small boxes & small parts

[Robert Reece]

So last week I got excited for some reason and built a finger joint jig for my tablesaw. It's the kind that has the wooden key to reference the slot cut by the blade (as opposed to the kind of jig that advances with a threaded rod). So now I have reasonably acceptable 1/4" finger joints.

So then I figured, well, might as well "knock out" a few simple boxes and give some to the kids and maybe as gifts. Well, these little buggers aren't so easy to just "knock out". For now, I'm just trying simple boxes about 4"x8" x ~2-3" deep with 1/4 - 3/8" thick sides.

So some questions:
1. Bottoms - can they be solid wood and just glued on? At what point do I have to worry about wood movement? Should I capture them in a groove instead?
2. Tops - these boxes don't have any hinges so I think I am just going to make some tops that sit on top of the box with a little handle. How does one make that little handle without cutting fingers off?
3. Thin stock - my approach so far has been to take a 3/4 length of something, joint it flat, then resaw off something a little thicker than I want. Then I run that through my drum sander until it is the thickness I am after. Can I run this thin stuff through my planer?
4. Finishing - should I prefinish the parts? Seems like I should at least get some BLO or poly on the inside before assembly.
5. Glue up - how do you spread glue on all these fingers and get it together and clamped? I did a small test box and I was right at 8 minutes which I guess is ok.

Thanks for any pointers on making these little gems.

[Dave Cav]

I have made a few finger jointed boxes with a solid top/bottom just glued on and then flush routed or sanded flush. I have used both solid lumber or thin plywood, and haven't had any problems yet.

I put the glue in the fingers with a little "acid" brush. You need to get it down into the bottom, too. I clamp them with F type clamps, a couple or four on the sides and ends; take up the slack slowly and evenly.

If you make the box out of 3/4 stock, you can make a slip-on lid on the router table. I glue the top and bottom on, then sand everything flat and flush on the belt sander. Then cut the top off on the table saw. Put a piloted 3/8" rabbet bit in the router table and route around the outside of the main box and the inside of the top. Square up the inside corners of the top and the lid should slip on.

The same thing would work with 1/2" stock and a 1/4" rabbet bit.

Cutting the top off will take (about) 1/8" of your box, and the router bit will take another 3/8", so you'll want to plan where you cut your top off so it minimizes the effect on the fingers.

[Jim Rimmer]

So last week I got excited for some reason and built a finger joint jig for my tablesaw. It's the kind that has the wooden key to reference the slot cut by the blade (as opposed to the kind of jig that advances with a threaded rod). So now I have reasonably acceptable 1/4" finger joints.

So then I figured, well, might as well "knock out" a few simple boxes and give some to the kids and maybe as gifts. Well, these little buggers aren't so easy to just "knock out". For now, I'm just trying simple boxes about 4"x8" x ~2-3" deep with 1/4 - 3/8" thick sides.

So some questions:
1. Bottoms - can they be solid wood and just glued on? At what point do I have to worry about wood movement? Should I capture them in a groove instead?
2. Tops - these boxes don't have any hinges so I think I am just going to make some tops that sit on top of the box with a little handle. How does one make that little handle without cutting fingers off?
3. Thin stock - my approach so far has been to take a 3/4 length of something, joint it flat, then resaw off something a little thicker than I want. Then I run that through my drum sander until it is the thickness I am after. Can I run this thin stuff through my planer?
4. Finishing - should I prefinish the parts? Seems like I should at least get some BLO or poly on the inside before assembly.
5. Glue up - how do you spread glue on all these fingers and get it together and clamped? I did a small test box and I was right at 8 minutes which I guess is ok.

Thanks for any pointers on making these little gems.

Can't answer them all but here's my 2 cents:

1. Movement is probably not a problem in that small a piece. I use stopped grooves/dados to hold the bottom.

2. Make the shape you want on a long piece and then slice it off. the profile would be the handle shape.

3. Since you have a drum sander, I wouldn't use the planer. Too thin may explode on you.

4. Yes

5. Woodcraft (and others) sell a little squeeze bottle http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...rs-2-Pack.aspx that has a needle point (actually much thicker than a needle) that is great for the small finger joints.

[Tim Null]

Boxes are tougher than big furniture in some aspects. They get much more scrutiny, so errors show easier. Also, due to the small scale, what would be an unnoticeable error on a larger project, is a glaring one here.

Doug Stowe has some great books on box making. There are a couple others out as well. For small scale boxes I usually use 3/8" stock. Bottoms are usually set in grooves, tops can be as well or built to set on tops.

I usually cut small parts on the band saw, or use the router table on a larger piece and then cut it off.

The books will give you some great techniques that you can then apply to your own boxes.

[doug faist]

Looks like you're getting good advice so far. One thing I would caution you about is finishing the INSIDE with oil. Unfortunately, in a relatively sealed environment, the oil smell never goes away. On the boxes i have done I've just used a couple coats of shellac, sanded, then a bit of wax. It's smooth and nice smelling.

Have fun with your project.

Doug