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Thread: help with oak bookcase top featuring built up molding

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Englewood, Florida
    Posts
    189

    help with oak bookcase top featuring built up molding

    I am designing my first piece of furniture. Will use 3/4 oak ply for sides, shelves, top and bottom. Will use 3/4 oak hardwood for faceframe and moldings. Id like to design so that top overhangs sides and front. I would prefer edging the plywood top with hardwood vs gluing hardwood boards for a solid hardwood top. Plan on shaping edge of top with router and then adding mitered moldings below the top to produce a crown molding effect. Three questions:

    1. Adding hardwood edging to plywood top. Should the edging be mitered or shoulld I have the sides butt into hardwood that runs across the front

    2. I am thinking of using either 1 inch or 2 inch wide hardwood edging glued and nailed flush with top of plywood. Suggestions?

    3. Should I shape the edges on a router table or free hand router. Do the front first and then the ends?

    Thanks for any suggestions. Bookcase approximately 72 x 30. I have table saw, router table, belt sander and ROS. Do not have thickness planer, shaper or bandsaw.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5,582
    My two cents.
    1. Miter the pieces
    2. I would glue and spline or biscuit the edging, unless you profile the edging first. You don't want to hit the nails with your router bit.
    3. See 2 above. If profiling all at once after glue attach then follow the edge all around. Note - be careful of splintering when routing the profile on the oak either on the finished top or as pieces to be mitered and applied later. You need to take multiple light passes to avoid sometimes nasty tearout.

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