Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: A Cabinet Maker's Kitchen

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    an hour north of NYC, (Carmel, NY)
    Posts
    118

    A Cabinet Maker's Kitchen

    I’ve written before about remaking every room in my home since we bought it 10 years ago.

    The old kitchen was in the back of the house with a large bay window overlooking the backyard. The room was small. 13ft by 13ft. Adjacent to it was a diningroom, also 13′ X 13′. I removed the wall between the two rooms and planned my new, eat-in kitchen.






    shorter cabs to sit under window w/ legs to vent baseboard heat




    Over the years, I had learned a number of things about how to make cabinets and furniture more substantial, richer looking, with bolder detail. I wanted to get away from the look of commercial cabinetry with it’s repetition of similar cabs, all having a single drawer along the top and a pair of doors beneath, usually over-lay doors (over laps the opening) and plain, flat sidewalls.

    Instead of over-lay, we placed each door and drawer front inside the opening (‘inset’ is the way we build almost all our furniture) …but instead of flush, I set each of them back a 1/4″ from the surrounding face frame. This setback created more depth on the faces / made the cabinets even more articulated.



    thick, strong detail on the face, edges and sidewalls


    I decided to make all the exposed faces (doors, drawer fronts, face frames and sidewalls) an inch and a quarter thick. ( others are 3/4″ thick ). This created extra deep recesses for each panel.



    you won’t easily find this depth in a panel unless you visit a cathedral


    I used a rather large beading router bit (1″ diameter) to decorate each outside vertical corner. I passed the router two times. Once along each of the two adjacent sides to accomplish a large, 3/4 of a circle bead that would be seen from the front AND the side.



    This counter opening (to a garbage bag below) is for food scraps. It makes food prep easier/ finger pull recesses to remove ‘trap door’


    The counter tops we fabricated as well. I joined 2″ thick by 8″ wide planks of rock maple (better looking than butcher block) and finished them clear. We used wooden knobs and finished them clear as well.



    even the island’s back is handsomely paneled


    You may notice some pictures have a barn red ‘wash’ (stain) we did originally. Three years later we painted them a a solid deep red color. I like them better this way. Ms. Hudson is not so sure.



    uneven width, paired doors gives it a hand-made look



    small carvings and pottery adorn the shelf running 16″ off the ceiling


    I made a double-tier drawer for the silverware. The top section slides back and forth to expose each half of the lower level.



    notice the small knob (in the inside of the drawer, facing up) to slide the upper tier from side to side


    Where the two room’s ceilings (former diningroom and kitchen) met, I placed a ‘transition’ beam in between as the ceilings were not in line with each other. I added more detail by installing a pair of hand made corbels where the beam met the walls on each end.



    yet another detail to make the woodwork older and richer looking


    I incorporated one more detail that I hesitated to include here because it’s SO strange but, ‘what the hell’

    A number of years ago, a family member bought us a carved wooden mask. It was painted black and gold. Didn’t fit our decor but my wife insisted we place it somewhere so I sanded it down and carved the back to fit into one of our side wall panels.



    our home is filled with indigenous art so this carved face fits right in


    We wanted the cabinets painted a dark, earthy red and stainless steel for the appliances. We glazed the walls in two tones of green and found some large (16″X16″) rustic tiles for the new floor. To match the floor, we used an earth colored, tumbled marble with a decorative inlay for the backsplash.

    We found some antique, green glass poolroom light fixtures to place over the island. They were hung from both sides of a center positioned ceiling fan. We like these better than AC to keep each room cool during the summer.



    It is difficult to find an angle that allows you to appreciate the entire kitchen. You should stop by and I’ll show you the place!


    I don’t know of a kitchen outlet that doesn’t use the word ‘custom’ in their claims. I use this kitchen to show potential clients what’s possible when it’s TRULY custom built.

    Within a few weeks, I’ll post a blog about the eat-in section of the kitchen. I just wanted to post a blog, not write a novel…

    Russell Hudson / http://www.hudsoncabinetmaking.com/ / January 2011

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Yorktown, VA
    Posts
    2,755
    Russell...I love the look. The mask in the cabinet side and the other neat details just blow me away!! Great work!!

  3. #3
    Very nice work, lots of great ideas I may be able to put to use. Thanks!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    London, Ont., Canada
    Posts
    2,200
    Stunning job. Please, post more! I'd like to see details on the doors and drawers.
    Are they frame + panel? Sheet good backing? Something else?

    (I do wish you would left-justify the text instead of center it, though!
    "It's Not About You."

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Amador City, CA
    Posts
    22
    Hi,

    Great work, thanks for posting.

    I'm in the process of trying to formulate plans to install a kitchen in my old farm house and have been influenced by your work.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    an hour north of NYC, (Carmel, NY)
    Posts
    118
    Sheet good backing. Only way to 'read' that kind of depth and still use euro hinges. As it was, I had to use 'thick door' hinges and remove some material from the back edge of the doors for a full open swing. We make all our paneled side walls this way. Trick is to also use biscuits for the solid stock and seal the front and back as soon after making as possible. Guys who order cabinet parts simply glue a 'door' to the sides of plain cabs.
    The doors have remained dead flat (my only worry when I first did these). They're actually as solid as a rock and it allows you to place really hefty molding inside the panels. Only a few occasions where a customer was willing to pay more for them though.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Sunny California
    Posts
    512
    Very good looking kitchen. I too am in the early stages of a kitchen remodel and this gives me much inspiration!
    A creative man is motivated by the desire to achieve, not by the desire to beat others.
    Ayn Rand

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    south bend, in
    Posts
    49
    This is one awesome kitchen!
    work with wood - not against it

  9. #9
    i have a few kitchens under my belt and mine does not look that nice, excellent work!!
    jim

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL.
    Posts
    1,673
    I really like the lines in this. I am wondering how the doors were constructed. Mortise and tenon with bed molding inside? How thick are the doors overall? I have used both elements in different projects but not together. The 1/4" set back had a nice effect as well. My compliments. Lastly, what finish did you use with this sitting under the window? Is it holding up?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    an hour north of NYC, (Carmel, NY)
    Posts
    118
    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Bontz View Post
    I really like the lines in this. I am wondering how the doors were constructed. Mortise and tenon with bed molding inside? How thick are the doors overall? I have used both elements in different projects but not together. The 1/4" set back had a nice effect as well. My compliments. Lastly, what finish did you use with this sitting under the window? Is it holding up?
    Any commercial door (even 1 in. thick) don't have a lot of recess (frame to panel depth difference) to them. So I made them of 3/4 stock, used biscuits and laminated the frame to a 1/4 in. backing (any thicker and I can't use euro hinges). Because I like flat panels more than raised (helps w/ the relief), the 1/4 is my my panel. Then I placed 1 & 1/8th nose and cove (that's the width, they are a hair under 3/4 in depth) inside. Side walls were done the same way only thicker still. 1/2 in. 'backs' w/ 5/4 frames and then there's room for bed molding (really deep recesses now). Gotta be careful (especially with the doors) because the solid stock can expand/contract and the ply won't so We try to seal both sides soon after they're dry.
    Finish... if you mean the countertops, just a few this coats of poly. I like things when they become aged looking so let it darken. Better for me. I first experimented using a water based finish (wife didn't wan to have the smell) but it started falling apart after two years. We removed the counters again (what a pain) sanded back down and went with good, old poly. We try not to cut anything on them but you know how it is. If I gotta do it again in 10 yrs, so be it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •