Just to avoid some confusion, it's "Morse", not Morris taper.
Just to avoid some confusion, it's "Morse", not Morris taper.
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This may be similar to what Thom is thinking of -
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/wo...-mandrel_l.jpg
Thanks for the photo John. That looks like an easily made tool that will work well for me.
Jon, check your PM (personal messages), I've got a few questions for you on your equipment. Thanks!
Bob, I nominate you for the Murphy prize for clarity (Nobel and Pulitzer don't have that category). I am a bit embarrassed, as I'm writing a book on musical strings and one of the criteria is understanding the volume versus the cross section. (The vibrating mass is a cubic measure, the tensile strength a square one - the string material has density (cubic) and gauge (square), and the instrument has length (fixed for guitar, variable for harp). Not an exact comparison, but like the matter of holding force with a vacuum there is a counter intuitive aspect. A string of a given length (VL) has a breaking pitch, given the material. My harpist friends keep trying to tune higher with a thinner string (same length), doesn't work.
OK, got off on a tangent - but your description has me thinking of the math. I suggest that you are wrong on one thing. David Ellsworth, the guru of "spirit forms", says that he can only do them with vacuum chucking, and some of them are less than one inch diameter. That suggests to me that your math is correct, but that David has such a gentle touch that he can finish the base with 11.5 lbs force, or less.
I do not have that gentle touch, I shall continue as I'm doing - and save a few bucks.
Best, Jon
David, you say thanks for starting the thread - and I say I'm thankful for starting it. A bit difficult to keep up with the format, but I'll get the hang of it soon.
I gather that the "jam" chucks you are using are specific to the piece and that you actually "jam" the piece on it. I use my formed jam chucks with half inch foam padding to provide friction - but that also reduces grip. Since writing the opening of the thread I've been using "blunt" tailstock centers and been getting a good concentric reversal.
It would seem to me that the thin walls (I turn to about 1/16th) would not support the "jam" without the pressure of the tail stock. A soft "hold" pressure, admittedly, but still the pressure of the tail stock.
Best, Jon
Jon, I don't think I've done any as thin as 1/16"... If I did, it was unintentional!
I've reversed little forms a number of ways... Sometimes I hollow out a piece of scrap to insert the reversed piece into, and other times, I use a small dowel or something similar to insert through the opening and rest against the bottom of the form. Lately, I've been doing more of the 1st scenario because it gives me total access to the bottom. I do use the tailstock with a small wooden insert replacing the normal metallic pin, but I remove it at the end for final cuts and sanding. If you turn a very small cone in the bottom of the jam chuck, it will help center the piece when reversing... Doing so introduces a whole new bit of fiddling since the cone has to be just the right size to work and not prevent the piece from sticking in the jam chuck.
I'm surprised that Ellsworth suggested that he could 'only do them with a vacuum chuck'... A man of his talents and creativity could likely do it a number of ways. I'm no Ellsworth, so if I can do it, I'll bet he could do it blindfolded.
Bob,
You are correct that the force holding the object on the chuck is the product of the pressure differential times the area. This is a problem for small items and in a few other cases. Since we are limited in the vacuum we can create, to increase the holding force the area must be increased. Yes, this is possible. I have developed what I call a Compliant Vacuum Chuck that addresses these limitations. (article to be published in the American Woodturner in early 2012.) The Compliant Vacuum Chuck breaks the barriers of small size, odd shapes, leakage of the wood, perforations and does not require cutting or penetrating your blank inorder to mount it. An explaination of how I can do this 'magic' is too long for this posting so if you are interested go to the AAW Forums, www.aawforum.org, and look for the thread 'Update on Vacuum Chucking Systems'. There are a couple of other strings there on vacuum systems that address some of the questions in this and other threads. The AAW Forum is free and does not require registration to read the posts.
Let me know if you have questions. BTW, I wrote the article 'Understanding - and Improving - Vacuum Chucking Systems' in the February 2011 issue of the American Woodturner.
John Giem