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Thread: 3d Engraving- Anybody seen or used this

  1. #1
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    3d Engraving- Anybody seen or used this

    Hi All,

    My name is Joe and I am new to laser engraving. I have an interest in 3d grayscale artwork and came across this site. If anyone can guide me a little to if this program really works it would appreciated.
    tetracebu.com/ness-cebu/LaserSimulator.html

    Thanks
    Joe
    Last edited by Keith Outten; 08-12-2010 at 9:36 PM.

  2. #2
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    Plenty of free programs will transform a grayscale image to a 3D file. With lasers (all except the cheap Chinese models), there's no need to do a conversion. All modern laser systems directly support 3D engraving with a grayscale image by modifying beam strength based upon grayscale level.
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  3. #3
    Joe, what is your laser model?

  4. #4
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    I have a Epilog Helix 40w

  5. #5
    As I remember you must have 3D option in driver (something like attached) - isn't it?
    I will post here two 3D files later today - try to output them on your laser and see result.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    I use the 3D function all the time. (as we speak, in fact) but my
    biggest problem with converting is that the programs can't distinguish
    between a shadow and a deeper cut. For a 3D effect that is fine. But
    to do relief, it isn't quite the same. It takes some tweaking and patience.
    But it can work great.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the info so far. I guess maybe I explained this wrong. I have tried to make 3d artwork, just small stuff and it's just not right. I do have the 3d option on my laser. I have read that is not really easy and being new it's really hard. I was thinking that this program would take my greyscale photo and convert it to a 3d file... nothing is that easy right? I have only been doing this for about 3 months now. I mainly do photography and custom cutting of PETG parts for pinball machines. I was just looking for something new to do.

    Joe

  8. #8
    Joe,

    Reading over this website, it looks as though this is just a simulation
    program. You first have to design the image file for 3d, getting the
    greyscales to a level that you think will engrave nicely, then instead
    of testing it on a laser (which could take quite a bit of time, even hours)
    you can run the 3d file through this program and it will give you a semi
    accurate rendition of what it would look like if you actually lasered it.

    This would save time and money as you could see flaws in the simulation
    and not wasting time doing test prototypes on the laser.

    If you have PhotoGrav or a similar photo-to-laser converting program
    they usually will have a simulator package with it, so you can see what
    a final product will look like and get client approval before you run it.

    You have to remember though, it is a simulation and it may vary in
    final output. That being said I still find it usefull.

    Hope this helps,

    Marty
    Martin Boekers

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  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Stone View Post
    I use the 3D function all the time. (as we speak, in fact) but my
    biggest problem with converting is that the programs can't distinguish
    between a shadow and a deeper cut. For a 3D effect that is fine. But
    to do relief, it isn't quite the same. It takes some tweaking and patience.
    But it can work great.
    Grayscale images are just that. For them to produce 3D reliefs, white needs to represent the highest z-axis point and black the lowest. Shades of gray for everything in between. This would not be a very visually appealing image in it's 2D representation. To do reliefs correctly, you should start out with a 3D model then convert to a grayscale bitmap using a program such as Artcam.
    I design, engineer and program all sorts of things.

    Oh, and I use Adobe Illustrator with an Epilog Mini.

  10. #10
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    Thanks everybody. I do appreciate the help and I'm sure glad I found this site.

    Joe

  11. #11
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    Ah, now I see... you need help with creating a properly grayscale-ized (yes, I just made that word up) image.

    In the next few weeks I hope to post a tutorial here on how to efficiently produce such a file (using Corel, though it will be possible in other packages). If I had more time lately, it would have been posted two weeks ago
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

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  12. #12
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    Dan that would be terrific. I hope I don't miss that post.

  13. #13
    attached promised 3D sample files.


    Sorry second file is bmp 570 kb which excess limits here - any ideas how share this file?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
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    Zip it...

    As a side note, JPG is the worst format to store grayscale depth maps... unless you're choosing very low compression levels, the errors build up along the block edges and create step discontinuities where you least want them.
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

    Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
    CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
    USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
    Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
    Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
    Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
    Delta 18-900L 18" drill press

    Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
    Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
    Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5

  15. #15
    My brains do not work - Friday and three weeks over 32C very unusual for our climate
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