Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: radial arm saw and dado

  1. #1

    radial arm saw and dado

    I've got a Delta 12" radial arm saw and would like to equip it for cutting dadoes. I've never used a radial saw for that. Is there a different type or style of dado set for radial arm saws? What do the rest of you with radial saws use?

    Thanks, Greg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Richmond, TX
    Posts
    409
    I have and in my opinion it was a little dangerious, the saw would lunge forward if I went to fast or took too deep of a cut. I used a regular dado blade, not sure if one exists for a radial arm saw.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    170
    Greg,
    The only thing you need to remember is size. You'll need a fairly large diameter dado blade if you are going to whittle away at say a 4x4. I have a large DeWalt and am not to familiar with your particular saw. I would think nothing smaller than 8" but since it is a 12" saw you may very well need a 10" at minimum if you are doing cabinets, bookcases, that type of thing with a 1/2" or 3/4" dado. The distance from the arbor center to bottom of motor will dictate the size for you. Remember to put it on the right way! \


    "The Safe Way Is The Best Way!"
    Last edited by Kevin Presutti; 09-28-2011 at 10:40 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,722
    I used to do a fair amount of cabinet work using half lap and bridle joints. I used to cut all the half laps and the bridle tenons on my 10" RAS using a normal 8" dado blade. Most of the cuts were 3/8" deep but occasionally I would make cuts in 2X material so the cuts would be 3/4" deep. Since most dado blades have a positive hook (since they are made to be used in a table saw) they will tend to self feed if you don't have a good grip on the saw and be ready to provide a moderate amount of reverse push (back) to counteract the self feeding tendency. I was able to make very precise cuts once I got everything set up, and I even made a set of screw adjustable micro stops to fine tune the widths of the dados when making multiple passes.

    Since most people use their dado blades in a table saw, and the market would probably be very limited, I don't think any of the major manufacturers make a zero or negative hook angle dado set. It's possible someone like Forrest would custom grind a set for you at additional cost, or a well equipped saw sharpening shop might do so. However, I don't think it would be worth the bother and expense as I feel it's perfectly safe to cut dadoes and rabbets with a dado set in a RAS as long as you pay attention to what you are doing and understand how the saw and blades work.

    Any more I do most (or all) my dado on my 10" saw and save my RAS for longer crosscutting. I have mostly progressed from half laps and bridle joints to M&T, and I cut my tenons on a shaper.

  5. #5
    my experience indicate that ed is correct!
    Carpe Lignum

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Los Chavez, New Mexico
    Posts
    753
    Blog Entries
    1
    Forrest advertises that their Dado King dado set has a negative hook to produce cleaner dados with a table or radial arm saw. Seems like that set should do the job.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Evansville, IN
    Posts
    1,188
    Yes Forrest and a few others make a dado set just for RAS. I am planning on getting one soon also. I have read that they really do make a difference.
    "To me, there's nothing freer than a bird, you know, just flying wherever he wants to go. And, I don't know, that's what this country is all about, being free. I think everyone wants to be a free bird." - Ronnie Van Zant

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hood Canal, Washington
    Posts
    1,039
    The Freud SD500 series dados also have a -15 degree negative angle and are available in a 1" arbor for your saw. http://www.freudtools.com/p-313-super-dado-sets.aspx

    Please be aware that any dado set, even with a negative hook will want to self feed toward you on a RAS if you don't control the feed rate. With a bit of practice, it's no big deal though. Just take it slowly.

  9. #9
    My Delta RAS has a carriage return spring, which helps a little with the self feeding.

    However, the most obvious advantage of dadoing on a RAS is that you can see what you are doing. Blind dadoing on a table saw always seemed as though it wasn't the safest cut to make to me. Particularly on longer boards (say bookcase sides) where racking could be a problem. Not an issue on a RAS.

  10. #10
    Greg.... The limiting factor is probably going to be the arbor. I'd guess your 12" RAS has a 1" arbor, while the 8" dado sets that most of us use in our 10" table saws are 5/8".

  11. #11
    Actually, the Delta 12" saw has a 5/8" arbor. I took some measurements last night, and it looks like it would need at least a 10" dado stack to do any meaningful work. I've got an 8" Freud Super Dado that I use on the table saw. It is supposed to be a "safety" design. I might give that one a try and see how it feels.

    Thanks for the responses, Greg

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    westchester cty, NY
    Posts
    796
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Visser View Post
    Actually, the Delta 12" saw has a 5/8" arbor. I took some measurements last night, and it looks like it would need at least a 10" dado stack to do any meaningful work. I've got an 8" Freud Super Dado that I use on the table saw. It is supposed to be a "safety" design. I might give that one a try and see how it feels.

    Thanks for the responses, Greg

    that's the one i used on my 60s c-man 10" RAS. light passes kept the blade from hogging off too much material at one time, which would cause the motor to stall. short of that, it worked quite well.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bethesda, Maryland
    Posts
    228
    Quote Originally Posted by ed vitanovec View Post
    ... the saw would lunge forward if I went to fast or took too deep of a cut. I used a regular dado blade...
    Yes, that's the way they work. And the way one uses a RAS regular or dado blade with positive hook angle is to exercise control. To me, it's not difficult or dangerous to maintain a steady controlling pressure against the direction of cut while pulling the motor carriage. Should the saw start to self-feed, the natural and instinctive reaction is to stop the unwanted feed rate by restricting it. So stay alert and take charge during the cut--normal practice.

    BTW, I found a 10" dado set for my RAS, with 1" arbor. Onsrud, German manufacture I believe.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Wilmington Island, Ga
    Posts
    654
    I use a 10" dado from grizzly on my 14" RAS

    So far I haven't found it to be lacking.
    I usually make full depth cuts in a single pass.

    And like every other tool I own (even my pencils), safety is always at the front of my mind while using it.
    Husband to 1, father to 9
    2 girls and 7 boys (in that order)
    Life Is Full Of Blessings
    The Lord is my Rock and my Refuge.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    PALM BAY FL
    Posts
    515
    I've got a DeWalt 740 swinging a Sears 6" dado setup to groove stiles for shutter louvers. As the others have pointed out self- feed can be an issue; I tensioned up the roller bearings in the yoke assembly, it helps. Another trick is to introduce some drag in the yoke to arm lock assembly to attenuate the same problem. The instinctive reaction to the grab can be overcome, just use some scrap to go worst case scenario and you'll soon get a feel as to when it's going to happen, and then grip the handle "with authority".

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •