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Thread: Lathe choice for beginner

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    22,605
    Gordon is right. I had the C-man 15" and it is junk period. I bought one brand new and it was made by Palmgren. I spent more time fixing it than turning. In the first year I turned on it maybe 3 months total and the rest of the time it was down and always waiting parts. The 3 belts on this unit you cannot buy any other place but Craftsman or Palmgren. If money is a issue I would look at the Rikon midi with a 12" swing or the Jet 1220 in which you will have to change belts which actually is no big deal. My Rikon I can change the belt in about 30 seconds or so.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Stow, OH
    Posts
    1,023
    Bernie, the sad part was you are not alone. 10 or so Creekers who had that lathe all reported to have multiple problems.
    I think Woodcraft has the new Rikon Variable Speed for $280 on Black Friday is a good bargain. The manual version has proven to be a reliable mdi lathe. The VS is brand new unknown. With the Woodcraft 90 days satisfaction guarantee and the Rikon service, I think it is worth a trial.
    Gordon

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Lincoln Hills, Ca
    Posts
    167

    6-700 is the minimum total IMHO

    Mark,

    I teach beginning turning a lot and tried to come up with a minimum budget in response to a lot of questions from students. The budget is based on the Rikon Model 70-100 12" Mini Lathe. The article and budget I wrote in Google Docs follows, and may need some updating. Hope this article helps:
    https://docs.google.com/View?docID=a...vision=_latest

    I really don't think you can do it for much less than $700 total. If you can possibly work the Delta 46-460 into your budget you will have a sweet system for $1000.

    Jerry
    Jerry Hall

  4. #19
    An update -

    After the advice re the Delta 46-460, I looked into that, and it seems that is the lathe for me. With the exception of outboard turning, it has all the features I would find desirable, and nobody seems to have a bad word to say about it. So I was contemplating buying one of those, but still had my eye on Craigslist to see if something came up.

    Well lo and behold, there was a listing today from a guy with a Rikon 70-100, and a Delta 46-715. $150 on the Rikon, $300 on the Delta. I went down there tonight, and had a look. I read up about the Delta, and the main beef was with the Reeves drive. It appears there are three versions of it, Types 1, 2 and 3. Type 2 allegedly resolved the early issues, and is the one to get, if not a type 3. Well this one was a type 2, and when powered up on a low speed, there was plenty of vibration. I've had vibration in a bandsaw before, and it drove me crazy. When I got a better bandsaw, it was like night and day. So, scratch the Delta 46-715, although I was impressed with its bulk.

    The Rikon was a heavy little beast, and at $150 in good condition, I couldn't go wrong. It is now sitting in my shop, waiting for the chisels I ordered to turn up on Friday. I'll spend the time cleaning it up a little.

    One thing I only noticed when I got home is that it's missing the faceplate. It does have the spur, but no face plate. As I only intend to keep this guy for 6-12 months, prior to replacing it with the 46-460, I'm thinking perhaps I might get a chuck for it as opposed to a faceplate, as I could use that on the subsequent 46-460, and the cost of the chuck would be easier to absorb in say January as opposed to adding it to the $600 capital cost of the Delta at the same time. A question - does the Delta need the Delta brand chuck, or would any chuck suffice? I'm thinking the reverse action of the lathe may have some bearing, but then again, perhaps not. The OEM Delta chuck is pretty costly at $160 or so, when others can be had around the $100 mark.

    As it goes, the older guy I bought the Rikon from was selling these two, as he had bought a 46-460! I asked him to run the beast for me, and wow, it was super smooth. So I am a happy bunny. I can get into turning for reasonable money, acquire the accoutrements over the next few months, and then get a sweet lathe next year, and probably still be able to get out of the Rikon for what I paid for it.

    Thanks to all for their advice, and particularly Jerry Hall, it seems I may end up with both the models you recommend!

  5. #20
    I went with the Delta 46-460 after about 10 months on a cast iron HF mini. I kept looking at cheaper alternatives, but the feedback I was getting is "stay with it". So I did.
    Now, I don't have any photo proof of this *yet", so it didn't happen, but is happening and should debut this weekend if the honeydo's don't bog me down. In my delusional state I consider it a sweet upgrade!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Western Maryland
    Posts
    5,548
    Rikon lathe? What Rikon lathe? No pics didn't happen...

    I suggest you get some pics up really quickly before you get a dozen posts like this one... HURRY!
    I drink, therefore I am.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Minot, ND
    Posts
    561

    Delta 46-460

    <One thing I only noticed when I got home is that it's missing the faceplate. It does have the spur, but no face plate. As I only intend to keep this guy for 6-12 months, prior to replacing it with the 46-460, I'm thinking perhaps I might get a chuck for it as opposed to a faceplate, as I could use that on the subsequent 46-460, and the cost of the chuck would be easier to absorb in say January as opposed to adding it to the $600 capital cost of the Delta at the same time. A question - does the Delta need the Delta brand chuck, or would any chuck suffice? I'm thinking the reverse action of the lathe may have some bearing, but then again, perhaps not. The OEM Delta chuck is pretty costly at $160 or so, when others can be had around the $100 mark.>

    I've got a 46-460, (one that I need to sell with plenty of accessories), and have a Nova G3-Delta chuck for it. Any chuck with a 1"-8TPI will work with this lathe. As long as the chuck you pick up either comes in that size, or has interchangeable inserts, you should be able to use it when you get a 46-460.

    Good luck with your new, (to you), Rikon. Hope you can get your 46-460 soon.

    Clint

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Erie, PA
    Posts
    564
    I have both the Jet 1220 VS and the Delta 46-460 and as I stated in the article I wrote for Woodturning Design Magazine comparing the two that they are both great lathes. I will keep both but if I could only have one it would be the 46-460 without hesitation.
    Bill

  9. #24
    Mark,

    I'm pretty new to turning. I have the Delta 46-460. I suggest you keep yr Rikon as long as poss b4 upgrading. You might decide you want a full size lathe at that point.

    The 46-460 takes a 1"x8tpi spindle, and has a 5/8" tool post. Full size lathes might have larger spindles and a larger tool post. So, beware of these facts when you buy accessories.

    I do think a good scroll chuck is essential. A faceplate is good for the outside turning of a bowl, but you'll need a chuck to turn the inside. Scroll chucks also usually come with a screw that can take the place of a faceplate on some turnings.

    When you shop for a chuck, know that the hidden cost is other 'jaws' you might want to eventually purchase which allow you to hold bigger or smaller items more aggressively or more delicately. Each of these can easily cost you $50 a pop...

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Green Valley, Az.
    Posts
    1,202
    If you can find a way to squeeze out the extra bucks for a 12 in. VS, I urge you to do it. If you don't, later on you'll wish that you had. The VS is so much better than belt changing. A 10 inch swing is okay for a lot of folks but it's very limiting. The largest bowl you can turn is about 9.5 inches.

    A chuck has been mentioned as a necessary extra expense. It isn't. You can get by just fine without it. The 4-jaw scroll chuck that most turners rely on didn't exist before about 1990. We did a lot of turning without it before that.

    Wally
    Last edited by Wally Dickerman; 11-18-2010 at 11:06 AM.

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