Woodcraft Cutting board for a router top?

[Galen Nagen]

I noticed Woodcraft had some King cutting board sheets in their current flier. I am wondering how well this would work for a top of a router table top. No inserts, just cut a hole and install router. 24 inches x 24 inches by 1/2 inch thick.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...e-24-x-24.aspx

King Cutting Board.jpg

Any thoughts?

GN

[Myk Rian]

1/2" thick? No way. Not stiff enough.
Use 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF glued together.

[Galen Nagen]

I was going to put it over a chunk of mdf and use it like a 24 x 24 insert plate. I should have explained that.

GN

[glenn bradley]

I'm not sure how well the textured surface would serve you. I know there are "micro-dot" surfaces used on some commercial tables so, if the consistency of the texture is tight enough, you may be on to something. I have used surfaces of BLO treated MDF with just some paste wax for years without signs of wear so a polymere should be OK if flat enough to keep a consistent material to cutter relationship through the cut path. My current primary table is just melamine (Rockler) and also has had years of use without ill effect.

[Morey St. Denis]

Plastic cutting boards are generally made of High Density Polyethylene, chemists call it: UHMW PE (Ultra High Molecular Weight)... Regarding your comment: "I was going to put it over a chunk of mdf and use it like an insert plate." Ever tried to glue PE? 3M does make a decent specialty adhesive, but it's ~$25 for several grams worth and the applicator alone costs nearly $75! Without this you likely woln't have much success bonding this PE to some MDF backing. Plastic cutting board material can make great inserts for the router table and the TS, but for a whole table top structure you're likely better off making a formica laminated slick surface or other surface bonded melamine material.

[glenn bradley]

Just a little clarification on the different materials commonly referred to as HDPE and UHMW:

"High Density Polyethylene (HDPE)
Representing the largest portion of the polyethylene applications, HDPE offers excellent impact resistance, light weight, low moisture absorption, and high tensile strength. HDPE is also non-toxic and non-staining and meets FDA and USDA certification for food processing.

Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMW PE)
Light weight (1/8 the weight of mild steel), high in tensile strength, and as simple to machine as wood, UHMW PE is the ideal material for many wear parts in machinery and equipment as well as a superb lining in material handling systems and storage containers. UHMW PE is self-lubricating, shatter resistant, long-wearing, abrasion and corrosion resistant. It meets FDA and USDA acceptance for food and pharmaceutical equipment and is a good performer in applications up to 180 °F (82 °C) or when periodically cleaned with live steam or boiling water to sterilize.

Even more boringly detailed info here: http://www.boedeker.com/mtable.htm

[Stuart Deutsch]

I see no reason why HDPE or UHMW plastic sheets can't be used as a router table material. UMHW will be slicker, but HDPE is pretty slick stuff itself.

You won't be able to easily glue the sheets (although it is possible, maybe with construction adhesive), but you should be able to screw them to the MDF either from the top with countersunk screws, or through the MDF into the bottom of the HDPE.

Cutting boards usually have some texture, though, to help prevent food from sliding. If you want to go this route, spend a little extra and order some smooth sheet from an industrial or plastics supplier. I just did a price check from one source (mcMaster) and saw $40 for 1/2"x24"x24" and $58 for 3/4" thick, not incl. shipping.

[Galen Nagen]

In the end, plain old MDF would work well, if supported by some ribs/supports in a Pat Warner style.

Less expensive.

GN

[kevin loftus]

Just wondering if they are guaranteed to
be flat.

[Galen Nagen]

I did order one. For 29.00 I thought I would give it a try. I plan to bolt in to mdf. I probably will stiffen the mdf with baltic birch plywood. If it turns out I will post it. If not, you will never see it.

I view it as like a huge base plate but the base plate (insert) doesn't have to but into a rectangular hole. I have a 3.25 Freud router which has a lift built into it. I am going to drill a 1 3/4 hold into it and hope that will suit my meager needs.

GN

[Marius Titulescu]

Just wondering if they are guaranteed to
be flat.

They are flat but way too thin .