What's yr handle, Good Buddy?

[Prashun Patel]

So do you just grasp the jacob's chuck (or blank - whatever's on the tailstock side) by hand? That's what I do, but it seems kind of dangerous.

[John Keeton]

I am approaching the two year mark on my woodturning, and my Thompson 1/2" V gouge is down to 4" of flute. While I like the wood handles, and don't mind making them, I hate the thought of losing a handle because I may not be able to get the old gouge out of it when the time comes (soon!)

For that reason alone, I am looking at getting a couple of handles. While I think Doug makes a great handle, I kind of like the idea of a "warmer" feel in the winter. Both Randy (Monster) and Dave Schweitzer (D-Way) have cushioned handles. I have looked at Dave's, and like them, and I intend on looking at Randy's at the Ohio Valley event. Randy's are double ended, and I kind of like that feature, too. One could use the handle for either a 3/8" or 1/2" - or, 1/2" and 5/8", etc.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd say turning handles was about the easiest thing I've done so far on the lathe. I made 2 in about an hour, so I don't think losing them is that big a deal. If you really want to reuse the handle, the Hosaluk or Threadlock (sp?) ferrules are grub-screwed, so they prevent you having to use epoxy. Just a thought that I'm sure you've already thought of.

[John Keeton]

Prashun, I have/had my D-Way gouge in a handle with a Hosaluk insert, but I won't be doing that again! In a moment of inattention, my gouge contacted the edge of a bowl I had spinning (wasn't making a cut, and I don't really know exactly what happened!) The gouge slammed down on the toolrest, and the handle split 3/4 of the way down the handle. The insert and gouge went the other direction - fortunately.

IMO, the Hosaluk insert requires maximum removal of wood for the insert, and with no ferrule, a much weakened junction of the tool and handle is the result.

[Sean Hughto]

While I enjoy making my own, I have some of Trent Bosch's which I use all the time:

http://www.trentbosch.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=25

Yet another option.

[Prashun Patel]

Wow, John. Great information. I had not even considered that. Thanks for sharing that experience.
- pp

[Reed Gray]

You can buy a drill chuck for your tailstock, and I have found that pretty simple. I use a forstner bit, and always start by rough turning the blank round, then drill the hole, then center the hole on your tailstock and finish drilling. A forstner bit will go in a bit straighter than twist bits. You do have to clear the chips about once for every 1/2 inch of depth. Mounting the drill bit in your headstock is another option, with feeding it by using your tailstock, or just hand push it. By hand can be fairly accurate with practice. Keep the tailstock close to help line things up.

robo hippy

[Ron McKinley]

For drilling off the lathe I've found that starting with a smaller bit than you need and working up to the final diameter works best. If you start with a 1/8" bit it's pretty easy to get it in straight, especially if your hand drill has a level on it. Then move up to a 1/4" and on up to 1/2" by eighths using regular bits—not spur, spade or Forstner bits........Ron

[Jake Helmboldt]

I do like Sean. There are a few ways/step, but here is what I prefer.

1. mount blank in chuck. You can turn a shoulder first between centers to get it to seat and line up straight.
2. Mount the drill (Jacobs) chuck in the tailstock.
3. With the lathe off bring the bit up to the end at the center point
4. turn on lathe and start advancing the quill
5. once the hole is drilled you can use the cone center in the hole and it automatically centers the blank to turn it.

I find this drills a straighter hole and on center. I tried the Raffan method once where he freehands it and uses the bit in the headstock. I ended up with a lousy hole. So my way has a few more steps, but I get better results.

I use just a bit of wood glue in the hole and have never had a problem with anything coming loose. In fact, I'd bet you don't need anything. Raffan doesn't use anything, just a tight fit. And he also shows a neat trick. To seat the gouge in the handle press it in as far as you can and then whack the back end of the handle with a mallet several times while holding the hanle. It will drive the gouge up into the handle, even though you are holding the handle. He even says something like "it never seems like this should work". But it does.

[Prashun Patel]

I guess my confusion is how to keep the bit from spinning with the blank as it advances into it. I have just held on to the chuck by hand, but that seems dangerous, and sometimes it can get hard to resist the torque. Ok, dumb question: is there a way to LOCK the tailstock so it does not rotate with the head?

[Michael Mills]

I do like Reed and just use a chuck (with m2 taper) in the tailstock. I only have to hold it when retracting the bit from the wood as the grip of the bit/wood may be greater than the grip of the taper in the tailstock.
If you have a drill press with appropriate taper you can just pop it out of your drill press and not buy another one ($15-30).

IF I had “real” gouges I would still use my chuck-on-a-stick. Most chucks have 3/8” post connector and you can insert the bolt as far as you want into the wooden handle, on mine I went 2.5 – 3 inches. This is a ¼” chuck for small stuff but I have a half inch also. Unless you are swapping gouge types frequently it may work for you.