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Thread: Refinish cedar light post

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Manheim PA
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    Refinish cedar light post

    Instead of using a varnish on my cedar light post this year, I would like to try painting it. I am told I need a special primer for it using either oil or water base paint. I now have it sanded down to the bare wood. Another option may be Cabot stain. Can anyone advise on the special primer. Thanl you for any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
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    What finish was on it before you sanded? Sanding is a poor method of removing old finish It does not get the old finish out of the wood pores.

    However, if you want it painted, then most exterior paints will work just fine, and you don't have to worry about the old finish still in the pores it will actually help seal it up. Oil based paint will be a bit more durable; they take much longer to dry. Also a fence paint would work very well. I don't think there will be a need for a primer with the fence paint.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  3. #3
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    Scott, I have always used marine varnish. But the sun pretty well destroys it in a year. Is there anything more durable other than painting it?

  4. #4
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    If you want a clear finish that is durable, try Epifanes Marine Varnish. Expensive and time consuming to apply, but it is very durable. Others have posted of good results using clear paint base, the stuff to which colorants normally are added to make custom paint colors.

  5. #5
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    As John said... Epifanes is the best. If you think the sun in PA is tough, you should come down to Houston!

    Most home Depot Lowes type, marine or spar polys don't make it a full summer in Houston.

    What marine varnish have you been using?
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Atlanta, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    ..a clear finish that is durable, try Epifanes Marine Varnish..
    Reasonably clear, but still a bit of amber, it seemed to me [on WRC].

    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Expensive....
    +1

    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    .... time consuming to apply....
    +7 [as in, 7 coats with sanding in between]

    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    ... very durable..
    No question. Good stuff.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
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    No matter what clear finish you apply, it will require re-finishing every few years. Even Epifanes needs to be scuff sanded and have a couple of new coats added every year or so.

    An exterior oil based house trim paint will be the longest lasting finish. If the paint lasts 10 years on your house, it will last ten years on your post lamp.
    Howie.........

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
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    Oil based primer then top coat with high quality latex paint.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Manheim PA
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    Well, I used WeatherAll exterior primer/sealer oil base HP-208 from Tru Value. I think this is their premium paint. Would a second coat in a few days improve the durability? I think I'm going to use an oil base finish also. Thanks for the suggestions.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
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    Would a second coat in a few days improve the durability?
    Probably.
    Cedar is "thirsty". A lot of the (binder) oils probably went deep into the cedar and left too little on the surface to properly work.
    A second thin coat would help there.

    Sorry to hear though that you got away from the varnish - but - I do understand why.
    IMHO - spar on cedar is a drop dead good looker.

    I just got done w/some planter boxes & a planter box rack I made out of cedar.
    I finished all of it w/4 coats of spar - from my 35 year old "stash" of McCloskey Boat-Koat.
    Man I love that stuff!

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