Is a Disston D12 really superior?

[Kory Cassel]

If you'd read my original post, that was the point. The no 12s super steel won't make up for it being dull.

[Pete Taran]

Kory,

Not angry at all. You seem to be imputing feelings that aren't there. I never said that the steel was special, you did. I just said that it was harder, and by making it harder, the saw could be made differently. Third time I'm pointing this out and likely the third time you will ignore it in your gushing love affair with the D8. The D8 is a great saw, and I own 100s of them. The #12 is better, in every respect. Perhaps this is a Chevy / Ford type debate?

[Pete Taran]

Kory,

That's a very keen observation. I thank you for that.

All the best,

Pete

If you'd read my original post, that was the point. The no 12s super steel won't make up for it being dull.

[Kory Cassel]

Maybe it is a style preference, I've used several but don't own a no 12. I only have 3 full size handsaws (user not collector). I just like being able to lift my rip-saw into position without feeling strain in my wrist. Are you the proprietor of some kind of hand tool museum?

[Pete Taran]

Nah,

I'm just a chucklehead who has collected saws since 1991, and has made a few along the way.

Pete

Maybe it is a style preference, I've used several but don't own a no 12. I only have 3 full size handsaws (user not collector). I just like being able to lift my rip-saw into position without feeling strain in my wrist. Are you the proprietor of some kind of hand tool museum?

[Kory Cassel]

I haven't done much cold work. Some forging, but I've never tried hammering the hardened steel. What's that like? Im not totally clear about what is going on with the tensioning. Are you trying to stretch the spine or the tooth line?

[Jason Lester]

I think Pete's being very modest here. Maybe do a Google search for his name and you'll see why he has such strong opinions on saws.

[lowell holmes]

It will be your saw. Take a junker and play with it. I did and have a gorgeous saw.
There is no reason you shouldn't alter a saw plate to suit you.

[Pete Taran]

Kory,

It was not a one size fits all situation. Each blank had different characteristics and had to be hammered differently. Attached is an excerpt from Disston's own manual on saws, dated 1914. It describes the process they used after taper grinding, but before final glazing.

tensioning.jpg

I haven't done much cold work. Some forging, but I've never tried hammering the hardened steel. What's that like? Im not totally clear about what is going on with the tensioning. Are you trying to stretch the spine or the tooth line?

[Kory Cassel]

lowell,

I hear you and I respect your right to do what you like with your own property, but I also try to consider the collector's sensibilities when I do my restorations. While I'm not afraid to remove some 'patina' to restore a tool to full function, I keep my stuff as original as possible. Most of my tools were assuredly in less than Fine condition when I bought them, but it would have to be a pretty much ruined no 12 before I would feel comfortable cutting up the saw plate. And then what would be the point?

[Kory Cassel]

Fast or loose huh? I'm still a little confused but it looks like they were hammering down the center if the saw was stiff, and down the spine if it was floppy. Is that right?

[Pete Taran]

I don't think so. Hammering stretches the steel. So it appears they hammered it on the edge if the center was not properly tensioned to impart some tension in the edge. If the edge was tight but not the center, they would hammer the center to stretch it. By edge they mean near the cutting edge, not obviously hammering on the .040" edge vertically. I wonder if the modern makers go through this trouble, or just cut the plate from coil and call it good. I'm guessing not many people understand the arts of tensioning today.

[Kory Cassel]

I would be shocked to find any finely made hand tensioned hand saw for less than the price of 10 good restorable antiques. The price of the skilled hand labor would be too high.

[Tom Levy]

I just made my first handsaw purchases from eBay, any advice on tuning them?

Never done any saw sharpening before, but excited to try. Got a D8 8pt rip, D23 8pt xcut and #12 8pt xcut ($5, $5, $45). All in decent shape it appears, no rust or missing teeth and all handles seem solid.

[lowell holmes]

I am a user, not a collector. I do not intend to sell my saws. They will be inherited by my heirs.
I would not butcher a pristine saw, but I will recondition a rust bucket saw. My D-12 was that.
It is now a desirable saw that will not be sold.