Just a few questions about WoP and Pen Finishes

[Chris Burgess]

I have a small pecan platter that I am in the process of applying several coats of 100% Pure Tung Oil to and was thinking about finishing it off with a WoP.
1. Would this be a good idea?
2. Is WoP food safe? Planned on it being a small Cookie platter

Pens.
I recently purchased a Mandrel and Slim Line pen kits. I went out and made up some blanks today using various woods (Black Walnut, Pecan, Spalted Oak, Black Willow Burl).....only wasted 2 brass tubes..... For a finish I was thinking of sanding to 600 and then applying several coats of Med Thick CA and then running up my Micro Mesh for a solid gloss finish.
3. Is this a good way to finish pens?
4. Should I Wax it when done or cover w/ some other product to protect the CA Finish?
5. I also have a Plastic Polish for my Corian...can/should I use that on the CA for a smoother finish?

Just waiting for my Mandrel Saver and or Live Center to be able to turn the pens.

6. Why is it when you have a part coming but it is an extra or not needed right away it is there the next day but when you need it they eat up the entire 10 business day window?

Thanks,
Chris

Will post pics when all is said and done

[Tim Rinehart]

On the platter, I would think applying some de-waxed shellac after the tung oil would help guarantee a good adhesion/set of the WOP. Not sure, but applying the WOP to dried tung oil may be problematic...but I'm not 100% on that. I've always heard, and it makes sense, that any of the finishes, once fully cured, are food safe. I would have no reservations serving food off a WOP treated surface.

There's SO MANY ways of finishing pens for a glossy look, but use of CA seems to lead the pack. I typically take mine to 600 and then use a little BLO on a paper towel and a few drops of CA for several coats. The IAP site has likely got alot of info there on processes, but I suspect many will chime in here too.

[Ron McKinley]

Go over to http://penturners.org/ for everything you ever wanted to know about pen turning. However, we have a lot of penturners here on the Creek. There are many different ways to put on a CA finish and I haven't mastered any of them. Actually, I don't like my wood to look and feel like plastic, plus I don't like the smell of the stuff so I use it only for patching defects in pens and other turnings.

As far as WOP over Teak oil, I don't have any experience with it but would think it would work after the teak is fully cured and a light sanding.......Ron

[David E Keller]

I'd be tempted to stop with the tung oil on the platter, but I wouldn't have any reservations about serving food off of cured WOP.

I like your plan for the pens, and I think the plastic polish or a good buffing helps really make a CA finish pop. I like to put Renaissance wax on my pens just to cut down on the finger prints, but it's not a necessity. Like Tim, I tend to burnish on a coat of BLO before my CA, but there are lots of ways to do CA... You just gotta find the one that works for you fairly consistently.

[Donny Lawson]

As far as the platter I'm not much on help but as far as the pens, I used to do a BLO/with CA to finish them but sometimes I didn't get the finish I was looking for. Now I use straight CA(thin). Once it's sanded to 600 I add 6-8 coats of thin CA. I use the accelorator in between coats and I can put on 6 coats in less than 2 min. I then use MM to wet sand to 12000. Add a quick coat of plastic polish to remove any scratches and it's ready to put together. Looks like a piece of glass.

[Steve Kubien]

I am with Dave. After the tung oil, there is no reason to put anything else on the platter...unless you want it to look like plastic.

[Jim Burr]

From the FDA; All standard finishes are food safe once cured. If you can still smell it...it's not cured.
WoP is a great finish for pens. Les Elm has a tutorial about it, have to search for it...links aren't allowed