I think Im getting sold on the cabinet saw. I found a unisaw on craigslist for less than $1000.00. Its a 1946 model...or so it was advertised. The thing that surprised me was that it had the tube type fence...same as came with my contractors saw. I loathed that fence...bought a Delta T2...not crazy about it either. As I mentioned getting heel marks...I always felt that the wood wasnt moving straight and moved in some way to cause the heel marks (which are mostly at the bottom). I have used featherboards in front of the blade...and behind it...it helps. Does grizzly have stores around the country? I am in a small town and live where trucks cant come...I dont know if I can find a place that will let me have Grizzly drop it on their dock. Then there is the issue of getting it home! I really appreciate your help!
Honestly, although I usually recommend buying used on CL and have scored some awesome deals... at this point I do think it's better to purchase a new Grizzly (or other if you have higher budget) with the riving knife as well as the improved dust collection. I hate to say it, as a PM66 owner, but those two health/safety improvements make the used market much less desirable.
Go for the Grizzly.
Thread on "How do I pickup/move XXX Saw?" http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=597898
Compilation of "Which Band Saw to buy?" threads http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...028#post692028
Grizzly has 3 showrooms :
Muncy, PA
Springfield, MO
Bellingham, WA
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
if you are getting heel marks with your t-2, it's not adjusted properly. i have one on an emerson built 10" c-man that delivers dead on rips with no heal marks (unless i get careless as the workpiece passes the blade)
the first 2 pics are on the infeed side and the last 2 are on the outfeed side. note the difference in the readings.
it sounds like you've inspected your saw thoroughly, and if you're committed to a move up, in your price range, the griz, 0691 gets great reviews, as does the customer and tech support of the company. they enjoy a very good reputation and based on comments i've seen on this and other boards, their products deliver good value. if i were to move from my emerson built c-man and ridgid contractor saws, grizzly would be my first stop.
BTW, that 1946 unisaw you mentioned likely is a right tilt, of which i've never been a fan. safety is better served with a left tilt, where the workpiece can't get trapped by the blade during a rip cut.
Last edited by Joseph Tarantino; 04-17-2011 at 10:54 AM.
I agree that something must be wrong with your T2. I had one on a contractor saw and it was great. With riving kinves and better dust collection, I don't think it is worth it to buy used. I sold my Uniasw for those reasons and bought a G1023RL. I don't regret that decision. Buy from Grizzly and pick it up at the freight terminal if you don't think a delivery truck can make it to you.
Hi and thanks for the input...Im down to deciding between the Grizzly 1023RL and the G0690. I dont want the added router table extension as I have four tables now! Ill buy the mobile base for whichever I decide...Im leaning to the 1023RL. I am at least 500 miles from any of Grizzly's warehouses. I think I can have it dropped off in a town 30 miles away...and do the pickup truck from there. About putting featherboards behind the blade...I leave enough to trim to size...less than a blade's width...and put the featherboard behind the blade to hold it snug to the fence. The fence, by the way, is dead on accurate front and back...I use Ed Bennets TSAligner Jr. However...there is a .005 bulge in the fence just at the back of the blade. The blade itself is within .005 parallel to the miter slot. The specs on the T2 said it was accurate within 1/64"...that sounds like a lot to me. One thing I am looking forward to losing is the right tilt of the contractors saw...I never could figure just why they did that...must be a production money saving thing. Its been a 20 year annoyance to me!
There are many threads about the G1023 vs the G0690. The G1023RL is a great saw. I hear the G0690 is ok too. If you have any questions about the G1023RL feel free to ask here or in a PM.
This is my hybrid Delta. It has done everything I have ever asked it to do. CL buy for 500.
Hi...the good saws I found on CL were mostly 3 phase...one was 16-18" blade (scary)...a few were 7-9000K production type saws. I'm going with the 1023RL...I only hope they have it for immediate shipment. Ill have to find a loading dock but I dont think that will be a big obstacle...also my two sons and son-in-law and maybe more...500+ pounds! I may have to shore up my shop floor too! Sincerely...I want to thank all of you for your input and persuading me to go with a cabinet saw. I got hybrid in my mind when I read so much good stuff about the Ridgid 4511...I am sold on a cabinet saw now. I hope someone on CL takes a shine to my contractors saw! Thanks again!!
Thanks for your helps guys (and possible gals!) My 1023RL is on scheduled to get here Friday. I sold my contractors saw today...so I am READY to make some sawdust!!
Congratulations Lynn.
Just my $.02 but I think cabinet saw is the way to go. Good power, mass, dust collection, Big table.
PHM
Lynn,
Have you explored having Grizzly deliver to the freight company's terminal and then you could pick it up from there? Depending on where the terminal is it might be easier (and less risk of damage) than a secondary drop off. You would also have access to a freight dock and some loading help. Perhaps the freight company and you could cut a separate deal for local delivery on a LTL basis.
Paul
The 1023 is a solid choice. I went that way years ago, just 1023SL. I would think the 1023 must in some respects be somewhat of a clone of the Delta Unisaw (certainly held as a gold standard design for years) as I was able to put a Delta Unisaw Biesemyer splitter on mine without any modifications. I had a Delta contractor saw before that. No need to upgrade ever again.