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Thread: Advise needed for unfreezing drill chuck

  1. #1
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    Advise needed for unfreezing drill chuck

    I have an old Goodell Pratt no 5 drill. It works fine but I cannot dissamble the chuck to clean up the internals and replace the springs if needed. The chuck is Patd date 1895 and has three visible springs between the three jaws. I cannot unscrew the inner part from the outer shell part (terminology?). Is there a safe way to unstick these two pieces? Perhaps soak them in some kind of rust remover? The chuck is not rusted, on the outside, and the jaws in the chuck tighten and loosen over a drill bit quite smoothly. I have soaked the chuck in WD40 for several days, but no luck. I also assume I am trying to turn the inner part in the correct direction. With the chuck held in a vise nose down I try to turn the inner part in a counterclockwise direction. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    With the chuck held in a vise nose down I try to turn the inner part in a counterclockwise direction.
    Is it possible that holding the shell in the vise is compressing it and thwarting your efforts?

    My other thought is if it is working, why try to fix it?

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
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    Why try to fix it? Well I guess I am just a tad anal retentive. Everything else comes apart and cleans up nicely and I just would also like the last part (chuck) to do the same. Knowing myself, I will never be quite satisfied if I cannot solve this problem.

  4. #4
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    I would try putting a little heat on the outer part of the chuck. Propane torch or a heat gun would work. Make sure its pretty well dry of any solvent, WD-40 etc. first.

    Jim B

  5. #5
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    Success! After the chuck had been soaking in WD40 for about 2 days I still couldn't open it. However I then lightly tapped around the circumfrence of the chuck with a hammer, put the chuck back in the vise and it unscrewed with very little resistance. I cleaned everything (the three springs are in good shape) polished the interior surfaces so they slide smoothly, oiled it and reassembled it. Works beautifully.

  6. #6
    You need to make some wooden jaws to hold the chuck shell with out buggering it all up..
    You also need a Penetrating Oil like Kroil which is the best
    https://secure.concentric.com/kanola...l#anchor173855

    WD-40 is a anti-rust oil not a penetrating oil

    Let the oil set for a few days if that doesnt work try some heat and more oil

    http://www.kanolabs.com/
    aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource

  7. #7
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    PB Blaster is another good penetrationg oil.

    http://blastercorporation.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4

    Like Kroil you can get it by the gallon or is an aresol can. Unlike Kroil you can find it locally.
    Chuck

    When all else fails increase hammer size!
    "You can know what other people know. You can do what other people can do."-Dave Gingery

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Louisville, Ky
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    I just got a hand drill and block plane the other day in an antique shop. The chuck was frozen on it and would not turn, A good soak of pb blaster worked. The prongs? stick a bit when closed up but I lightly sanded and some wax. I probably could take the bottom off and clean it that way but so far I don't dare )

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Sometimes you need something to cut through dried & frozen up grease & oil, sometimes there are other materials jamming up the works. Krud Kutter ( great degreaser/cleaner), Goof Off ( solvent?), 3 in 1 oil, kerosene for soaking and Naval Jelly (rust) ( all available at Lowes) are some of the ones I have found useful. Still I have not gotten the Lion Chuck on one of my Millers Falls braces broken loose.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 03-30-2011 at 10:04 AM.

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