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Thread: Anybody using a Hoffman dovetail machine??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Montrose Colorado (SW Corner)
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    89

    Anybody using a Hoffman dovetail machine??

    Hello,

    I have an opportunity to get a Hoffman dovetail machine at an incredible price, and wondered if anyone out there is using theirs, and if so, what for, and how do you like it?


    Thanks!!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
    Posts
    1,933
    I use an MU2-P for the most basic purpose - joining miters in flat material. For me, this is mostly doors. I also do picture frames, simple face frames, etc. I have tested the joint strength and found it to be at least equal to cope and stick for cabinet doors.
    JR

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Montrose Colorado (SW Corner)
    Posts
    89
    Do you find that your clients have a problem with the visibility of the dovetail keys on the backside of your mitered doors??

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
    Posts
    1,933
    Not so far. If anyone raises the issue, I try to frame it as a sign of craftsmanship - people are used to being told that dovetails are superior for drawer boxes, so it becomes a feature.

    The next step up in miter door production is a pretty hefty investment...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Montrose Colorado (SW Corner)
    Posts
    89
    Sounds reasonable, dovetails seem to be the sign of craftsmanship in the public eye.

    Can you set the keys flush at glue up, or do you end up sanding the door to bring everything flush?

    Do you always use the plastic keys, or do you sometimes use the wooden variety?

    What kind of saw do you use to cut your miters?

    Thanks for your input, this helps me evaluate this machine purchase.

    Jason

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
    Posts
    1,933
    The depth stop for the router is accurate enough to set it up so that the keys bottom out flush (or slightly proud to sand flush later). Or you can cut a bit deeper and try to flush the keys up as you tap them in. For production, you do need to sand after assembly for consistency. At this point in my business, everything goes through a wide belt anyway.

    I have not tried the wooden keys. If you have the proper setup, you can mill them yourself and flush cut them, but accuracy is pretty important.

    I use a CTD double miter saw for this type of work. When I started out, I had a couple of DeWalt saws set up for complimentary 45 deg cuts. The CTD is much more consistent and cuts very cleanly. They pop up on the used market with some regularity. Pistorius makes a nice saw as well.

    I just took a couple of quick photos of a frame that I made with a leftover door that was already finished. So this shows the cut quality and registration on parts that were not sanded after assembly. Sorry for the low res, but hopefully this helps your decision one way or the other. It is a neat machine and is quite good at this task.



    JR

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Montrose Colorado (SW Corner)
    Posts
    89
    JR,

    Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experience. Looks like a pretty cool machine, I think I will make a play for the one I found.

    I am curious, where do you find the best deals on used machinery? I usually end up looking at craigslist, but I have heard of good deals at auctions?

    Thanks again,

    Jason

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
    Posts
    1,933
    IRS (Industrial Recovery Service) auctions, local auction companies, MachineryMax.com, and used equipment dealers (most of whom are willing to haggle).

    I once found an SCMI shaper on eBay that was less than 10 miles from my house, and bought it.
    JR

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