Expensive or Cheap

[Mark L Tucker]

Hi.

I started woodworking a few months ago and need some new tools, but I'm wondering whether, at this stage, to buy a few cheaper tools to get up and running, or do you think it's a better idea to go for something a bit more expensive and usually of higher quality.

I know if I buy cheaper tools I'll probably need to replace them, which would be the time I would go for a higher quality tool. But would it be a better idea to buy the more expensive tools, which should, in theory, last me a lifetime?

I know that say a Lie Nielsen chisel is a lot higher quality than one from a local DIY store, but with things like saws, does it really make a difference if I spend £150 or £30?

Along the same vein, if I did go the cheaper route, would antique tools be a better option than a cheap new tool?

Any help would be very appreciated.

Thanks.

[Prashun Patel]

This is a good question with no easy answer.

You have to do yr research PER TOOL. In general, I find you get what you pay for. However, there are a number of areas where you can find quality lower/moderate priced tools.

This forum is a great resource for research and (usually unbiased) testimonial that has informed most of my purchases in the past 3 years. If you can't find the answer through search, post a particular question, and you'll get what you need.

Since you mentioned chisels and saws, here's my advice:

Chisels: A good 'starter' set might be the Narex brand. I have a set, and they've performed very well for a great price.

Saws: There is a big difference between brands and types of saws. What kind of work are you looking to do? In general, I'm one to buy cheap with the 'roughing' saws used for general carpentry and bring rough lumber down to size. But detail work like dovetailing is IMHO easiest with a quality saw.

Last, I humbly submit that your taste and appreciation for tools will evolve as you acquire them. So, I advise you to acquire them one at a time, as your projects demand. This will avoid spending on things you think you might need.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Good quality new tools like Lie-Nielsen planes appear to maintain their value in most markets, so even if you decide down the road that you no longer want or need them, you can get most of what you paid into them. Since you're pricing things in quid, I'm guessing you're in the UK. I'm not as familiar with the prices for used tools there, but the market is large and well developed, with lots of boot sales and dealers. There appear to be quite a few very nice British-made back saws, chisels, Record- and Stanley- planes. For new chisels you may also want to look into Ashley Iles--I have them and I'm not sure you could do better for quality or price, and since they're domestic they'd probably be cheaper for you than for me. They're available in the UK from Matthew at Workshop Heaven. Check out Alice Frampton's website "Cornish Workshop" and blog "Musings from the Workbench." I'll bet she'd steer you in the right direction.

[Zach England]

It's good there is a thread about this, since it has never been addressed before.

[Zach England]

Was that snarky? My bad.

[mickey cassiba]

How's it go? Buy quality, cry once, buy cheap, cry always...or something like that. That's my philosophy anyway. I've been tempted several times, to get a 'starter version" but, either my friends or good old common sense has kept the wallet in the pocket.
That's my two cents, and they're stayin' in my pocket, 'til I find something worth spending them on.

[john brenton]

There are good reasons to go with quality new tools, or quality antique tools in need of a little TLC...but there is not a single reason to go with a cheap new tool. It is still amazes me to see how worthless new crummy tools are. I don't know how they get away with it, or why. It's like they don't care how bad their reputation gets, or how unsatisfied the customer is with the product, as long as they sell it. Buck Brothers is great example...they once made really fine tools. I mean, with a little care in manufacturing their cheap-o planes and chisels at Home Depot could be worth it. But they're not.

I'm a many hobbied guy, and I remember when I first started playing with wood I was careful not to load up on tools for a hobby that I might not even like (but you have to have the tools before you know if you like it or not...sneaky.) I did all older tools, with a few misses, but mostly hits. It is true that the LN and LV tools don't lose much value, but they don't generally go UP in value, whereas a rehabbed tool can. You can by a lot of three planes, fix one up and sell it for the price you paid for all three. That's how I built my arsenal, and every once and a while I'll upgrade. If I see a nice tool for a steal on ebay, I'll buy it and sell the tool I currently own for the same price as the one I just bought.

The last time I did that was a while ago, but it was a never used Ulmia 24" jointer that went for $60 (retails for $240). I bought it, then put one of my other two jointers up and sold it for $60. It was of much less value, in fairly beat up condition...I had paid $40. It takes patience and lots of watching, but it's fun. It's the "hybrid" hobby of woodworking/tool fawning.

One might say that it's stupid to do that, and it's better just to buy the top of the line ONCE and be done with it, but (a) not all of us have hundreds of dollars to spend on tools, and (b) learning to rehab is a valuable skill. If I had to do it all over again, I don't think I'd spring for the "premium" tools.

[john brenton]

I'm hoping that someone brings up the topics of sharpening, wood vs. metal planes, or which tools are absolutely "essential".

It's good there is a thread about this, since it has never been addressed before.

[Pam Niedermayer]

Aside from the economics of buying good tools, which is significant, is the fact you're a beginner and probably have no idea how a good tool works. The few LN and LV tools I've bought (when I buy new I usually buy Japanese stuff) worked right out of the box. That's of great value.

Pam

[Sean Hughto]

I recommend approaching it like this. Think of the first couple of projects you hope to make. Set about acquiring the best tools you can afford to accomplish those projects. If you can afford Lie-Nielsen, great. If you can't, vintage tools are plentiful and very inexpensive for high quality users (as opposed to collectibles). Rinse and repeat.

[Andy Mail]

I spent a lot of time some years back researching planes on the internet looking for the best bang for the buck (pound?). I ended up buying a wood jointer from Steve Knight, and couldn't have been happier. I am a real fan of wood planes, and would recommend you consider them.

Steve now sells kits, two of which I'm currently building. Another really good option is to build your own. David Finck has a really well done book about building Krenov style hand planes. You build the wood body and buy the iron and chip breaker online. It's a good project, and you end up with a nice tool.

Finally, wood planes aren't uncommon in the wild. You can easily find a used one and tune it up.

[Sean Hughto]

I really like Steve's planes too. I was just using a roughing plane he made for me a bunch this weekend. It was one of the last he built. He put a vera (argentine lignum) sole on it at my request. It is a great plane. I sold my jointer in part because I so enjoy using this plane to true a face before sending it through the thicknesser.

[Johnny Kleso]

I thought at one time quality was the way to go but I no longer think that..

I have several China made machines and they work just fine for as much as I use them..

I only own a two Lie-Nielson planes and see little advantage in buying a $500 jointer plane vs a $150 Stanley.. If you have the money yeah sure spend it,I'd buy Holtey's.. Unless you make money because you enjoy counting it

IMHO its far better to have any tool to use than to be saving to buy an expensive one when you need it..

Better to drive nails with a rock and be saving for a $100 hammer or be using a Dollar Store Hammer?

[Andy Mail]

I couldn't disagree more. Quality tools make the process enjoyable. Lousy tools are beyond frustrating. A iron or sole that isn't flat, chisels that dull easily, saws that don't cut well are all reasons for a beginning woodworker to decide this isn't for him.

Now, if we're talking about expensive versus inexpensive, I can agree to a point. I've seen some Chinese tools that work well. I love my Knight Toolworks jointer, and that wasn't expensive. Quality doesn't necessarily mean expensive, but I will always reach for quality.

[Chris Griggs]

It really depends on the type of the tool and the specific maker of the "less expensive" tool. Most of the time when I've skimped I've regretted it, but then again, there are times when a cheap tool is better then no tool at all. For example, a couple years ago I bought a 6 piece set of Woodriver chisels, that were on sale for like $40. The steel doesn't hold an edge as long as a better chisel, but they are pretty decent users and didn't require much prep. Certainly better than having no chisel. Also, they were cheap enough that I didn't regret purchasing them even though I started to "outgrow" them in less then a year. Can never have too many chisels....

On the other hand when I bought a router (the tailed kind, which I now barley use), I purchased a Hitachi instead of Bosch to save about $50 and while the Hitachi is a decent tool, I've always regretted not spending the extra money on the better tool.

I think where you really need to be careful is "mid-range" tools. There are some that give you a lot of bang for your buck, but others that are fairly pricey in there own right, but not a lot better than cheap tools.

My advice, make a list of the types of tools you want/need. Look at the different options out there for each tool, and then ask about the specific tools. It can REALLY depend. I will add, if you can afford all premium tools right off the bat, than by all means by the best the first time, you won't regret it. If you can't afford all or any premium tools, than really do your homework, and prioritize (there's no need to spend $200-$300 on a jack plane that will be used for rough work, save that money for a finish smoother)