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Thread: Veneer on damaged particle board !

  1. #1

    Veneer on damaged particle board !

    I have a teak-veneer on damaged particle board table to be refinished. But
    BEFORE beginning this piece, I want to consult some other finishers. I have little experience with this “product.”

    It’s a “mid-century modern” coffee table with solid teak surrounding the veneer-clad particle sheet. Water has swelled the board up proud of the level of the edging. In my first examination, I easily/accidentally broke off a small piece of veneer to reveal the oft-waterlogged mass of particles below. Seems a bad omen. There are even slightly bumpy areas out in the middle of the table surface, meaning water has gone through to weaken/expand the particle board all over, though the worst areas are along the boarder with the edging.
    IMG_0303.jpgIMG_0305.jpg
    The plan the clients agreed on was to stain, body up with several coats of dewaxed french polish and protect with 2 coats of wiping poly. They say they don’t mind the difference in level of sheet material vs. trim, and I wasn’t so concerned either until I found out it was particle board--apparently the type that’s more or less water soluble. Now that I know, alarms are going off in my head as I contemplate the various ways that the project could go wrong.

    Shall I just do what my client asks and ignore the step and just do what I can?

    Do I dare try light and gentle treatment with oxalic acid to remove stains?

    Or should I heed the particle board alarm and go no farther?

    I can just hear my mother calling out . . . “You can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear.” On the other hand, I’ve been paid half and I’d love to just finish it up and get it done.

    What do you guys think? Ideas on client relations as well as woodworking will be appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Do you have woodworking skills or primarily a refinisher? I looked at the pics and my first thought was it was beyond help. However, you could cut out the the center portion, install a new substrate and new veneer. Probably more than the piece is worth. If you do that, I would suggest cutting through the end rails with a band saw to keep the kerf as small as possible. Then you would have the 4 pieces of the frame free to work with and install a new substrate with veneer already on it.

    I looked back at what I just wrote and, wow, is this table really worth it? Seems like a lot of expense for a table that probably was pretty cheap to begin with.

    Good luck. Maybe some of the veneer and finishing gurus can help you out.
    Last edited by Jim Rimmer; 09-09-2011 at 2:24 PM. Reason: spelling

  3. #3
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    I would give them a price for a new top in one hand and a refund in th other. Let them choose.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  4. #4
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    If you got disbonded veneer in the form of bubbles in the center, its only going to get worse. Sounds to me like its a goner.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    I agree with Steve .. I would quote a new top, possibly with new teak veneer. OR Pass on the job.

    FYI Building up several coats of shellac is NOT a good idea. The perfect shellac finish is the thinnest possible finish that is flawless. Thick shellac will alligator. A french polish finish is "looks" very deep it is really very thin.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  6. #6
    Jim,

    I make my bread and butter refinishing--leaning toward less toxic materials-- and am a novice woodworker.

    New substrate makes good sense.. . then the table is really better than the original, provided it's a good marriage of veneer and old teak and a good refinish.

    Thanks for the bandsaw tip.

    --Anne

  7. #7
    Too bad I'm now committed to the job. On the other hand, I'll be a pleasure to save the table from the junk heap. Thanks.

  8. #8
    Strangely, though bumpy, the veneer appears to still be well bonded. But yeah, it's icky.

  9. #9
    Thanks for weighing in.

    I gave my client two choices: trim off worst of veneered sheet and re-attach borders or new sheet with veneer with the new sheet and veneer being the more expensive option.

    She chose the less expensive but iffier option which is good and bad: bad because it's still time spent on--hello!-- stained particle board, but good because I don't have to either figure out how to do veneer or hire a friend to do it for me.

    But wait a minute, having to learn to do veneer would be a blessing in disguise and probably would be much easier in the end. Wonder if I would cut more losses by just doing it the right way for the price quoted and consider it an investment in my skill set. Josh, it would at least save me the punishment of trying to "make a silk purse out of a sow's ear."

    Hmmmm . . . . ?
    Last edited by Anne Schmidt; 09-12-2011 at 1:33 PM.

  10. #10
    Thanks everyone for your input.

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