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Thread: Hybrid Thien/McCallister Dust Collector Project

  1. #31
    I finally figured out what the problem was! I originally thought the blades were flexing and rubbing at high speed, but when I took it apart there were no marks on the housing. Well it turns out I was on the right track, but I was looking in the wrong place. The blades of the impeller are riveted onto the disc, and it's those rivets (on the back side) that were rubbing. I thought I had plenty of clearance all the way around, but apparently there's at least 1/4" of flexing going on at full speed. So I took it all back apart, routed out 1/8" or so from the spacer to get more clearance, and put it all back together. Works great
    Now for the blast gates...
    Last edited by Patrick Maloney; 06-25-2011 at 3:19 AM.

  2. #32
    Last night I made 4 blast gates to get me started. I ordered some recessed mag switches for them, so you'll only see a wire coming up from the back when they're done. Should look pretty clean.

    IMAG0392.jpg

    Today I've been working on the hood for the radial arm saw. It was my first time molding PVC, so I finally got to use that $12 heat gun I got from HF several months ago! I can't believe how easy this stuff is to work with! Hopefully, if all goes well, my DC will finally start paying for itself tomorrow!

    IMAG0391.jpgIMAG0390.jpg
    Last edited by Patrick Maloney; 06-25-2011 at 10:58 PM.

  3. #33
    I moved the filter to the other side of the wall and added a section of 8" insulated duct. It made such a big difference! I was worried about the DC being too loud for my wife and possibly the neighbors, but now it's quiet enough that I don't need to worry about making any more changes. Thanks to Bill Pentz for the suggestion on his website!

  4. #34
    I got the control system wired over the last couple days. Everything works well so far.
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  5. #35

    What delay timer does everyone recommend?

    I want to add a delay timer to keep my DC running while I switch between tools and to reduce the number of start cycles. What make/model does everyone recommend? The ICM253 used in HVAC is the most economical option I can find. Thanks.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Trussville, AL
    Posts
    3,589
    I don't recall the brand, but I bought a spring timer that fits in a light switch housing from Lowe's to control my ni-cad charging station. The one I bought could be set to multiple hours. I don't recall the price, but knowing my inclinations, it couldn't have been more than $20.

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Maloney View Post
    I want to add a delay timer to keep my DC running while I switch between tools and to reduce the number of start cycles. What make/model does everyone recommend? The ICM253 used in HVAC is the most economical option I can find. Thanks.

  7. #37
    Thanks Jerome. Anyone else have any advice?

  8. #38
    In case anyone is interested, the ICM253 delay timer works like a charm and cost only $17 shipped.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    749
    What did you use to make the round cylinder portion of this out of? I want to try and make something similar but I have had trouble finding anything durable that is the right size.

    Thanks,
    Joshua

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua Dinerstein View Post
    What did you use to make the round cylinder portion of this out of? I want to try and make something similar but I have had trouble finding anything durable that is the right size.

    Thanks,
    Joshua
    I bought a used industrial DC that came with a cardboard-type barrel. I just cut the top section off and used it for the separator. I used the remaining bottom section for the dust bin.

  11. #41
    Here's the method I'm using to connect to the table saw workstation. I needed something that would stow out of the way when I'm not using it, but could easily be attached when needed. A quarter turn is all it takes to disconnect or connect it.
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  12. #42
    I made a lot of progress on the table saw duct work today. The whole assembly stores up out of the way, above the garage door, but can be lowered down when in use.
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  13. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Auburn, WA
    Posts
    133
    What material did you use to make the black ring for your quick disconnect? How did you cut the grooves above the "ears"? Very innovative!

  14. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Stoops View Post
    What material did you use to make the black ring for your quick disconnect? How did you cut the grooves above the "ears"? Very innovative!
    Thank you! It's nice to finally get some positive feedback. I was starting to think my thread was invisible.

    The black piece is the adapter from a catch basin for exterior drainage. I bought them from a Discount Drainage for around $6.00. They work great for standard permanent transitions or, in this case, quick disconnects. For permanent applications, just cut the lock tabs off and secure in place (I used epoxy). For a quick disconnect, all you have to do is modify the tabs to fit the material thickness you're using. I used a cut-off wheel and some small hand files to clean it up. For the piece it locks into, I had some scrap pieces of 1/4" acrylic laying around, so I made a template out of hardboard and routed out a couple with a pattern bit.
    Last edited by Patrick Maloney; 07-31-2011 at 11:32 AM.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Auburn, WA
    Posts
    133
    Thanks for the info, Patrick. I assume the fittings are 6" diameter and fit the thin wall PVC ducting. I looked at the Discount Drainage website and didn't seem to find the catch basin adapter fitting you mentioned. Do you have a part number and/or manufacturer? Did you purchase your fittings online?

    Thanks,

    Paul

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