Member
This smaller guy is also on a cleat, screwed on two studs. The cleat is nothing more than a 3/4" hardwood piece which was ripped at an angle and then gang-planed to that angle. Behind the slanted surface (it is hinged at the top to open and reveal that space) are a #7 and some other smaller stuff, works well.
At some point it'll have drawers, before I die, promise.
peace
/p
Contributor
Take the tools out and it is pretty easy to lift.ps. one of the most useful tools in my shop, my electric lifter. Studley's chest may take 2-3 guys to lift. Mine takes only one finger
By the way, I think my 1/4" by 4" screws were 20¢ each. Two in each stud seems to work well as long as your cleat is big enough to accommodate that many.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
One word of caution on the Fench cleat business. I have one fail, picked a cabinet full of screws off the floor in the morning. I used pine for the cabinet side of the cleat. The wood split. I now screw my cabinets to the wall. Use as many screws as you think you need.
Seems to me that the benefit of the cleat system is the ability to move the cabinet easily but I don't see an advantage in strength over screwing the cabinet directly to the studs.
The Plane Anarchist
Member
Niels, where does a guy find one of those electric lifters? And what is the typical weight capacity?
Gary Curtis
Los Angeles
Member
Hey Jim,
1/4"x4" screws will definitely do the trick. I used 3/8 or 1/2 (forget which) carriage bolts to attach wall cleat the pallet rack uprights. Also haven't, nor would I attempt to, lift the shelf fully loaded. At least until I get around to building a door. Which would also be an awesome place for some saws and/or layout tools.
On the topic of additions down the road, I am also contemplating adding a gun-safe heater into the void behind the inclined surface. I had originally thought of adding storage space there, but didn't like the thought of swinging all those planes up and down. Instead, I made the rack slide in and out on a little tray with two stops. This way I could could have the planes at an angle that was ideal for picking up quickly with one hand, and then push back the shelf to close the door. Also this means i have more flexibility to have deeper storage in the door without about interference with the plane blades and lateral adjusters. (the 4 1/2 with a 55 HAF sticks out wicked far)
Curtis,
I acquired the lift after I borrowed it from a friend to lift a 225+ pound concrete stool around my studio. That's the most weight i've ever attempted to lift. His father was a distributor for the swedish company (http://www.electriclift.eu/) that made it and had a newer model (this one is about 20 years old). I asked me if I wanted it for 150 bucks (roughly the cost of the batteries it runs on) and I jumped on it . It makes moving equipment, table tops, lumber, benches, etc a snap and saves my back and bad shoulder. I think they aren't cheap to buy new ($1000-2000)
Contributor
No one has commented on the use of the Tapcons to anchor the 2x4s in the original post. Is this a good method for heavier items such as the plane till? I'm going to be putting up shelves & wood strips to hang things from in my garage which has block walls on 2 sides. Thanks. Paul
Member
I dont see any problem with using tapcons, as long as they were installed properly. As I understand it, the 2x4 studs are anchored to the concrete and the wall is 3/4" ply screwed to the studs. That means what ever torque there is from the suspended till contributing to pull out would be distributed over many anchors.
Member
Thanks, Trevor. I was making a larger project and needed a vehicle to practice a couple things on, so I made this sort of on the fly. Funny how that sort of thing can free you up to both enjoy the work and sometimes yield a decent piece that while imperfect has its own charms. Anyway, here is the inside. The things on top are to shave tapered tenons in making chairs. I didn't make them. Elia Bizzarri, an accomplished chair maker, made them for me.
Member
The force on the studs will be almost directly down. If this were a free standing interior wall made with 2x4s, it will still hold. The Tapcons are more than enough. As to the screws, i can't remember the exact numbers, but I read a report on the relative strength of screws. In a direct pull situation (like pulling a nail), they held somwhere in the neighbourhood of 600-800lbs (for a #8 screw). But in a shear situation one #8 screw could hold something like 1200lbs. Assuming that you attach the cleat to two studs, one screw each, the cleat will then hold 2400lbs in a shear situation. The pine cleat failed because pine will split easily, putting the screw through the middle of the cleat, plus I'm assuming you've added a countersunk hole for the screw to fit into, the head of the screw then acting like a splitting wedge. Either hardwood or plywood would be the best choice for a cleat, I prefer plywood. Add two screws per stud to a taller cleat, then you have 4800lbs. of holding power, enough for a car.
One option is to hang the cabinet, then screw through the back of the cabinet and cabinet-side cleat to the stud as well, then you have four screws and the cleat distrubuting the weight.
Again, my math may be wonky, my memory certainly is, take this with a good sized Canadian road salt truck load of salt.
Contributor
Thank you Sean, Nice kit in there. Is that a purpleheart gunstock scraper on the bottom shelf there?
Trevor Walsh
TWDesignShop
Member
It is a Woodjoy scraper and purple heart. It's not the gunstock variant.
Member
I agree. Great place to hang out!Originally Posted by larry ciccolo
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