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Thread: Jet 1236 RPM Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    College Station, Texas
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    893

    Jet 1236 RPM Question

    I have a Jet 1236 approx. 12 years ole. The speeds are not marked either on the machine or in the owners manual. Just has 6 detents, 1-5 and "Fast".
    Anyone have any ideas before I start measuring pulley dias?
    Tom

    2 Chronicles 7:14

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Willow Spring, NC
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    487
    Just found on old PDF online that says 550, 900, 1250, 1650, 2600, 3000

    http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i...L000057398.pdf
    Last edited by Marty Eargle; 08-11-2011 at 10:35 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Vadnais Heights, MN
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    1,607
    I've got the same lathe and I did this modification to it....

    http://www.chrisbillman.com/Projects/LatheSpeed.htm

    It may not help get your lathe real slow but it does help slow it down some. Plus it's really simple to do....
    Doug Swanson

    Where are John Keeton and Steve Schlumpf anyway?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    College Station, Texas
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    Thanks guys, didn't I read somewhere that you should turn betwen 6000-9000, where this number is the product of RPM x Diameter?.
    Tom

    2 Chronicles 7:14

  5. #5
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    Mar 2007
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    Eureka, Mo.
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    6K to 9K is a wee bit high for any woodturning lathe.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Willow Spring, NC
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    Some people use the general rule that you should turn at an RPM that falls between 6000-9000.

    For example, according to that rule, you wouldn't turn a 11" piece at 2500 RMP ( 11 x 1500 = 16500 ).

    But this is just a general rule for safety's safe. Obviously a some pieces should be turned (started/roughed) slower and some can be turned faster. Once you start getting use to your equipment, the actual number is less important that just what feels good to you. And of course if you're using a chuck, you probably shouldn't turned faster than what the manufacturer suggests for it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    League City, Texas
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    Tom,

    I have the Harbor Freight copy of that lathe, and at the lowest speed, it is pretty usable for roughing out whatever will fit on the lathe... Fastest speed makes for nice smooth finish as thin as I am willing to go...
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Louisville, Ky
    Posts
    186
    I have the HF copy as well and did the modification. Except I just pulled the handle out and moved the teeth on the shaft until the pulley closed as much as it could and locked. That slowed it down some. I never really go over half way on the speed settings because I get nervous )

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    College Station, Texas
    Posts
    893
    For you guys who have this lathe (or the HF clone), do you turn anything with the headstock rotated to another position? I haven't yet, but it looks inviting from an accesss standpoint.
    Tom

    2 Chronicles 7:14

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Willow Spring, NC
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    487
    I have the clone. I have roughed out one platter with it that started a few inches larger than the swing of the lathe, but as soon as I got it down to ~12" I rotated it back. It felt a little unnatural but I'm guessing that's simply because I hadn't used the feature after months of using the lathe.

    I'll probably try it out again in the next day or so since you brought it up. Other than being unfamiliar and not having the safety of a tailstock while I was roughing, it certainly got the job done.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Richmond, VA
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    1,003
    Tom, I started with a 1236 and rotated the head just once. The articulated arm for the toolrest is flimsy and flexes and needs to be supported (or use a solid freestanding toolrest).

    Also, the higher speed and lighter weight makes for some excess vibration when turning outboard. I advise against it.

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