Festool Guide Rail Question

[Ruhi Arslan]

I have a recent "need" itch to get the Festool circular saw. After reading many old threads about 55 vs 75 choices, I am inclined to get the 75. I've noticed that 55 is the most preferred one mainly for the relative ease of mobility compared to 75. It is not a major concern for me since I have no use for it other than in the shop to rip 4 by 8s. I've finished a built-in storage system which used 13 sheets of 3/4" 4x8. I found that the most difficult part was "accurate" roughing. Since I plan to construct many more built-ins, I would be able to justify a tool more easily suited for the task of managing large sheets. I am hoping that I have to make one cut which is ready for gluing with Festool. Only other "shortcomings" of 75 over the 55 are the lack of ability to install a side skirt to reduce dust on 75 and the RPM range. I think I can live without either. My question is mainly about the rails. I definitely would want a rail which is is good for ripping full shets. 75" and a secondary 55" rail would give me what I want. How are they connected together? Would they join together and become as good as a single rail with the available extension kit? Would it be worth to get one long (106~118") and have another short one instead of 75+55" combo?
I don't imagine there is ever a sale on these???

[Tom Cornish]

There was a 10% off sale on track saws last summer. That was a one-time deal, and Festool is pretty stingy with sales, so there's no guarantee of a sale any time soon.

I have a TS75 with the included 75" rail, and a 55" rail. They join together with a pair of bars that run in the slots of the rails. I leave mine stuck in the 75" rail since I often just use the 55" rail. When I want to join them together, I may or may not bother to screw them down to the 55" rail, depending on how important the cut is.

The extrusions on my rails don't line up perfectly, but it doesn't seem to matter - I recently did a 12' cut in Melamine with the rails stuck together and the cut was perfect. Just use a straight edge to make sure the splinter guards are aligned on your two rails and you'll be all set.

I went through the same dilemma about the TS75 vs the TS55 and chose the 75 for greater power and depth of cut potential. I briefly had the TS55, and traded it on the TS75. Dust collection is definitely better on the TS55, but since I mostly use the saw in the shop, and due to the plunge design will never do crazy things that carpenters do over their heads with their circ saws by holding the blade guard open, I didn't feel the extra weight mattered. I'm still happy I bought the 75 and would do it again.

[Jamie Cowan]

Hurry up. Festool prices are going up in March.

[Jon McElwain]

I've got the 75. I went with it like Tom for the extra power and depth of cut. I am glad that I did, I recently had to cut some 10/4 oak from the end of a church pew to level it on a slanted floor. I could not have made the cut with one pass with the 55 (I don't think). The 75 is a big saw, so this particular cut was not easy, but with the guide rail it was possible and the cut was great. In a shop setting the size will not matter - seems like a heavier saw will be more stable anyway. Lots of sawdust with the 75 - not much you can do with the blade coming out of the bottom of the middle of a sheet of plywood. I do not have the 55 to compare though. The vac does pick up a lot of sawdust, so I know it is getting some of the sawdust produced. I have got a 75" rail and a 42" rail. I have never connected them because I generally use the table saw to rip plywood. Crosscutting is another story and I am really glad to have the track saw for that.

[James Baker SD]

I have the 55, but use it almost entirely for sheet goods so its power and depth of cut are fine. I bought the 2nd 55" rail and the connectors for cutting in the 8' length, but find that, good as Festool quality is, the alignment is a problem for me. If possible I want the track saw cut to be my final cut, so I have ordered (not yet received) the 106" rail that will allow me to make the 8' cuts more accurately.

James (hobbyist in Van's poll)

[Jeff Monson]

I have the 75 saw and use 2 55" rails connected for ripping sheetgoods. The rail connectors are good but you must be careful not to overtighten the setscrews in the connectors (dont ask how I know). I purchased the additional 55" rail but would not do it again, I would much rather have one 55" rail for crosscuts and a 110" for ripping. Those 2 rails would cover all sheetgood cuts and I wouldnt have to bother with the connectors anymore. Its a big investment to start with, but I'd pony up the extra money for a long rail and not have to bother with connectors. You always have the short rail that comes with the saw.

[Greg Portland]

I have the 118" rail and the 55" rail. Keep in mind that having some overlap on each end is nice for keeping the saw guides fully locked into the rail for the full cut length. The 118" will allow you to cut a 8x4 corner to corner; if you need more capacity a 16' rail is sold.

I prefer avoiding the connectors because I never have to worry about guide accuracy & I can swap between the rails quickly while breaking down the sheets. Be sure to purchase some zero clearance inserts for the saw and use one exclusively for plywood ripping. When you adjust the cut depth the zero clearance insert becomes less effective. With one depth setting for all plywood cutting I am able to get a very clean cut each time (use a 22mm depth setting IIRC).

[Chris Padilla]

I have the older 65 and a long 108" (I think) rail. Good stuff.

[Erik Christensen]

I have the 75 and would get it again over the 55. I use it with the 118" & 55" rails to break down sheet goods but also on a custom MFT table as a large panel type saw. The extra depth of cut is not needed often, but when it does it is a project saver as nothing else works as safe/well for some types of cuts. for instance - I like to make large structural members out of several layers of 3/4" baltic birch that I glue together in my vacuum bag - the 75 cuts 3 layers with perfect results.

As far as dust collection - can't compare it to the 55 as I have never used one; but the only time i see dust after a cut is when I am trimming an edge and the right side of the blade is exposed.

[Chris Jackson]

I also own the 55 and love it!!! Fantastic dust collection and I have used it to rip and crosscut 8/4 Hard Maple and doesn't even break a sweat!

As for the rails I have two of the 55" rails with connectors (metal keys with threaded tension screws to fit) the set up works well and in honesty, it is a rare occasion that use it....typically for a long rip cut like that I will use my Tablesaw and then finish the breakdown with the Festool.

My 2 cents...buy the TS 55, and take the extra money to get the accessory kit with clamps, angle attachment, spare strips, all in a nice Systainer.

Chris

[Jim Becker]

Ruhl, I have two of the shorter rails and while they join together just fine, I eventually just ordered an 8'+ rail anyway. I keep it on the top layer of my lumber rack, so it's not in the way. I don't use it often but when I have used it, it came in darn handy.

Relative to the saw, I have the 55 since my primary use for the Festool saw is "out of the shop" most of the time for dealing with sheet goods and other thinner materials. I have my trusty old (and I do mean old!) orange B&D 7 1/4" circular saw for rough cutting 2x material for home improvement projects.

[Craig Michael]

If what you do mostly is sheet goods, save the money and the the TS 55. The only reason for the 75 is the extra power and cut capacity. I've cut 1 3/4" jatoba with my 55 using the fine finish blade, not even the rip blade and it cut through it with no problems at all. So it has plenty of power for anything, the 75 has more and a deeper cut. But the trade off is higher cost and a much larger saw. I love the size of the 55, the 75 unless needed is just too large for really want to use. I use my 55 almost always in the shop.

For the rails, I join two but will get a single long rail at some point. Check out the makita rails. The makita rail is the same thing as the festool one with the added piece for the makita saws anti tip. But other than that, the guide rails are exactly the same. The extra aluminum lip only would affect using festool accessories like the parallel guides. The festool saw will work perfectly with the makita tracks and they are quite a bit less money for the same thing.

[Ken Lustgarten]

I used to be a Festool owner. I found that the connectors did not hold good enough. It was ok for an occasional cut but when ripping down ply the rails would be out of alignment every few moves. If you are going with Festool get the longer rail. I also had an MFT and the TS55 but since I work with a mixture of hardwood and sheet goods I wished that I had gone with the TS75. In the end Festool did not meet my needs and I went with Eurekazone's track system and have been very happy. It is worth a look before you make a decision especially the new Ripsizer.

[Ruhi Arslan]

Thanks for all the replies. As I was out and about this afternoon, I stumbled across this place which happens to be a Festool dealer with a "workshop" to demo the stuff.
After trying this and that, evaluating the options, I ended up getting a 75 with 75" rail along with a 118" rail, accessory kit, fine tooth blade and a hose to adapt to my shop DC. In between the 55 and 75, although the appearance is substantially different, the weight didn't matter to me as much. 55 runs a bit quitter compared to 75. I may not be able to justify 75 over 55 for my use except the 20" longer rail built in the price but I don't think I would ever wish I had 55 instead. I attached the rails together to see how firmly they were connected. It is very solid no doubt. I understand though, it is best to attach the guides together before trimming the splinterguard which will ensure that they will match then on. I was impressed with the quality of the cuts, both straight and beveled.
What pushed me over the edge was the "first time buyer" incentive offered by the rep who happened to be there.

[Dave Mendoza]

. . . What pushed me over the edge was the "first time buyer" incentive offered by the rep who happened to be there.

I would love to hear about the first time buyer incentive your rep offered. This stuff is rarely on sale and any savings goes a long way.