No, but I can share the abridged version. It may not be exact, but it will give the mechanically inclined an idea of the general steps.
I start by leveling the machine using a machinist level. I lock the planer table low enough that I can lift up the jointer tables, and then using the adjustable feet I place shims under one of the roller feet until the table is level in both the X and Y direction. Some use a jig, but I find this works. A machinist level is necessary. You need to be fussy with this step.
After leveling you need to remove the access panels circled in the image. Both the chain and the belt need to be removed, from their drives so you need to remove the access panels. To remove the chain you need to loosen the drive sprocket nuts. Once removed you can reach inside and manually move the idler wheel so you can remove the drive sprockets. To remove the belt I started it off the edge and then turned the cutter until the belt pops off. I suppose a real machinist would loosen the motor nuts and back it off to avoid damaging the belt.
To remove the cutterhead you will need to remove either the infeed or outfeed table. I remove the infeed. There are few bolts and nuts to do so. Pay attention to the washers. These are circular on one side and must go back the same as they come out.
You also need to remove the dust hood because the shaft goes thru the holes in the cutter block. There is a lot of little kickback feet, so take a picture before you start. To remove you need to loosen the set screws in the collars, then simply slide out the shaft slowly. You may need to lift the dust boot to relive pressure on the shaft. Mine comes out without any excessive force.
There are chip diverters at both the infeed and outfeed. These are easily removed with a hex key.
Removal of the cutterblock is quite easy once you have all the basic parts off. You need to remove 6 bolts on either side, and then the cutter will lift out. Be careful as it is easy to knick yourself. I am sure the pro's have something to cover the cutter.
When I bought my shellix in 2005 it came with the bearings pressed on the cutter shaft. I assume they still do this. If not, I would take it to a machine shop to re and re those.
Replacing the head is a reverse of this. Keep in mind the mount holes are drilled with a tolerance spec. You can adjust the height of the cutter block about 0.025" or so in both the Z direction. I start by snugging up four bolts (two on each side), check for level, and then adjust. I repeated that until my level shows the head is level in both directions. This step takes me about 40min or so. A jig would be better for this.
Replacing the infeed table is the only other time consuming step. This requires the same patience to get them level. You will have to study the bolt arrangement to understand how to adjust the table so it is planar to both the cutter and the outfeed table.
Attachment 387111
A3-31_CUTTERAHEAD.jpg
A3-31_TABLES.jpg
Here is a recent picture of mine I found. This is the picture I took to remind myself of the roller feet arrangement.
DUSTBOOT.jpg
Here is another of the cutterblock just before I removed it.
CUTTERBLOCK.jpg
This is how my machine looked while I waited 5d for new pressure infeed bolts I broke late one night being silly.
A3-31-DISASSEMB.jpg
I am sure there are better ways to do some of what I mentioned, but this should give some a good idea of what this entails.
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