Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 61

Thread: Pencil sharpeners

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    I have an old hand cranked Boston in my shop. It works fine. The electric one I had at work really worked well,too. Must be getting lazy. Most of my life I used a knife. Super fine points can be made quickly with a bit of 220 grit garnet paper to "strop" on.

    If you have ever studied old drafting books(I taught it at one time),there are quite a few different points you can put on a pencil.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,467
    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice Ungaro View Post
    Derek, thanks for the Cult Pens tip. As for the white lead, I know it's not graphite - many people are befuddled by that! Do you sharpen the white lead in the same pointer?
    Maurice, yes, I use the same pointer ... but very gently!

    This is an original Gedess (the modern copy is either red where the black is, or clear plastic) ..



    It is a classic and award-wnning design from 1941.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #33
    Hands down the best pencil sharpener I've ever used:

    IMG_1019.jpg

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    I have an old hand cranked Boston in my shop. It works fine. The electric one I had at work really worked well,too. Must be getting lazy. Most of my life I used a knife. Super fine points can be made quickly with a bit of 220 grit garnet paper to "strop" on.

    If you have ever studied old drafting books(I taught it at one time),there are quite a few different points you can put on a pencil.
    I often take a mechanical pencil and make a bevel point on a piece of sandpaper. That's perfect for marking the nut against the neck when you're trimming it to size. I guess it's perfect anytime you need to make one thing flush with another thing.

    I still have an old Boston hand crank in the shop (gave the electric to the wife for her office), but I've mostly switched to mechanicals. I still use regular pencils for rough work so I don't destroy the mechanical ones (I tend to buy nice ones...and they tend to be a little expensive to be trashing every day). I do tend to actually put some sort of point on the mechanicals though, which I think is not that common unless you're using a lead holder and sharpener (and I use that too for layout sometimes).
    Last edited by John Coloccia; 07-23-2015 at 11:30 AM.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Peachtree City, GA
    Posts
    1,582
    Years ago, in drafting class we all had to learn how to use a paddle with abrasive to refresh the point, even though we used wooden pencils. I remember seeing my dad's draftsman, in his studio, using a paddle for repointing from time to time, even though he had mechanical pointers.
    Maurice

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    2,367
    Quote Originally Posted by John Coloccia View Post
    Surely there's someone here who's made their own sharpener out of A2, brass and Bubinga with carved wheat. Anybody?

    Personally, I've mostly switched to mechanical pencils in several different size leads. I just find them more consistent, but if I had high quality pencils and a great sharpener, I might change my mind as I just really like the feel of a pencil vs a mechanical pencil.
    Of course, the question remains: bevel up or bevel down? If bevel down whats the best way to set the chipbreaker?
    Paul

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    Boston KS here for the wooden pencils.
    Berol Turquoise 14 for the drawing pencils.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    I have a couple of xacto's, and several Berol's scattered about, as well as some replacement cutters when one wears out, but so far none have needed to be replaced, to sharpen my hoard of Berol Mirado no. 3's and 4's.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Herrmann View Post
    I've got an old Boston pencil sharpener in my shop.


    Same here.

    You can't beat the coolness factor, esp if you're a galoot.



    Odd thing, though: I tried to sharpen my mechanical pencil with it, and it made this strange grinding noise.
    Maybe it needs new bearings?

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    I used those type paddles in the beginning 60's when I was taking drafting in college.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    'over here' - Ireland
    Posts
    2,532
    Must say I've always used a sharp knife, or better still a sharp chisel - sharpeners tend to put too short a point on for my taste for a lot of draughting jobs and the like...

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
    Posts
    2,700
    Heresy time, I sharpen a carpenters pencil on the side of a bench grinder wheel, ten seconds and I have a chisel point that will cut the skin it is so sharp and fine. It depends on what I am marking as to what pencil I use, dark woods a soft one etc. This method gets the pencil as sharp as a marking knife and just as fine. If a hard leaded pencil is used it will actually cut into the wood as a knife does.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,254
    Blog Entries
    7
    I use a fine mechanical pencil

    I find .3mm fine enough, but I like the white 'lead' idea I may put that to use!
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 07-24-2015 at 8:46 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Peachtree City, GA
    Posts
    1,582
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Heresy time, I sharpen a carpenters pencil on the side of a bench grinder wheel, ten seconds and I have a chisel point that will cut the skin it is so sharp and fine. It depends on what I am marking as to what pencil I use, dark woods a soft one etc. This method gets the pencil as sharp as a marking knife and just as fine. If a hard leaded pencil is used it will actually cut into the wood as a knife does.
    Nice idea, Chris! I'm still unpacking my shop, and plan on setting up my sharpening station today. I'll give it a whirl.
    Maurice

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    132
    No love for my favorite, the Little Shaver? You can put a chisel point on the lead (OK, graphite), and the blade can be resharpened...allowing for another rabbit hole discussion of the best techniques and stones for the purpose :-) http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...,42452&p=68746

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •