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Thread: First Panel Saw (Rehab) Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    256

    First Panel Saw (Rehab) Question

    Hey All,
    Delving deeper and deeper into the dark neandering depths- I have gotten my first two old panel saws: One a Harvey Peace no. 45 (I think) Crosscut and the other a Disston D-8 rip.

    The Peace has a beautiful handle that couldn't fit my hand any better, but the blade (while straight and sharp) is probably missing about 1"-2" of width, and i suspect the end was cut off at some point. The D-8 has a fine blade with a decent etch, but the handle is split in couple of places. The plan is to make a new blade for the Peace and a New handle for the Disston. I think it is very fitting to start with the Peace first, considering that this saw was made at the Vulcan Saw Works which was located half a dozen blocks away from my studio in Brooklyn!

    I was wondering if anybody had any thoughts about a source/alloy for the steel for a new sawplate?

    Also has anybody ever tried to sandblast a new etch on blade? I sandblast glass all of the time using a photo-resist and I was going to attempt the same technique to create a "new" etch.

    peace1.jpgpeace3.jpgpeace2.jpg
    Last edited by Niels Cosman; 02-27-2011 at 8:12 PM.
    "Aus so krummem Holze, als woraus der Mensch gemacht ist, kann nichts ganz Gerades gezimmert werden."

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
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    What am I missing about the Peace saw that requires a new saw plate? I would keep the old one at least through another sharpening or two.

    As for the photo resist and sand blasting, I would be surprised if something similar wasn't used originally. They may have used a photo resist and acid, but similar methods.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    528
    Looks to me like there's more than enough steel left to resharpen a few times, why not use the blade you already have?

    Mike Wenzloff sells sawplate blanks, optionally with teeth cut to whatever you want.

    Alternatively, you could buy some 1095 spring steel from McMaster-Carr and file the teeth from scratch.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    256
    Hey guys,
    Nothing wrong with the blade, and I am definitely not getting rid of it. I am more interested in the process of making a new one from scratch. Sort of a stepping stone into making others Also I would like to add a couple of inches to the blade bringing it to 24"
    Cheers,
    Niels
    "Aus so krummem Holze, als woraus der Mensch gemacht ist, kann nichts ganz Gerades gezimmert werden."

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    256
    Here's a mockup of my "peace-plan" har har har
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "Aus so krummem Holze, als woraus der Mensch gemacht ist, kann nichts ganz Gerades gezimmert werden."

  6. #6
    Etching is done Ellecto-Chemicaly and is a very shallow depth and depending on polarity it is Black or Clear..
    I have a http://www.markingmethods.com/mark300a.html etcher though I have not used it in a few years and should sell it to someone that can put it to use marking saws and blades..
    aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource

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