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Thread: How can I save them

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Russiaville,Indiana
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    247

    How can I save them

    Ok I screwed up I know this now. I used teak oil on not one but 8 pepper mills It will not dry it is still sticky after 3 days. What can I do can I re sand then to get the teak oil off or do I burn then and start over? I thought Iwas getting a head on this years christmas presents boy was I wrong.

  2. #2
    Others might chime in, but I would think wiping them down with something like acetone or lacquer thinner would "cut" the oil and wipe it off the surface. At least that is what I would have tried in the same situation, but lets see what the others say.
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    No, it's not thin enough yet.
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  3. #3
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    Sep 2009
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    Blairsville GA
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    Acetone is worth trying...

    But you might want to see if there is a number on teak oil container, to call and ask them based on your application.

    A quick search showed acetone as popular approach, but some mention also given to a stripper used for teak...so again, contacting manufacturer of the oil may be a good idea.

    Obviously..regardless of which way you go, try on test piece first.

    Good luck, sorry to hear about that.
    Laugh at least once daily, even if at yourself!

  4. #4
    My thought is to use a citrus stripper - pretty mild stuff, and should work fairly well. Just make sure that you clean them off very well afterward to remove any stripper residue before applying another finish.

    What kind of wood are the mills?

  5. #5
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    Nov 2008
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    Russiaville,Indiana
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    John. One set is myrtle wood the others are maple and walnut.

  6. #6
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    I have not worked with teak oil, but I've had that happen with BLO and Tung oil. It can take a few days or more to cure, especially if they are "pure" oils. The blends dry faster. Given where you are, it may be temperature. I've tried the acetone, it works, but it does leave a less than desireable finish, (some spots have dried finish and some don't) and it does affect the wood, and I had to sand, (and refinish) so perhaps waiting a couple more days and moving the mills into a heated area may help......

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Spring City, TN
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    How cold is your shop? You might bring them in to a warm area. I've had some luck with that. It does take a while though for the stuff to dry.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Russiaville,Indiana
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    I did bring them in the house last night the shop I keep at 64 thinklng it might not be warm enough Ill give it some more time and see.

  9. #9

    Mineral spirits

    I've done it successfully a few times using low-odor mineral spirits. (It's never disappointed me.) After a quick dry-out in warm, well-ventilated area, you can re-oil (use less this time) or apply wipe-on poly. Keep it above 60 to cure.

    I think acetone will remove too much of the natural things like lignin and leave a too-dull surface.

    Art

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee, Wi
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    I've had this happen with gun stocks. What has worked for me in the past is to expose them to UV. Eventually it will cure.
    My money talks to me... It says Good Bye.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Marietta GA
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    1,120

    Japan Drier

    I used Japan Drier to fix a similar problem. I just added a Japan Drier to the BLO that was giveing me the problem. I mixed a small batch of 2/3rds Japan Drier and 1/3 BLO. Wiped the problem areas down lightly and they were set the next day. I left them alone for another day and then did final surface treatment.

    You might give it a try on a test sample with your finish. Japan Drier will mix with most oil based finishes IMO.

  12. #12
    +1 for mineral spirits.
    +1 for taking it inside and keeping it warm.

  13. #13
    Wet steel wool (4/0) with mineral spirits to remove the gummy.

    Recoat after a day or two with whatever. I do my mills with either; a mix of poly, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits; or spray can poly; or first a coat of the poly, BLO, MS mix, and then the spray can poly.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Goodland, Kansas
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    I had the same thing happen to some lidded boxes and mills that I finished with Teak Oil. I had the same thing happen and I am pretty sure it is because my can of Teak oil finish was old. It was just gummy as all get out and would not dry no matter what I did. I did as Prashun did. I put some mineral spirits in a can and dipped steel wool in and cleaned it off. I sat them at a heat register till they felt good and dry then finished with rattle can lacquer. I had that finish sitting on the shelf for quite some time and decided I would use it up. Mistake on my part.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

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  15. Quote Originally Posted by Dahl Troy View Post
    Ok I screwed up I know this now. I used teak oil on not one but 8 pepper mills It will not dry it is still sticky after 3 days. What can I do can I re sand then to get the teak oil off or do I burn then and start over? I thought Iwas getting a head on this years christmas presents boy was I wrong.
    Wet them with mineral spirits heavy, and cover them with floor dry, let them set for a awhile!! Then rub them with floor dry, wipe them off and, sand if you wish.

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