Just tried my hand at the Scary Sharp method for the first time.

[keith micinski]

And things couldn't have gone better. I have 25 dollars in sand paper and a jig to hold the blade. I already had a piece of granite backsplash laying around. I read a bunch people complaining about getting the paper stuck down to the glass or granite evenly but I didn't use anything at all. Once I sprayed the paper with water it stuck to the granite perfectly. I started off flattening the back of the blade and the bevel with 320 since it appeared to be in pretty good shape. then I went to 800 then a 1000 and then 2000. Now that the initial work is done I don't think it would take more then two or three minutes to slide my granite out spray it with some water set the blade in the jig and run the blade across it to clean it up. I could shave the back of my hand with the blade when I was done. This plane is a cheesy stanley block plane I got from Menard's years ago for about 25 bucks so I can only imagine that with a higher quality blade and plane I would have achieved even better results. I was just about to pony up the money for a Worksharp 3000 and the wide blade attachment but this was so easy to use and the results turned out so nice I don't see why I would need anything else.One thing I have read is that finishing a blade off with Jewelers Rouge makes the blade even sharper some how. Would I just get a piece of Leather, apply the rouge to it and then use the jig the same way I do with the sand paper?
One thing I will say I didn't like about this process was trying to flatten out the bottom of the plane. I started at 220 because I didn't think it was that bad. I think I should have been a little more aggressive. It is really close but I don't think it is all the way flat. My arms just couldn't take it any more plus I really wanted to try sharpening the blade up.

[Zach England]

"Scary sharp" works, but all roads lead to water stones in the end. At least my road led to water stones.

[keith micinski]

I hope I don't get as involved into sharpening as I do most things. To be honest with you I don't plan on using these planes very much so they shouldn't need sharpened all that much. I am mainly bored around the house right now and this has been a fun little project so far.

[keith micinski]

Plus, man the plane cut pretty nice so even though I know it could be sharper with other methods I don't know why I would need it to be any sharper.

[Jim Koepke]

Plus, man the plane cut pretty nice so even though I know it could be sharper with other methods I don't know why I would need it to be any sharper.

You say that now. A year from now your skills will be improved and you will wonder what you were thinking.

Looks good for just starting.

Don't let your neighbors know or you will be inundated with blades to sharpen.

jtk

[Matt Radtke]

Plus, man the plane cut pretty nice so even though I know it could be sharper with other methods I don't know why I would need it to be any sharper.

Heh. Depending on the wood you use, you might be sharpening a lot or a little, but the more you use your planes, the quicker you'll note when they just are quite cutting optimally. So you go sharpen....

Remember, some of us will shave a small patch of arm hair to check for sharpness. How quickly do go through or resharpen your shaving razor.........?

[Adam Cormier]

I sharpen each plane or chisel immediately after I am done using it. That way it is ready the next time I reach for it. Also, by doing this, sharpening only takes a small amount of my time. I find leaving it leads to me getting frustrated that the tool isn't performing as good as it should and it also takes much longer to get razor sharp.

[Mike Siemsen]

When I flatten plane soles I start out with a 50 grit sanding belt that I cut open and glue down. Carpet tape or spray glue works well for this. You will never get anywhere with 220.
All sharpening systems do the same thing, use the one you like.
I live in a place where it freezes in the winter, never leave your waterstones where they can freeze.
Don't eat yellow snow.
Mike

[keith micinski]

Ya that 220 was a bit ambitious. It really wasn't that bad though or so I thought. I am probably going to get it flat the rest of the way later tonight. I just needed to give my arms a break.

[Jeff Bartley]

Keith,
Another paper to try is the abrasive paper from Lee Valley. I use their 15, 5, and .5 micron papers and have been very happy (but I've never used a waterstone).
And I should note that I started sharpening much, much more frequently after I started getting really sharp tools. I think I'd just walk away if I had to use dull tools!
Jeff

[keith micinski]

I am also thinking about doing more sharpening maintenance after every use so that I don't have to spend a lot of time all at once.

[Joe Angrisani]

Keith.... In your OP you had a question about rouge. Cut a piece of 3/4" MDF about 6"x15" and draw on half of it with the rouge. Then use your guide just as if it was a finer paper. Which it kinda is.

[john brenton]

You haven't yet had your expectations of sharp forever altered by using an iron honed at 8000. You can go higher and you can strop on clean leather, but straight off the 8000 is all i see making sense for something that you won't be shhaving your face with.

Many wood workers have done great work with less....but the ease of the push and the surface you leave behind with a finely honed and polished edge is a whole other world.

[keith micinski]

Keith.... In your OP you had a question about rouge. Cut a piece of 3/4" MDF about 6"x15" and draw on half of it with the rouge. Then use your guide just as if it was a finer paper. Which it kinda is.

Thanks Joe I'll give that a shot. Can I get that Rouge at a local place or do I have to order it online?

[David Weaver]

The green stuff that's $2-$3 at sears works fine. It's at least as fine as a finish stone, not quite as fine as the stuff LV and the woodworking retailers sell.