Removing "stuck" router bit

[julian abram]

I was wondering if you guys had a "magical" cure for removing a router bit stuck in the collet? A couple months ago I purchased a used Porter Cable 3518 to install in a router table. It came with a 1/2"x1-1/4" straight bit installed. Now I know why the bit came with the router, I'm guessing the previous owner could not remove it either. Anyhow, I've loosened the collet nut, soaked it WD40 and tried to pull the bit out with channel locks.
The bit is still locked in tight. Any suggestions on how to remove this? thanks-

[Steve Rowe]

Try continuing to loosen the collet nut. Later models have a self release collet.

[Chris Fournier]

Easy and this question has been answered here in the last six weeks! Cut a thin piece of hardwood in the shape of a "U" with the space between the arms of the U being slightly over the width of the cutter shank diameter and the thickness being just enough to slip in between the collet face and the router bit. Now put this U between the collet and the bit and loosen the collet and pop goes the stickey bit. Never fails!

[Joe Watson]

Try giving the bit a light tap into the collet, in the same direction as if you where sliding a new bit into the collet.

If/When you do get the bit out, i would check the under side of the collet nut along with the collet, might be time to replace both of them.

[Dick Phillip]

You may want to read this ......

http://www.newwoodworker.com/stuckbits.html

Dick

[pat warner]

I'm thinking 518? No PC router with that motor number.
If 518, then take collet and suspend between 2 pieces of equal thickness wood under the drill press quill. Put 3/8 pin in the chuck and press the bugger out of the collet. Then scrap the collet.

[julian abram]

Sorry I typo-ed the model number, it is a PC 7518. Thanks for all the suggestions, I cut a "U" shaped piece of oak and popped it right out like Chris said. Again thanks for the help!

[Dave Lehnert]

You may want to read this ......

http://www.newwoodworker.com/stuckbits.html

Dick

This is a good link. Hope you take he time to read.

[Myk Rian]

Use something besides WD-40. It isn't made to loosen rust.

[Karl Brogger]

Holy crap you guys make things difficult sometimes.

Bang on the loosened nut with the wrench.

Presto.

[Edward P. Surowiec]

To prevent a bit from getting stuck, insert a small rubber grommet into to the Collet this allows a router bit to hit the bottom and not being trapped.

[Bill White]

To prevent a bit from getting stuck, insert a small rubber grommet into to the Collet this allows a router bit to hit the bottom and not being trapped.

Don't you mean an "o" ring?
Bill

[Bob Wingard]

The "O-ring" trick keeps the collet from trying to grab on the chamfer of the shank, which can cause bits to loosen and fly out on their own.

I believe he really meant grommet which is normally dropped down into the armature shaft to keep the bit from bottoming out .. BUT .. what does a grommet do to prevent corrosion from forming between dissimilar metals when a user carelessly left the bit installed for an extended period of time ???

The grommet trick prevents the end of the bit from bottoming out which causes it's own set of problems, but it is not a universal cure ... my BOSCH 1615EVS has a center hole in the collet end that's about 2" deep. It would take a dozen grommets to fill that thing up ... instead, I cut an appropriate length of 1/2" "POLYCORD" .. a solid urethane product that has just a tad of "give" to accomplish the same thing. I think too often, the "concept" of making the depth of the hole shallower is overshadowed by the "method" of so doing. I really needed (wanted) to lessen the depth of the hole, but the grommet trick would never do in my case. Another variable comes into play also ... some bits have a much longer shank than others, and my urethane "plug" has to be removed to accommodate them. The plug does work wonderfully with bit sets that are "matched" for length, like the CMT/Sommerfeld offset tongue & groove bits. I can swapp back & forth without ever needing to adjust the depth of cut.

[Neil Brooks]

To prevent a bit from getting stuck, insert a small rubber grommet into to the Collet this allows a router bit to hit the bottom and not being trapped.

+1

I bought a BUNCH (for pennies, in total) of 1/4" and 1/2" ID O-rings, exactly for that reason.

Also, before AND after I use EACH bit, I clean it pretty thoroughly -- usually with WD-40 (removing the O-ring first, as WD tends to eat rubber), AND blow out the collet with compressed air.

[Greg Portland]

The "O-ring" trick keeps the collet from trying to grab on the chamfer of the shank, which can cause bits to loosen and fly out on their own.

The O-ring does NOT go on the bit, it sits at the bottom of the collet (exactly how you described the grommet). If anyone is using a technique where the o-ring is between the collet and bit then they should stop immediately.