"Hoped-for" Gloat -- 1956 DeWalt RAS

[Neil Brooks]

Just picked it up, and ... since ... wouldn't you know it -- it's a Creeker ... a shout out to say a big "Thanks" to him

Next stop. Accurate Bearings. Then ... more pics !

[Aaron Berk]

Sweet Gloat!

A cool tool and a Creeker visit ta boot!

[Myk Rian]

Here's mine. $100

Then


And now.


You'll get better help at the Delphi RAS forums

[Neil Brooks]

Wow, Myk.

Wow

Just registered over there, this morning (after picking up the saw).

Also bought the Mr. Sawdust book, and found my way to Wolfe Machinery -- "The basics," from what I've heard so far.

You did a REALLY nice job on yours. Thanks for sharing !

[Don Jarvie]

Neil, thats a nice score. Judging from the pictures it doesn't look like it will need a complete overhaul, maybe bearings and a bit of clean up.

Look over at OWWM.com and get a copy of the manual. Then you can peruse the .org site and get more info on what others have done.

It will take a little getting used to, but I love my RAS. I have a Delta 900 and use it for 90 percent of my crosscuts. I still use my tablesaw occasionally.

[david brum]

Here are a couple of photos of my restored MBF. Mine is retrofitted with a bigger motor and yoke, thanks to a little help from my friends. I also mounted mine to a torsion box table in order to gain the space underneath. Works great so far and gives 48" of fence on either side of the cut.

These saws are really undiscovered jewels. I just sold my sliding miter saw, realizing that I won't be using it anymore. My RAS is so much quieter and cuts more cleanly.

Have fun!



http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/cycl/ras2.jpg

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/cycl/ras1.jpg

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/cycl/ras3.jpg

[Neil Brooks]

Thanks, Don ! I've already posted there, and have been browsing the wealth of knowledge that exists over there.

David : That is an ab-so-lute-ly beautiful restoration. I've bookmarked your pics. Just fantastic !!! Thanks for sharing !

[Neil Brooks]

If anybody's interested, I did a pretty thorough photo documentation of the "before," even though I'm not SURE I'll do anything more than replace bearings and clean it up.

Cosmetically, it actually looks REALLY good

http://picasaweb.google.com/neil0502...eat=directlink

[John Bailey]

I had the MBF and think it's one great machine. Don't worry too much about getting a 9" blade. They work even better with the more common 8" blade. I've moved to a 10" GB model. It's more versatile because of the extra capacity, but I think the MBF was, probably, a more accurate machine.

You are going to love it.

John

[Neil Brooks]

I had the MBF and think it's one great machine. Don't worry too much about getting a 9" blade. They work even better with the more common 8" blade. I've moved to a 10" GB model. It's more versatile because of the extra capacity, but I think the MBF was, probably, a more accurate machine.

You are going to love it.

Thanks very much, John !

Did you post pics, anywhere -- either of the MBF or the GB ??

As to the blade ... consensus (if there ever IS one !) seems to be that the Super-Duper Top Secret 8" blade that Forrest makes, as a WWI ... is as good as it gets. Allegedly, it's called the TCP, and ... one must speak to Charles, directly, in order to gain access to it

But ... first ... the Mr. Sawdust book.

I'd love to see pics, though. These resto's that you folks have done are awesome, and inspirational !

[david brum]

I don't know Neil. I bought the 8" TCP WWI and hated it. It made the saw self feed and stall like crazy, and didn't make the clean cuts I was expecting in plywood. Maybe I got a bad one? Anyway, I returned it to Forest and got a Chopmaster, which is what the guys at Forest recommend. They told me that the TCP blade was a marvel when it came out, but there is newer thinking and technology available now. The other, cheaper option is reportedly the Freud LU83. It's more of a combo blade and can be had for under $50. I think both blades are ATB + FT, so you get two sharply angled teeth to sever the fibers, then a flat tooth to clear the chips and eliminate "bat ears".

Maybe others have had better luck with the TCP design. There was a similar discussion in Sept or Oct where most guys were using the Chopmaster on their RASs.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...radial+arm+saw

[Neil Brooks]

I don't know Neil. I bought the 8" TCP WWI and hated it. It made the saw self feed and stall like crazy, and didn't make the clean cuts I was expecting in plywood. Maybe I got a bad one? Anyway, I returned it to Forest and got a Chopmaster, which is what the guys at Forest recommend. They told me that the TCP blade was a marvel when it came out, but there is newer thinking and technology available now. The other, cheaper option is reportedly the Freud LU83. It's more of a combo blade and can be had for under $50. I think both blades are ATB + FT, so you get two sharply angled teeth to sever the fibers, then a flat tooth to clear the chips and eliminate "bat ears".

Maybe others have had better luck with the TCP design. There was a similar discussion in Sept or Oct where most guys were using the Chopmaster on their RASs.

David,

The minute I hit the "post reply" button ... I found myself uttering ... "Oh, no. What have I done ?"

I saw two Freuds that get high marks -- higher tooth count and lower tooth count (IIRC, something like 54t and 22t).

When I get to that stage, I'll do a little more homework. I like the notion of the Chopmaster, anyway, since I'm sure this thing will also knock my CMS out of use.

Thanks !

[david brum]

No prob Neil. Have fun with your project. I just found a shaper guard for mine, so looking forward to trying some unusual cuts. I've already made some cuts which I can't image how to do with any other saw. There is a great little video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUnZpUDvzgs
which initially intrigued me to get the saw.

[Mike Johnson]

You have a really terrific saw. For a book that will tell you how to make it perform better than you ever thought possible, google "Mister Sawdust" and buy the book called "Mastering the Radial Arm." I have been using the setup and adjustment guides in the book to improve my RAS and it has made a world of difference.

[Neil Brooks]

Thanks a bunch, Mike.

Before I picked UP the saw, I ordered the book. I've heard nothing but great things about it !