Powermatic Houdaille model 50 Jointer-- Help

[Wells Jacobson]

Hello,
I would greatly appreciate some advice/help regarding a 6" Powermatic- Houdaille jointer model 50. I recently inherited this jointer and I suspect it has not been used for 15 years. It runs fine but the tables are not parallel to each other. The end of the infeed table farthest from the cutterhead needs to be elevated. I believe the table is described as moving on a dovetailed way and that it may need a shim but I have no idea how to fix it myself or where to take it or if it is worth it. I have seen a parts list on the net but that doesn't make it clear how to take it apart or what to use as a shim. I don't want to get in over my head. Would love suggestions.
Thanks,
Jake

[Carpenter Mark]

I don't have that specific jointer but-
I your tables aren't co-planar shims may be required, but if the machine uses dovetailed ways with gibs you may be able to adjust them back into alignment. Start by getting them even at the head and tighten the gib bolts( start on the lowest bolt) on the out feed and infeed tables while lifting the end of the table with your other hand.
If this won't work or the machine doesn't have adjustable gibs, you might look for a shop local to you that has a Blanchard grinder. They should be able to grind the tables true at reasonable cost. Just make sure they have someone there thats done it before

[John Toigo]

Mark's advice is good although I doubt that you'll need to have the tables ground. I would strongly reccomend that you look over on OWWM.org. I'm pretty sure you'll find an owners manual for that jointer and if not you can ask around. The owners manual, or an actual owner, can probably tell you how to adjust the beds for proper functioning. A lot of jointers (mine for example) require shimming to get the tables level. Mine shims under the beds that hold the ways so it varys from model to model. Shimming is fussy but doable especially on a machine that size. You'll need a machinists level though - you can;t use a carpenters level for that.

[david brum]

Here's a good articlehttp://wiki.owwm.com/Default.aspx?Pa...ookieSupport=1

I should point out that you're shooting in the dark without a decent straight edge. If you don't want to buy a fancy one, other guys have gotten by with L section aluminum stock from the hardware store.

Shimming jointer ways is not difficult although it can be tedious.

[Matt Meiser]

No reason to take it apart. Mine didn't need table shims, though I thought it did--found out they droop a little with the tables unlocked, so check that first.

I did need to shim the cutter head on one end.

[Chip Lindley]

First of all, the PM50 is one of the premier, heavy-duty 6" jointers. I am sure it is worth your while to adjust it and get it running accurately.

Matt's input should be checked out before anything else is done. If the jointer can be brought back into alignment by gib adjustment or tightening the lock knobs, much the better. The OP never said what sort of straightedge was used to check the tables. If the straightedge is not accurate, there is no beginning basis for deciding what needs to be adjusted.

Should the machine indeed need shimming, all shims should be placed under the outfeed table, lining it up to the infeed table. The outfeed is seldom moved, but the infeed is constantly moved up/down for thickness of cut. Tables should be adjusted coplanar without regard for their lining up with the cutterhead. After the tables are coplanar, then the cutterhead can be shimmed into parallel with the tables, as Matt suggests. Blanchard grinding should be considered a last resort, and is usually recommended for warped or bent tables.

[Wells Jacobson]

Many thanks for the input. I'll search out a manual and put some time and effort into alignment. I don't think it needs regrinding. Have to admit I would have started with the infeed side but working on the less mobile side makes good sense.
Jake

[Max Coller]

One great tip I've read with regard to shimming an outfeed table - if you buy a moderately priced set of feeler gauges, you'll have a good number of shims in varying thickness to try until you find exactly the right thickness you need. Looks a little funny if you leave it attached to the rest of the set and hanging under your jointer though, so you can cut it off or dismantle the set if the spirit so moves you.