Need guidance on new shop

[Ole Anderson]

Unfortunately they are not temporary. They do get in the way a bit, but hopefully the layout is minimizing the hassle. I never envisioned I would be building that small utility closet to hide the electrical panel and tankless hot water heater. If I would have realized that when we were building the house last year, it would have reduced the span that the beam needs to carry. They could have probably figured something out where the posts were not needed. Oh well.

I imagine everybody has lots of stuff in their shop that they would prefer be different. I'll focus on all the positives!

Lou, I love the wood beams in your shop. They look pretty beefy for the span you have. You might want to have an engineer look at them to verify you don't need intermediate posts. I would think you could reduce them to just one. Nice that they weren't set in concrete, that is why I asked if they were temporary. You might be able to sister some additional wood either side and eliminate them altogether. I wouldn't put up with them. I see one is within a foot or so of the corner of your corner room. The studs at that corner could easily be made load bearing to eliminate one post.

[Lou Stags]

Lou, I love the wood beams in your shop. They look pretty beefy for the span you have. You might want to have an engineer look at them to verify you don't need intermediate posts. I would think you could reduce them to just one. Nice that they weren't set in concrete, that is why I asked if they were temporary. You might be able to sister some additional wood either side and eliminate them altogether. I wouldn't put up with them. I see one is within a foot or so of the corner of your corner room. The studs at that corner could easily be made load bearing to eliminate one post.

You have definitely given me something to think about. I will make some calls on Monday morning and see what I can figure out. Thanks very much for your input!!!

[Lou Stags]

First round of new tools have been ordered (this was Santa's present to me)!

G7944 12 Speed Heavy-Duty 14" Floor Drill Press
G0656P 8" x 72" Jointer 3 HP w/ Mobile Base, Polar Bear Series®

Having those machines sitting in the garage will be additional motivation to get the shop done ASAP!

[Shawn Russell]

Can you expand on your process for the floor? Do you plan to glue the foam board down? After you lay the OSB how are you going to attach it or will it just 'float'?

This is an excellent idea as well. I have a door already in the space but a little less than 1.5 inches to put down flooring and I have been wracking my brain on what I could use. I was planning on putting down 5/8 strips and then laying plywood on top of that, but I like your idea much better.

I learn the most from threads like these. So many good ideas and much knowledge sharing.

Cheers

[Jim Falsetti]

Shawn,

Here is one flooring solution.

I intalled the Delta FL over concrete and under a floating wood laminate floor. The total height of the Delta FL and the Laminate is less than one inch.

Jim

[Lou Stags]

Can you expand on your process for the floor? Do you plan to glue the foam board down? After you lay the OSB how are you going to attach it or will it just 'float'?

This is an excellent idea as well. I have a door already in the space but a little less than 1.5 inches to put down flooring and I have been wracking my brain on what I could use. I was planning on putting down 5/8 strips and then laying plywood on top of that, but I like your idea much better.

I learn the most from threads like these. So many good ideas and much knowledge sharing.

Cheers

Shawn,

I am not sure yet if I will glue the foam board down or use Tapcon concrete screws to secure the OSB. I did glue the foam I put on the block walls. Make sure you use a non-solvent adhesive that won't eat the foam board.

The whole thing may float - just to make installation easier. And if for whatever reason I need to pull it up in the future, it would make that job much simpler. I am going to have a lot of machines,cabinets, and benches all over that shop. There will be so much weight holding down that floor that I don't think I will experience much "sponginess". But - now you have me thinking. Perhaps I will consider securing the floor...

[Ole Anderson]

I am putting Pergo (from HD, $1.88/sf) on my concrete basement floor. Been in the house 37 years and it has never been wet. I am planning on just floating it over the wide rolled foam (Robert's 2 in 1, 25 cents/sf), taping the joints. I'm not following the need to go with Delta FL, OSB, etc. Seems like a huge complication. Once I get it in the rest of the finished basement, I am going to sprinkle a little sawdust on it to see how slippery it will be. If not too bad, I will extend into my shop.

[Lou Stags]

I am putting Pergo (from HD, $1.88/sf) on my concrete basement floor. Been in the house 37 years and it has never been wet. I am planning on just floating it over the wide rolled foam (Robert's 2 in 1, 25 cents/sf), taping the joints. I'm not following the need to go with Delta FL, OSB, etc. Seems like a huge complication. Once I get it in the rest of the finished basement, I am going to sprinkle a little sawdust on it to see how slippery it will be. If not too bad, I will extend into my shop.

You bring up a good point Ole regarding the laminate possibly being slippery. I have been thinking about it for my installation and I may try one of those spray-paint non-slip clear coats to see how that works...

[Jim Neeley]

One place on yuor drawing you indicate 220v are to be 30A and in anther say 12ga wire everywhere. For 30A you need 10ga, whether 120 or 22/240. I recommend installing 10ga anywhere you think you may want to upgrade to 240V in the future as well. For my shop I'm home-running 10/3 so any outlet could become 240V or two-breaker 120's without pulling new wire.

[Jim Falsetti]

Ole - In our case, the laminate floats over the Delta FL. Did not use OSB, or other underlayment, or tapcons, etc. - just roll out the Delta FL on top of the concrete floor, tape the seams, and lay the laminate on top.

Our green concrete floor (installed in April 2012) is releasing moisture, and the moisture is then removed from the work space. The shop humidity is controlled with a mini-split system.

The wood laminate is more slick than an unfinished wood floor. If your shoes are wet, the laminate is way too slick. But overall it is very nice work surface.

Jim

[Lou Stags]

One place on yuor drawing you indicate 220v are to be 30A and in anther say 12ga wire everywhere. For 20A you need 10ga, whether 120 or 22/240. I recommend installing 10ga anywhere you think you may want to upgrade to 240V in the future as well. For my shop I'm home-running 10/3 so any outlet could become 240V or two-breaker 120's without pulling new wire.

Thanks for the note Jim. The electricians are running 10ga to the 220 outlets. I am not much of an electrician, so thankfully the pro's are doing the work.

[Mike Cruz]

Lou, just a thought, but if you turn, I would keep the floor concrete. If not, I'd put firring (sp?) strips down, add 3/4" plywood, go to Lumberliquidators, and get some cheap wood (I found rustic hickory, unfiinished) for $1 a square foot. Sand it even. Put ONE coat of finish on it. Great floor!

[Lou Stags]

Lou, just a thought, but if you turn, I would keep the floor concrete. If not, I'd put firring (sp?) strips down, add 3/4" plywood, go to Lumberliquidators, and get some cheap wood (I found rustic hickory, unfiinished) for $1 a square foot. Sand it even. Put ONE coat of finish on it. Great floor!

I am not a turner, but thanks for that suggestion Mike. That's not a bad idea on your approach. I will keep it in mind as I try to figure out what my flooring is going to be.

[Lou Stags]

Lots of progress. Woot Woot!!!!

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[Lou Stags]

I am putting Pergo (from HD, $1.88/sf) on my concrete basement floor. Been in the house 37 years and it has never been wet. I am planning on just floating it over the wide rolled foam (Robert's 2 in 1, 25 cents/sf), taping the joints. I'm not following the need to go with Delta FL, OSB, etc. Seems like a huge complication. Once I get it in the rest of the finished basement, I am going to sprinkle a little sawdust on it to see how slippery it will be. If not too bad, I will extend into my shop.

Ole,

Did you do the sawdust test on your laminate floor?