Powermatic 45 restoration project

[Doug Morgan]

Looks clean enough to me. No one will EVER look into those corners - cut yourself a break. Unless you like tedious useless work...

JT

If I'm using self etching primer, the metal has to be bare. I know that there is epoxy primer but that ruins a paint gun. I don't have any cheapo spray guns. Maybe I'll have to break down and get a harbor freight el cheapo.

[Doug Morgan]

My hardware store has opened a checkout lane for every time I enter the store!!! LOL

[Doug Morgan]

Darn rain. I know its good for the environment but Noah was prepared. I took a lot more of the green paint off. I was able to disassemble the tail stock and polish the parts. The wheel appeared to be either aluminum or painted plastic when I just glanced at it. I didn't really pay close attention to it. It was painted with some cheap silver paint and when cleaned it was cast like the rest of the machine, much to my delight. I don't know how to get the spinner knob off of the wheel so I have to do some reading (unless some has any ideas). There are no threads in the hole that I can see. Is it pressed on? I sand blasted more of the bed and its beginning to look better. I need a larger air compressor. Maybe I'll call my friend that has a large compressor and truck that I could take these parts out to his place and do it. Post pictures later...

[Carl Beckett]

Hi Doug,

Im appreciating the progress and posts. Sounds like you will be spraying this? Am wondering if a combo of roller and brush would yield the same finish, and free up your choices of primers/paint types? (a roller leaves a pretty good finish for equipment, since the underlying metal is usually not glass smooth anyway. Heck, I saw a car once that the guy painted with a roller and I had to admit it didnt look all that bad......... )

[Julian Tracy]

I've done quite a few machines lately and I've been using the Rustoleum 2x spray paint. It is, without a doubt, the very BEST spray paint in terms of coverage I've ever used. And unlike the old style Rustoleum, this 2x version is quick drying - can be handled in about 15 minutes.

JT

[Doug Morgan]

I have had a really long day today. Most of it was working on the lathe but there were times I was cleaning the garage also. I got most of the paint off the bed of the lathe as seen here. You might notice that there was some surface rust but as of now it is all gone.
Clean bed.jpg

I spent some time cleaning other parts and now have most of the Reeves Drive cleaned.
Cleaned parts.jpg

I also was able to get the knob off the tail stock wheel. Then I put a 3/8" rod through the wheel and bolted it on both sides. Then I connected it to the drill press and lowered the speed down to where I felt it was safe to sand the wheel. After that I inverted the wheel on the 3/8" rod and sanded the underside. When I was happy going through 200, 320, and 600 grit sand paper I move to the polishing station. I removed the rod and began to polish it like there was no tomorrow.
polished parts.jpg

Then I moved back to the stand and went inside to clean. You will note that the inside of the door is not yet stripped. That would be because I want to take the door with me when I select the paint for the lathe.
lathe stripped.jpg

Another view of the stand and lathe.
stand inside stripped.jpg

Another angle of the stand.
stand inside stripped 2.jpg

And a couple more pics. This one with a flash.
stand inside stripped 3.jpg

And a mock up of the lathe.
lathe stripped 2.jpg

[Doug Morgan]

Hi Doug,

Im appreciating the progress and posts. Sounds like you will be spraying this? Am wondering if a combo of roller and brush would yield the same finish, and free up your choices of primers/paint types? (a roller leaves a pretty good finish for equipment, since the underlying metal is usually not glass smooth anyway. Heck, I saw a car once that the guy painted with a roller and I had to admit it didnt look all that bad......... )

Thank you Carl. I have not made the final selection for the paint yet. The only thing I'm sold on is that it will be green like the original. I have taken careful steps to make this as good as I can. I really want this to be as good as the inspiration that I got from another PM 45 restoration project.

[Doug Morgan]

I've done quite a few machines lately and I've been using the Rustoleum 2x spray paint. It is, without a doubt, the very BEST spray paint in terms of coverage I've ever used. And unlike the old style Rustoleum, this 2x version is quick drying - can be handled in about 15 minutes.

JT

Thank you Julian. I will be checking it out.

[Doug Morgan]

Tip for cleaning holes. Buy a couple of wire brushes used to clean copper pipes before soldering them. Take one and cut off the handle and chuck it in your drill. Cleans the rust out very quickly. Use the other one by hand.

That really worked well. I used the brush from a plumbing tool to clean the holes and worked great.

[Tom Ewell]

Are you taking any steps to protect the bare metal from moisture until you're ready to paint?
Might need to pickup some self etching primer and shoot a coat on, it'll give you some extra time considering your rain "delays".

[Doug Morgan]

Are you taking any steps to protect the bare metal from moisture until you're ready to paint?
Might need to pickup some self etching primer and shoot a coat on, it'll give you some extra time considering your rain "delays".

Yes Tom I have a fine layer of oil on it until I have the primer in my hands and ready to shoot.

[Sam Layton]

I am impressed, you are doing an outstanding job Doug. I really enjoy following you progress. Thanks for posting all the photo's.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

I am impressed, you are doing an outstanding job Doug. I really enjoy following you progress. Thanks for posting all the photo's.

Sam

Thank you Sam. I love keeping everyone up to date. My two hobbies are woodworking and computers.

[Paulo Marin]

Doug,
I appreciate your post. I recently acquired a Yates American and was planning to restore it. Now I can see what is ahead of me.

Can I consult with you?

Superb job

-paulo Marin
glaser hitec engineering

[Doug Morgan]

Doug,
I appreciate your post. I recently acquired a Yates American and was planning to restore it. Now I can see what is ahead of me.

Can I consult with you?

Superb job

-paulo Marin
glaser hitec engineering

Paulo,
Yes I'll be glad to pass on anything I can to assist you. Biggest tip, PICTURES, PICTURES and more PICTURES. Especially before pictures. If you don't, you may forget how to put it back together. Second get the manuals. Here is a site that has 111 different Yates American manuals for down loading.

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex...x?id=782&tab=3

You can filter out the type of machine you have rather its a lathe, saw, planers, joiners, and whatever.

Paint removal is a mess of a job. Chemical stripper does a great job (but get rubber gloves and use steel wool for cleaning and there is a stripper wash you want to use NOT water, you create rust). Wire wheels and hand brushes get into tight areas. Media Blaster will get into corners where you can't get access (but don't spend a whole lot on this $$$ and get the one that has gravity feed not siphon. Siphon uses too much air and unless you have a large compressor, you will end up waiting on the compressor to catch up). Tips from other woodworkers came in like using the brush from a plumbing tool to get into tight areas worked. Wire brush on your grinder is a must. If youre going to polish anything get different grits of sand paper to get the best prep for the metal. Start at 180 grit and advance up to 600 grit. I found that Porter Cable has some great polish for the finish but there are others I'm sure some of these guys can recommend the best. Ask these guys and the guys on the vintage machinery site. They have more tricks up their sleeves than one could count.

Thank you.
D