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Thread: Odd Shapes

  1. #1
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    Odd Shapes

    I'm curious how everyone centers their engraving on odd shapes. I just bought some of those nifty christmas trees from Cewbarka and was getting ready to engrave them.

    I usually scan and trace the item, then I take a scrap piece of material place it in the upper corner and cut-out the profile. This template helps with proper placement in repetative jobs.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob pfohler View Post
    I'm curious how everyone centers their engraving on odd shapes. I just bought some of those nifty christmas trees from Cewbarka and was getting ready to engrave them.

    I usually scan and trace the item, then I take a scrap piece of material place it in the upper corner and cut-out the profile. This template helps with proper placement in repetative jobs.
    I either do that (I use blue painter's tape instead of scrap material), or (more often than not) I scan/trace, then put it roughly in the center and eyeball it, using a vector line at 80% or so speed and the laser pointer. I've gotten pretty good at it and can usually get it dead-on in 2-3 tries.
    Last edited by Garrett Nors; 11-08-2010 at 10:59 PM.
    -Garrett Nors

    45w Epilog Helix ♦ Dahlgren Wizzard 2000ST (currently down for the count) ♦ CorelDRAW X3 ♦ Adobe Illustrator & Photoshop CS4

  3. #3
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    Try a search for center/center engraving in the SC files, you might find something useful there.
    Good luck.
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  4. #4
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    We do the same , a quick trace and engrave the outline on cardstock or similar and place the item on it (normally the trace outline is slightly bigger or offset than the item so we can actually see it's placed 100%)
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  5. #5
    Yes, we do it by tracing and marking on a 3mm mdf using low power and high speed and keep them perfect with eye sight. Thats it, if we cut the exact profile, will take a bit of power, material, time etc.,

    Regards,
    Saravana kumar
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  6. #6
    Me too. But I use different template materials depending on whether the job is a one-off (paper), one time job needing several refills (cardboard) or a repeating job (MDF/acrylic). I write my settings on the template so there is no confusion when I use it at another time. There's nothing easier than having one ready to go, even if a later job is only a few, since the template and file are ready to use.

    I usually make the cut lines an unprintable layer in case I ever have to make another template or want to line up new designs inside the shape without having to remove outlines.

    dee
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  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I just made templates for Chewbarka's trees last weekend! I scanned as a PDF on my printer, imported, traced, cut a cardboard jig. After cutting, in CorelDraw, I make the outline gray then lock it. But Dee's idea of a non-printable layer is simpler.

    For one-offs, I'll just guesstimate where to put the item, say a knife. Then I draw a box around the text and do a red-pointer outline w/ the lid open, and move the knife around until it's centered. Then I double-make-sure that I do NOT engrave that outline box when I send the file to the laser. Scary thought for it to engrave an unwanted alignment box.

    Bob, what are you going to engrave on the trees? I've done some with a photo of a baby, and "2010...Baby's First Christmas", and a couple with just text of Bible verses. Any other ideas?
    ULS X-660 CO2 50 watt (July 2008), Corel X7, Photograv, GX 7000 for dye sub, Graphtec vinyl plotter, Rayzist Sandcarving system (Nov 2018), JPT MOPA M6 30 watt Fiber Laser (May 2019)

  8. #8
    If the graphic position is really unimportant, I might align to a fixture by eye. But most of my parts are a bit more critical. If you have a border or outline on the item it will show if not centered. Also since you are usually viewing at an angle you can be in error.

    I usually draw the outline on a particle board fixture which is screwed to the table to prevent motion. Then I etch the shape outlines. Following that I place thin blocks of wood or plastic on the outline to act as stops. Usually I have scrap parts or dropouts around, some of which even have PSA on them.

    For labels and tags, I draw the outline, place stops on top and left by eye to the lines, lay down a sample part, and then place the last couple of stops butting to the part itself.

    Sometimes another small piece of PSA in the center of the shape on the fixture will just add enough adhesion to keep the part from lifting or sliding due to vibration, exhaust, air assist, or warping.

    It takes almost no extra time to drop the parts in place and there is lower risk of rejects.

  9. #9
    Just looked on Chewbarka's website and did not see the Christmas Tree tags? Where would I be able to get some?

    Thanks,
    Linda
    Epilog Helix 45w, Corel x3, Photograv

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Linda Kroeker View Post
    Just looked on Chewbarka's website and did not see the Christmas Tree tags? Where would I be able to get some?

    Thanks,
    Linda
    Linda, go to ebay and type in chewbarka. Click on any auction and you can get to their store. They have trees and bells for Christmas there.
    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

    Red Coin Mah Jong

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Download a vector template and create a fixtures for most of Cewbarka's tags, simple and accurate.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Morrisonville, NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amy Shelton View Post
    Bob, what are you going to engrave on the trees? I've done some with a photo of a baby, and "2010...Baby's First Christmas", and a couple with just text of Bible verses. Any other ideas?
    My wife is making gifts for teachers, postman... etc. I was going to use them as tags for the gifts.

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