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Thread: I can't cope anymore...

  1. #1

    I can't cope anymore...

    Well, make that cope cut. I spent the last couple weekends working on our bedroom. 105 textured plaster walls have many challenges, but coping the chair rail was driving me crazy. I don't know if my old Stanley coping saw was bad, or what. I've coped before I thought I did a decent job, but this chair rail was killing me. Finally I set up the router table (first time I've used it since I bought my shaper) with a straight bit and after I cut the miter, I just hogged off the waste. Worked great. I finished up with a file, and everything fit well. I did caulk the joints (painted finish), but they looked good without. So I guess there is more then one way to cope a joint. My Dad, a perfectionist and very skill craftsman can cope with his eyes closed. My Uncle, also a very skill craftsman uses a scroll saw jig. I've seen guys use jig saws, and I guess my router trick works as well.

    John

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    John, I'm having trouble visualizing how you are using the bit to "hog" off, etc. Pics??? TYIA!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Darien,Il
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    31
    At the Woodworking Shows, I saw a guy demo a product he was selling. It was a curved foot/base that replaced the flat base of a saber saw. With this device he coped crown molding as we watched. I don't remember the name of the product. Maybe someone he will know.
    Don

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    SF Bay Area, CA
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    I'm thinking you needed a ramp to maintain the angle correctly as you fed the modling into the straight bit...or the straight bit was angled...or something!! ???
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  5. #5
    Jim,

    When you cut the inside mitre you get a straight line, just like normal. I think the reason you back cut is because it is difficult to maintain a "square" edge. By back cutting your face surfaces meet in a tight line and the back is not seen. A straight router bit maintains a square edge and then you simply rasp off a little material for a nice tight (well mostly tight) joint. As for the router setup, is was just a straight carbide spiral bit in a table, no fence - you must take extreme caution, but for the couple I did I was very careful.

    Chris,

    I think a slightly tapered router bit could work, but I still needed a square edge on the top of my molding.

    John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    John, I understand the backcutting in coping...and actually have manage to do it a few times succesfully, despite my ineptitude...but I'm still not visualizing what you are doing with the router bit. No biggie...

  7. #7
    Jim,

    I'm sure it's not a proper technique, but hey it worked for me. The biggest problem is you are doing fine work near a spinning router bit, not the safest activity. Anyway I couldn't find any of my coped practice pieces, but here is one I never finished. The inside miter (45) is cut as usual. Then the router bit removes the waste up to the paint/wood line. I then fine tune the fit with a couple files and add a little back cut. Maybe a minute or two of filing/fitting. I did find the more filing I did the worse the fit got. I was better off to route the piece as close as possible and just kiss it with a file to fine tune the fit. If it had a natural finish, it would have easily passed with no caulk, but since I painted I added just enough to make the joint disappear.

    John


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Ok, I know I was being slightly daft, but this was what I began to "think" you meant. Thanks for the confirmation. Your point about working close to the spinning cutter is important, too...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Irvine, California USA
    Posts
    35
    They advertise this coping foot quite often in Fine Homebuilding. I should try one: I've been using my jig saw to cope "freehand."

    Dave

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    184
    I have used the copeing foot for about 6 months now. I have it fitted on a Bosch Jig saw that I use fore copeing only. It took some practice to get used to. Once you get the hang of it, it works like a champ.


    Brian

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Harrisburg, NC
    Posts
    2,255
    Its called the Collins Coping foot and it work very well. He also makes bunny planes (miniture planes) for touching up molding that are just great.

    Richard

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