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Thread: Is the Klausz-Frid-Scand Bench Dead?

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Philadelphia, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Charles View Post
    Hello again,

    I'm still having trouble posting to the end of the thread so it shows as the last of the pages. Any suggestions?

    Cheers,
    C
    Probably just your display setting. Go up to the display dropdown and select "switch to linear mode". That's how I keep mine setup and so everything shows up in chronological order for me.
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    N. Idaho
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    Perfect, thanks.

    C

  3. #93
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
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    Well the next step was to add the end-cap, which I made as a full-width piece in case I later decide to go "split-not" top roubo. All was going well until the dry fit. The first attempt is the left half, the correction is on the right:

    IMG_1390.jpg

    I also decided to cure the hardware using linseed oil (unboiled) and did 2 coats. The curing gave a nice bronze tone, a warm texture and what seems to be (most importantly) substantial rust protection.

    IMG_4064.JPG

    Fitting the tailvise is definitely a fiddly proposition, but worth the effort. Some invisible shims saved the day. Have also milled the benchdogs, assembled and fit the leg vise, and all that remains it to level the base and flatten the top.

    IMG_4067-001.JPGIMG_4070.JPGIMG_4066.JPGIMG_4071.JPG


    Thus far the very early experiences with the new bench and vises have indicated that i'm in the process of a quantum leap over my previous set up (~6' pine bench that was too tall with 2 standard metal face vises). Once done, I'll post some final shots along with a wrap-up analysis including costs, etc.

    Cheers,
    Chris C.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
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    1,621
    Hello all,

    Here's part of a final analysis on my bench:

    9/1/2008 Woodmizered elm slabs thanks to a friend
    7/19/2011 Leg vise screw (woodcraft) $70
    10/16/2012 Began breaking down elm slabs
    11/1/2012 BC tailvise, bench bolts, plans and leg glide guides $469
    11/7/2012 Maple for benchtop (gift from friend)
    4/1/2013 Handwheel from salvage yard $10
    4/1/2013 Machining for leg vise screw $35
    5/1/2013 Small hardware (lag screws, endcap bolts, brass screws for bench dogs) $15
    6/1/2013 Boiled linseed oil $5
    5/1/2013 Gift certif. to friend who gave me lumber $75
    Total cost, direct materials $679
    Weight 385 lbs.
    Price / pound $1.76

    Indirect costs
    Router bit $30
    Bandsaw blade $37
    Planer blades ~$30
    Dowel plate 0

    Power tools I used (ranked by importance)
    Band saw (processing raw slabs and rough milling legs)
    Planer
    Jointer (rough milled lumber)
    Router
    Drill Press (mortising, vise fitting)
    Table Saw (leg tenons w dado head)

    Total hours: ~100, cut by 20%-40% if using dimensional lumber

    Note that the timeline was stretched by a move, kids, demanding job, etc. etc... That and I'm no Derek Cohen (yet )

    Hope that's helpful; final pictures and more thoughts to come sometime over the holidays.

    Cheers,
    Chris C.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lubbock, Tx
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    1,490
    Like the dovetail detail.

    So update us please, how's she working for you.

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
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    I finally got around to taking some shots of the finished bench while moving the entire shop around to put down some OSB on the floor. The bench is normally spun around 180 degrees from that shown in the first photo.

    So far, I've had no issues whatsoever. In particular, having a decent face vise (wagon vise) with _good_ bench dogs has been a game changer. Definitely have no desire to go back to round bench dogs.

    The sofa table in the photos is a WIP, the second project off the bench. The first was a small Odate style japanese toolbox with a couple of trays for my son, who collects feather. In other words, his "dovetail box".

    Two questions for the long term will be whether I'll regret not having used a traditional tail vise instead of the wagon vise and how long before I add a chain or criss cross to the leg vise.

    Thanks to all for the feedback and encouragement.

    Cheers,
    Chris C
    IMG_4618.JPGIMG_4621.jpgIMG_4622.JPGIMG_4625.jpg

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Lubbock, Tx
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    Very nice - beautiful and functional looking. Please do keep us updated on how it works for you.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    681
    Nice-looking workspace and great bench. I wish I had somewhere to burn the mountains of scrap I accumulate.

    Also, I love the giant wheel you have on the leg vise. Enjoy it!

    Mike

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Wild Wild West USA
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    I like the big'O hand wheel !
    Fun !
    And look at all those dogs. Nice to have.
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  10. #100
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    Sep 2008
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    N. Idaho
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    Thanks Mike and Winton. I did forget to mention that the wheel is fabulous. And doing a big batch of dogs seemed like the way to go in the long run.

    Cheers,
    C

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Longview WA
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    Nice looking bench.

    Is the wheel available commercially or was it just a lucky find?

    I do not see a handle for the wagon vise.

    I made a batch of dogs and like them so much I make a few more when the chance presents itself.

    My current bench uses round dogs. I can see some advantages to square dogs. Maybe we should have a thread just for folks to voice their reasons for preferring one or the other.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
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    He said he found the big wheel in a junk yard. Go back a page or 2 to see the round handle for the wagon vise. For some reason I just read this whole thread!

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    N. Idaho
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    Hello Jim and George,

    Opps, forgot the tail vise pic.

    And George is correct, the hand wheel came from a salvage yard in town that specializes in re-purposing building materials and it is larger than most. I think it is 9" dia.

    One thing that I'd definitely do again is to cure the handwheels and threads with flaxseed oil. Gives a wonderful, warm feel like a good coat of wax and added a great bronze tone. Worked so well that i'm tempted to try on a metal plane as rust-proofing. Anyone tried?

    Cheers,
    C

    IMG_4623.JPG

  14. #104
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Charlotte, MI
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    1,524
    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Charles View Post
    Hello Jim and George,

    Opps, forgot the tail vise pic.

    And George is correct, the hand wheel came from a salvage yard in town that specializes in re-purposing building materials and it is larger than most. I think it is 9" dia.

    One thing that I'd definitely do again is to cure the handwheels and threads with flaxseed oil. Gives a wonderful, warm feel like a good coat of wax and added a great bronze tone. Worked so well that i'm tempted to try on a metal plane as rust-proofing. Anyone tried?

    Cheers,
    C

    IMG_4623.JPG
    Dunno, but you season cast-iron cookware with oil and heat so I suspect it will work.
    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
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    12,402
    I would not put flax seed oil on your planes. If it dries(are you referring to EDIBLE flax seed oil?),it will stay a little gummy,and might wear off in little balls and be a nuisance. Frankly,I don't know if edible flax seed oil dries. It will if you heat it up to simmering for about 20 minutes. That starts polymerization. I used to use it in varnish making because it is much clearer than hardware store linseed oils.

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