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Thread: Lets talk bandsaw blades!

  1. #61
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    Nov 2012
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    Ole Anderson started a thread (about a week ago) which included links to youtube videos one of which showed Lou Sauzedde sharpening his bandsaw blade. I thought this instructive and useful for anyone considering how to optimize their large saw cutting. I have been using a non-sharpenable carbide blade but this video has me thinking about alternatives.

    Blade sharpening on a Ship's Saw (L. Power) by Lou Sauzedde
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoaOkqi-xxs

    Ole's original post
    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ly-big-bandsaw
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  2. #62
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    May 2004
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    VERY helpful write up.....Thank you for your effort!!!!
    Jerry

  3. #63
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    Central Missouri, U.S.
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    Anybody heard from Van? Haven't seen him around these parts.

  4. #64
    I just read this posting from end to end. Lots of good info here. I built two of my 9 band saws. My biggest saw takes a 1 1/2"x150" 4 degree 1TPI .045 blades. What do I buy? Not much. I get most of my blades from the local junkyard. I made a hand setter and I sharpen my blades with a dremel. I also have a blade welder so if what I find is to large or to small I cut and make to fit.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Anybody heard from Van? Haven't seen him around these parts.

    I see him every day.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  6. #66
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    Apr 2018
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    Cambridge Vermont
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    Lots of useful information here. I have a newer HF 14" bandsaw (given to me) that I added a Shop Fox riser to, since HF doesn't offer one for it. My plan is to get a used 24" bandsaw since I've seen several nice ones sell at equipment auctions for under $1000. It's just a matter of distance to me. Anyway back to the 14" bandsaw. I've added a Cobra coil spring to help with tension. I've bought two Highlander bowl turning blades for it. I occasionally will resaw a board or two but my plans for what ever bandsaw I get is to cut bowl blanks. I got the highlander blades because I didn't want to ruin nicer blades while I was building a sled for the saw. I've already broken one blade because I had the pivot too far back and the blank not smooth enough. Now that I have the sled working well I'm looking to get some new blades. I've been debating between the Lenox diemaster 2 or the Olsen MVP. The highlander blades are .035 x 3/8. I don't have a tension gauge yet so I can't confirm but I'm concerned that I can't properly tension it.

    The blanks I turn are green wood, usually yellow birch, cherry, oak, maple. So far nothing smaller than 8" in diameter and often larger than that so I think a 1/2" blade would work fine. Both the Lenox and Olson blades only come in 1/2" if I want 3 tpi. Olson does make a 4 tpi skip tooth blade in 3/8" but the blanks I've been cutting are usually 6" to 10" thick and I'm not sure if the green wood will be happier with 3 tpi. I'm not doing production work so going slower isn't a problem. But now that I'm down to just one blade I would like to get a couple spares.

    So my question is would the Diematster 2 1/2" x .035 be too much for a 14" Delta clone saw to properly tension? Is there any other bi-metal blades I should be looking at for my needs? I've read a lot on this subject but most people seam to be more into resawing than cutting bowl blanks. The Lenox seam to be harder to get.

  7. #67
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    Mar 2003
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    You might check with Louis Iturra or Iturra Design. He sells both the Lennox Dimaster and a line of Starrett bi-metal blades that he likes better than the Lennox. He knows more about bandsaws, particularly old Deltas and their clones, than I can imagine ever knowing. He is not on-line, you have to call him.
    -Howard

  8. #68
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    Apr 2018
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    The problem is that during the weekdays I usually don't have time to spend making phone calls so I've never called Iturra. I quickly looked at Sarrett, the woodpecker pro to be exact. It comes in the same specs as the Olson but they are very hard to find on-line. Bandsaw Kings sell them but don't have them in stock. I could buy them directly from Starrett but without creating an account I have no idea what shipping will cost or how long it'll take to get. I don't want to build up a nice stock of spare blades since I don't know how long I'll have this saw for. The Olson blades seam to be sold all over the place so if I need a blade in a hurry I can get them. But I've had good luck with Lenox blades (and Starrett hole saws) so a part of me is leaning that direction. I'm probably over thinking this and will want to try several brands so see which one I like the best.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Zeller View Post
    I have a newer HF 14" bandsaw (given to me) that I added a Shop Fox riser to, since HF doesn't offer one for it.

    I've bought two Highlander bowl turning blades for it.


    So my question is would the Diematster 2 1/2" x .035 be too much for a 14" Delta clone saw to properly tension? Is there any other bi-metal blades I should be looking at for my needs? I've read a lot on this subject but most people seam to be more into resawing than cutting bowl blanks. The Lenox seam to be harder to get.
    First, the HF saw is an OK saw IF you get one that is relatively vibration free, in that respect it is a lottery. Keep in mind despite what some would lead you to believe clones are not perfect clones and even within the clones there are a lot of differences. Even the Delta changed a lot over the 80+ years it was made. The point I am getting at is the castings for these saws vary a lot and some are more rigid than others and I imagine you can guess where the HF is on the relative scale of rigidity and they all get worse with a riser on them. All these saws can get the job done if you don't ask them to do too much. Based on this I wouldn't recommend a 1/2" bi-metal blade for these saws, the Diemaster is not that aggressive (though some love it for blanks) and requires a lot of tension. Asking the HF to tension and then power the DM through bowl blanks, particularly green, and you will likely be either frustrated or destroy the blade. Again a lot of turners like the DM but for your saw I would suggest carbon bands.

    The carbon band I suggest for green blanks is 3/8" blade with 3 tpi, fairly thick (.03 to .035"), with a high hook angle (6 degrees plus), lots of set in an alternate set pattern, large gullets and a raker tooth pattern. The idea is to cut aggressively with the ability to clear the swarf easily as well as being rather tough and having enough beam strength to get powered through tall blanks. Highland and Timberwolf both supply that exact blade spec but they run about $24 each which isn't bad if you are one that doesn't beat up bands cutting blanks but some people are rather "mean" to there blades cutting blanks. A cheaper alternative (~$12) is the Lenox Flexback in 3/8 x .025 3tpi with the hook/alternate set. The thinner gauge reduces the ability to really push on it but the HF saw is not going to have the horsepower to go fast so you will have to learn patience with tall blanks. The thinner gauge is probably a blessing for that saw anyway.

    What I am saying is I think you are already using the best blade for the saw and task. When you get a bigger saw with more tensioning ability and a faster blade speed then try the DM2 until then stick with carbon blades IMO. I understand the DM2 is attractive since it lasts so long and is thus more economical but it is not a good choice for the saw.

    BTW never store those Highlander blades together, as there can be only one. I couldn't resist, note it is Highland Woodworking that sells them (actually Highland Hardware) and normally it is called simply the Highland Woodturner blade.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  10. #70
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    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
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    I have no illusions that the HF 14" bandsaw is a precision piece of machinery nor that the one I have is the best one HF has sold. It was given to me because it's not a great example. Adding the riser block didn't do it any favors. That being said it does get the job done. I upgraded the motor to a 2hp Lesson I had and replaced the belts so now it has plenty of power. It does have some vibrations that balancing the wheels didn't cure. I'm assuming that it's the casting flexing some and you confirmed what I was thinking with your comments about the castings. I'm sure that I probably could figure out a way to stiffen it up but I don't want to spend much time on it. Trying to make it better is just going to be spending good money to find the next limitation. I know what it is and it can get the job done. Not knowing when I'll find something nicer, I almost bid on a Laguna LT24 that sold for $1400, I'm trying to use the HF to learn what works.

    That's for the advice. The Highlander blades are made by a company called Sterling. They seam plenty sharp and if I hadn't broken one it would still be cutting blanks and the spare still on the shelf. I'm not sure how hard cutting about 50 bowl blanks are on a blade (about when it broke) but I have 40 acres of woods and access to hundreds more. My plans are to be making lots of blanks so a good saw with the right blade is a must. It sounds like I'm better off waiting until I upgrade the saw before trying to find out which blade I like best.

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Zeller View Post
    Not knowing when I'll find something nicer, I almost bid on a Laguna LT24 that sold for $1400.

    It sounds like I'm better off waiting until I upgrade the saw before trying to find out which blade I like best.
    Go back in time and bid $1450 on that LT24!

    I actually have a soft spot for the HF 14" saw. It is like the dog in the farthest dark corner of a shelter with so many health problems it will take a small fortune to make sure it lives another year but... I am almost always against spending money on them except maybe a link belt that you can switch out before you sell it and making some hardwood guide blocks. If you have the time and inclination about 50% of them can be made into a decent saw for little money. I suggest spending little more than time on it and put any money you would have spent on it directly into the better bandsaw fund.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  12. #72
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    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
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    589
    Anyone have a link to where I can find 1/8" blades? Need 123" for my 16" Jet.

    Great thread btw.

  13. #73
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    Burlington, Washington
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    Highland Hardware has 1/8" bandsaw blades.

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Crawford View Post
    Anyone have a link to where I can find 1/8" blades? Need 123" for my 16" Jet.

    Great thread btw.
    Woodcraftbands (no connection to Woodcraft) is my source for small blades. In general, the best options for blades are companies that weld their own if not there is another middleman you have to pay. As much as I love Highland Hardware they are far from the most economical source for bandsaw blades.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  15. #75
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    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
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    589
    Thanks Van and David, I couldn't find anything smaller than 1/4" anywhere.

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