is sized proportional for the uplifted form and would not work right if set on the downturned form. I think the downturned form would probably need a shorter, heavier finial.

And of course this is a lovely piece of work.

[David E Keller]

I like this piece right side up or upside down! Heck of a deal on some gorgeous wood too!

[Baxter Smith]

When I first looked at this, I didn't especially care for the recurved foot. Another look a couple of hours later and it seems to fit pretty well! The voids appear very black and are a great match to the finial. What did you use to dye the holly? I have done the sharpie routine a few times. The last one I tried ink on and it really raised the grain.
Great buy and a great job John!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Really nice work on this piece John. It could go either way but like the profile of the first pictures. I agree it will be hard to tell the different cracks apart.

[John Keeton]

Thanks, guys! Baxter, I used leather dye on the holly, but to be honest, I wasn't happy with the "blackness" of it. Ended up using matte black spray paint and a few light coats of satin lacquer over it. Works like a charm! And, coal black.

Thom, when I sketch my pieces, I lay out the turning on the rule of thirds. I mark the widest point on the turning first, and start the shaping from there.

[Allen stagg]

IMO, you got the shape DEAD ON. I like it like it is and I just love voids myself.

[Dick Wilson]

John, Great looking piece. I am really happy to see what it looks like because I too purchased a chunk from the same vendor. When I saw it I could see a hollow form with a big void from close to the top center 2/3 the way down the side. The "stock" is 10" by 7". The more I look at it I am wondering if that is such a good idea re: exploding on the lathe. I don't know if I can turn it on my lathe because it would never be balanced. Only option I can think of is an epoxy pour.

$40 bucks for this burl I think is a great price. Now I am befuddledDSCN0429 (500 x 375).jpg
After turning this burl.......any helpful suggestions my friend?????

[John Keeton]

Dick, I knew you had a piece of this stuff and saw your thread about doing a "pour" or "casting". This wood does turn very nice, but I would strongly recommend a waste block with lots of epoxy. I really don't think the wood has enough integrity to withstand chuck jaws clamped down on it! As far as exploding, who knows. I had lots of stuff coming out of this thing, and yes, I did wear my shield the whole way through! Sanding is tricky. The voids will grab any edge they can, so you will need to hold the sandpaper such that no edge comes in contact with the spinning form. Power sanding is out of the question as far as I am concerned.

Your piece is about right for the size work you do - I would give the HF a go. Sure would be an interesting one. As far as a casting or pour, not ever having done that I don't know. I would think that would make the imbalance even worse.

[Rich Aldrich]

John - I really like this piece. The wood is awesome and so is your work. I am going to get into hollowing. I have a Nichol steady rest on order. Next is the monster articulating arm.